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Post by sweepleader on Mar 10, 2018 19:25:06 GMT -5
The inlet check valve is pressed in, the outlet check valve is screwed in. I think this is correct, the outlet check unscrews. That appears to be shown in the sketch and the photos posted. It also appears that you would have some serious tear down to get enough room to unscrew it. I don't think I misunderstood what you said, just misunderstood that the spring and plunger were two different parts. I should not have use the word "plunger" in my post. I still suspect that the spring got stuck because the o-ring is not supposed to be on it so it is too large for the bore it goes in. It sure is tough to fix a saw over the net. |
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Post by Deleted on Mar 10, 2018 20:21:59 GMT -5
It is tough to fix a saw over the net,but t's the best we have,better than nothing at all.
As far as the outlet check valve,yeah,that'd be a bear to try to tear down.Let's keep our fingers crossed & hope the problem was only the inlet check valve.
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Post by Supercharged86 on Mar 11, 2018 14:26:04 GMT -5
This saw is a regular EZ, manufactured in '69, not a Super EZ. That decal and or cover is not original to the saw. |
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Post by Deleted on Mar 11, 2018 16:32:43 GMT -5
Yes,I knew that already.Chainsawlady pointed that out to me on the first page of this post.It was made on the 260th day of 1969,& the 567th unit made that day.
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Post by Supercharged86 on Mar 11, 2018 19:52:49 GMT -5
Yes,I knew that already.Chainsawlady pointed that out to me on the first page of this post.It was made on the 260th day of 1969,& the 567th unit made that day. Yeah right. Now it's offical. |
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Post by Deleted on Mar 11, 2018 20:43:01 GMT -5
Maybe you should try reading the entire thread from the beginning.
I'm sorry if this offended anyone,it was not intended to.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 14, 2018 17:58:08 GMT -5
Update - The oiler works again!
I bought another SEZ for a parts saw,so I took the inlet valver off that saw & put it on Oldf Blue.Then I reconnected the oil line & put the original spring back in with the newe plunger I had given to me.I tried it & nothing,so I thought maybe I should prime it with some WD40.It didn't want to work at first,I heard air bubbles at the pad,but I was persistent with that manual plunger.Next thing you know,lo & behold,it was gushing oil like it was meant to,then it quit again.I loosened the cap & it began oiling again.Now that oil cap is so old & such a different style that I don't believe I can get a replacement cap.I put a wire into the metal vent & pulled out what was like very stiff tar,so I sprayed some WD40 in it to help disolve & loosen that crud.There obviously must be an air vent on it somewhere because the WD40 leaks out.I'm afraid to put anything harsh in there for fear of melting something.
But regardless,I got the oiler working! The next thing to do is replace the fuel line & grommet & rebuild the carb.
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Post by fossil on Mar 14, 2018 21:05:39 GMT -5
Congrats!
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Post by Deleted on Mar 14, 2018 21:18:32 GMT -5
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Post by onlyhomelites on Mar 14, 2018 21:43:52 GMT -5
Ed you can pull the aluminum tube out of the cap and replace the duckbill valve that belongs in there.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 14, 2018 23:18:33 GMT -5
Ed you can pull the aluminum tube out of the cap and replace the duckbill valve that belongs in there. Will do! |
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Post by Deleted on Mar 16, 2018 12:43:36 GMT -5
Ed you can pull the aluminum tube out of the cap and replace the duckbill valve that belongs in there. Will do! I've tried like hell to get that aluminum tube out of the cap,it's not budging on either cap.The aluminum is shredding because it's soft.I was using a needle nose pliers.Any other ideas? |
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Post by onlyhomelites on Mar 16, 2018 14:27:33 GMT -5
Needle nose vise grips have never failed me...I've never tried regular needle nose pliers and now I never will!
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Post by Deleted on Mar 16, 2018 15:13:03 GMT -5
I did manage to get the aluminum tubes out with a small regular vise grips on the gas cap,but there was no way to do it other than the needle nose pliers on the oil cap,there was no clearance to put the jaws in there.Now I sprayed some PB in there & the goo dissolved & I tucked a rag in there & got all the residue out.I can blow through it just fine,but it goes through slowly.Do I still need to put a duck bill valve in there?I don't see how that valve will fit into that hole & the aluminum tube over the top of it,or will the aluminum tube be replaced by the duck bill?
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Post by fossil on Mar 16, 2018 18:19:30 GMT -5
The valve goes into the aluminum tube. The flange on the valve is against the cap and is jammed in there with the tube. It's important that the valve is jammed against the cap so air will only pass through the valve into the tank and not out.  |
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Post by Deleted on Mar 18, 2018 18:34:36 GMT -5
While waiting for parts to come in for this saw I figured I'd make good use of my time & rebuild the carb today - yeah right.It's got an HDC in it.I cleaned & scraped the old gasket off the base of the carb,man was that gasket glued on there!.It was just age that caused it to do that.Back to the carb,I got the outer covers off with no problem,the problem I've got s that I can't get the metering plate off.I've tried just about everything I can think of without destroying the carb.I sprayed WD40 in t,I pried on it with an ice pick,I gave it some sharp taps with a hammer all around the edge,I put a ratchet extension on the plate & tapped on it - nothing.So I've been told that if something like this happens to soak it in Coca Cola.Supposedly the beverage will dissolve what's causing t to seize together,it can't hurt.I don't want to use Acetone & ATF on it because there might be internals that could be harmed by it.God only knows the last time this saw ran,it's dated 1969,so I'm figuring around 40 yrs.Everything on the saw was starting to sieze - the check valve,the chan,the carb,& the grommets are turned to goo as well as the duck bills.I can't wait to make this baby pop.
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Post by fossil on Mar 18, 2018 19:37:40 GMT -5
While waiting for parts to come in for this saw I figured I'd make good use of my time & rebuild the carb today - yeah right.It's got an HDC in it.I cleaned & scraped the old gasket off the base of the carb,man was that gasket glued on there!.It was just age that caused it to do that.Back to the carb,I got the outer covers off with no problem,the problem I've got s that I can't get the metering plate off.I've tried just about everything I can think of without destroying the carb.I sprayed WD40 in t,I pried on it with an ice pick,I gave it some sharp taps with a hammer all around the edge,I put a ratchet extension on the plate & tapped on it - nothing.So I've been told that if something like this happens to soak it in Coca Cola.Supposedly the beverage will dissolve what's causing t to seize together,it can't hurt.I don't want to use Acetone & ATF on it because there might be internals that could be harmed by it.God only knows the last time this saw ran,it's dated 1969,so I'm figuring around 40 yrs.Everything on the saw was starting to sieze - the check valve,the chan,the carb,& the grommets are turned to goo as well as the duck bills.I can't wait to make this baby pop. Hi Ed, Are you sure it's an HDC and not an SDC carb? The SDC would be quite a bit larger. If it is an SDC and has an accelerator pump on it, I doubt they give you a diaphragm for that in the kit so don't take it apart unless you feel you have to. If you do, there should be a gasket for pump. |
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Post by Deleted on Mar 18, 2018 19:57:34 GMT -5
Yeah Tim,it's an HDC carb,says so right on the carb,almost identical to the carb on the 150.The only difference is shorter adjustment needles & different choke connector,& the only reason those two things were different is because there was a difference in the models.I think all the Sez's had HDC's in them.If you check out my thread to identify a carb about 3 weeks ago before I put my carb kit order in,I believe Leon pointed that out over the run of the SEZ's they all used HDC's in them.
The SDC's were typically used in bigger saws like the XL-12's & SXL's & SXLAO's.I'm sure there were other models that used the SDC's as well,those three saws were just off the top of my head.
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Post by fossil on Mar 18, 2018 20:48:04 GMT -5
Yeah Tim,it's an HDC carb,says so right on the carb,almost identical to the carb on the 150.The only difference is shorter adjustment needles & different choke connector,& the only reason those two things were different is because there was a difference in the models.I think all the Sez's had HDC's in them.If you check out my thread to identify a carb about 3 weeks ago before I put my carb kit order in,I believe Leon pointed that out over the run of the SEZ's they all used HDC's in them. The SDC's were typically used in bigger saws like the XL-12's & SXL's & SXLAO's.I'm sure there were other models that used the SDC's as well,those three saws were just off the top of my head. That's interesting as the IPL I can reference says SDC. There are many IPL's that aren't floating around the internet though. |
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Post by onlyhomelites on Mar 18, 2018 22:02:12 GMT -5
That must be a misprint Tim...the SDC is physically too big to even fit the carburetor chamber on an EZ.
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