Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 7, 2018 17:17:12 GMT -5
I've got an old blue SEZ Ut # 10010,Ser.# 92600567.The saw has great compression & when I took the muffler off to take a look at the piston & cylinder,it looked like new.When I got the saw the manual oil pump piston/rod was broken off & was missing the air filter bracket,air filter & air filter cover.I got all of those off feebay for a song.I noticed that the oil pump spring is not the same as the original spring.It seems that the original spring had no O ring & there is no groove on the shaft for one (shaft in spring).Even by putting the original spring back in,it still won't pump oil.I can't use the new spring & shaft because it catches on something inside.I went to take the oil line out of the tank to blow air in the line,but the oil filter came off & no matter how much I fish around in the tank with a hooked wire I can't snag the oil line to bring it out of the tank.Any ideas other than the big hammer?
|
|
|
Post by fossil on Mar 7, 2018 18:23:35 GMT -5
Not familiar with the manual oiler only EZ but isn't there a fitting screwed into the oil tank that the oil line is attached to?
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 7, 2018 19:45:02 GMT -5
No,there's a fitting in the airbox to the left of the carb.The push rod oiler is on the front of the saw,then insider is the fittings & assembly,then the line goes from there to the tank,the other line goes to the oiler pad.I don't believe that the oil hole in the pad is plugged because there was a slight amt.of oil coming from the hole on the pad.It's like the oiler can't prime.
|
|
|
Post by undee70ss on Mar 7, 2018 20:39:32 GMT -5
Is the check valve there? If missing or defective, oiler won’t work.
|
|
|
Post by fossil on Mar 7, 2018 21:00:24 GMT -5
Is the check valve there? If missing or defective, oiler won’t work. Either that or an air leak at a fitting.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 7, 2018 21:06:08 GMT -5
Where is the check valve located?Don't send me to a useless IPL,I can't make sense out of them especially with writing in the background.If you have a service manual for the SEZ like you did for the 150,that'd work fine.
As far as there being an air leak - I looked for that.When my 450 had an air leak it'd have air bubbles at the pad.It's just not priming.
|
|
|
Post by fossil on Mar 7, 2018 21:29:03 GMT -5
The right angle fitting in the carb box is the check valve as far as I can see from an IPL. It's worth putting a piece of hose on the valve to make sure it's working. Should be able to suck air but not blow back though it. Sometimes they get stuck with crud.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 8, 2018 0:17:28 GMT -5
I'm hoping that's the case - stuck with crud.I did put some WD40 in it to see if that'd loosen things up ,but I guess not.I don't see how that valve could be missing in there.That saw has been sitting for MANY yrs.,it has oil & dust on it that have hardened into stuff that almost had to be chiseled off the saw.Would Acetone/ATF 50/50 hurt the internals if I put some in the oil tank?
|
|
|
Post by undee70ss on Mar 8, 2018 2:23:22 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by undee70ss on Mar 8, 2018 2:24:01 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by sweepleader on Mar 8, 2018 8:01:21 GMT -5
The stuff undee posted above is very good, you will likely find the problem with that information.
Acetone is pretty aggressive, it will attack paint, rubber, and glue frequently. I try to only use it on bare metal. If you want to clean a tank with it, there is no need to add oil/ATF but I would suggest not leaving it in there too long. Put in enough to slosh around for a few minutes, dump and repeat. That will get out any chunks that are loose in there. I would not soak o-rings in it and I would dry out the tank before I put the cover back on. Tip the tank so the opening is down, the fumes will fall out, they are heavier than air. I have rigged a lightweight hose to a small blower that I stick in tanks to dry them. The blower does not have brushes and sparks.
|
|
|
Post by chainsawlady on Mar 8, 2018 12:54:01 GMT -5
I've got an old blue SEZ Ut # 10010,Ser.# 92600567.The saw has great compression & when I took the muffler off to take a look at the piston & cylinder,it looked like new.When I got the saw the manual oil pump piston/rod was broken off & was missing the air filter bracket,air filter & air filter cover.I got all of those off feebay for a song.I noticed that the oil pump spring is not the same as the original spring.It seems that the original spring had no O ring & there is no groove on the shaft for one (shaft in spring).Even by putting the original spring back in,it still won't pump oil.I can't use the new spring & shaft because it catches on something inside.I went to take the oil line out of the tank to blow air in the line,but the oil filter came off & no matter how much I fish around in the tank with a hooked wire I can't snag the oil line to bring it out of the tank.Any ideas other than the big hammer? I think the information about the SEZ blue and the UT10010 could be confusing. I can't remember a blue SEZ. No record of a blue SEZ. It must be an EZ. Also first EZ in the UT list is 10100 last year built 1974. Not 10010. chainsawlady
|
|
|
Post by sweepleader on Mar 8, 2018 14:10:51 GMT -5
UT and date (1979) both not fitting with EZ...
Could this be an Old Blue SXL?
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 8, 2018 18:18:57 GMT -5
Not an old blue SXL,it's way too small & light.Chainsaw lady is right,it a simple EZ. Since it's blue,I believe the mfgr.date is 1972.I must've forgotten one of the zeros on the UT #,it should be 100100.I'm still having great difficulty with getting this thing to oil.I can't take the fittings apart to check the check valve.I can't fish the oil line out of the tank either.This saw is about ready to get stripped & kicked to the curb.I though if I took the carb off then I'd have room to work - yeah right.I took the choke lever off,took the bolts out of the carb as far as I could get them,they CAN"T come out of the carb all the way.I have no idea where the gas line is supposed to come into the airbox & attach to the carb.There's no fitting on the carb for a fuel line to attach like a NORMAL carb.My patience is worn out right now,I have none left,time for the big hammer. 20180308_173931 by edju1958, on Flickr 20180308_173801 by edju1958, on Flickr 20180308_173749 by edju1958, on Flickr
|
|
|
Post by Clasec on Mar 8, 2018 19:37:20 GMT -5
I have an EZ like yours I will post a picture of the air box. Charles.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 8, 2018 20:12:21 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by Clasec on Mar 8, 2018 20:27:52 GMT -5
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 8, 2018 20:42:30 GMT -5
Yeah Charles,it looks just like mine,I think mine is a bit older though.At least now I know where the fuel line goes on the carb,but I have no fuel line coming in from the tank,there's no hole for it to come into the airbox either.Have you ever had your carb off to rebuild it?If so,how does it come off?I took the hi & lo speed needles out,disconnected the choke rod,& took out the carb bolts as far as they'd come toward the back of the airbox.That was as far as I got,then I got pissed & put it back together because it wouldn't come off.I couldn't figure out how to disconnect the throttle linkage.Maybe I get irritated too easily.
|
|
|
Post by Clasec on Mar 8, 2018 21:28:37 GMT -5
It's hard to tell from your pictures but is there a hole above the oil feed line where it enters the air box? Also you probably have to separate the carb from the reed block to remove it.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 8, 2018 23:19:10 GMT -5
I found the hole for the fuel line - it's under the oil lines.Talk about a stupid place to put the hole,you'd think it'd be above the oil lines for easy access,but so far they picked the wrong name for the saw.It might be super easy to start & operate,but it sure as hell isn't easy to work on or repair.The reason why I couldn't find out where the fuel line attached to the carb was because there was black residue left on the inlet & it looked like an adjustment screw.(yeah people go ahead & laugh) I had the carb separated from the reed block,but I couldn't get the carb to lift out.It's almost as if I've got to take the rear handle apart to get the carb off,or remove the airbox,then it MIGHT come off.But there's no way to remove the rear handle that I'm aware of unless I tear down the saw completely,& that doesn't make sense to me.Of courser the way a lot of these saws are put together doesn't make sense to me.I'm seriously thinking of getting rid of all the saws I bought over the last yr.& cut my losses while I'm ahead.I don't need the aggravation or the never ending costs involved.I thought I might ber able to supplement my income,but so far all I've done is buy parts.
|
|