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Post by fossil on Mar 18, 2018 22:05:32 GMT -5
That must be a misprint Tim...the SDC is physically too big to even fit the carburetor chamber on an EZ. No misprint there. More like a brain furt here, I thought Ed was talking about his 101. Duh On that note, time for bed.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 19, 2018 19:39:04 GMT -5
While waiting for parts to come in I decided yesterday to rebuild the carb for the old blue EZ.As I posted earlier,the plate was stuck.I soaked it in Coca Cola for about 20 hrs.still nothing.So now out comes the big guns - brake cleaner.I let it soak in brake cleaner for a couple hrs.& I got results.The plate finally started to lift,but I had to battle all the way.When the plate came off,the gasket was still stuck in the carb,so it took me 2 hrs.to clean every bit of gasket out of the carb & make sure all those tiny ports were open.What a pain in the donkey! The saw was made in 1969 & I swear it's been sitting pretty much since 1970,but it's almost all back together now,all freshly rebuilt.I'm amazed that the saw fired when I squirted fuel into the carb awhile back.With all the parts I've had to get for this little bugger,cost of saw $15,Air filter cover,air filter,bracket & screws & manual plunger & spring $15,fuel filter $2,fuel line & grommet $7,duckbills $3 =$42tl.I might need a spark plug too.Not bad for a little old beast.Oops,I forgot the carb kit $4 = $46tl.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 31, 2018 20:06:08 GMT -5
All that work & it won't fire.I finally got my fuel filters yesterday,so today I put the lines on & the filter in,what a job!.I took it out to the garage & primed it - no fire.So I checked for spark - no spark.I checked the coil - it's dead,reads 5.05 ohms.I can't win to go to hell.I just threw it in the heap with all the other dead saws.I don't understand how the saw fired two months ago when I primed it & now it's dead.I must check to see what make coil is on the saw - Phelon or Wico.My luck it's Wico,there are none to be found,plenty of Phelons though.Here are a couple of pics.I hope someone can iderntify it whether it's Phelon or Wico.I didn't see any writing on it.The flyweheel only said W.Massachusetts on it. 20180331_231628 by edju1958, on Flickr 20180331_231612 by edju1958, on Flickr
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Post by onlyhomelites on Apr 1, 2018 7:58:53 GMT -5
Well it looks Wico to me, but the flywheel will be marked on top...probably just under decades of crud. If you had spark a few months ago, it is odd that it wouldn't fire now. I'd recheck the points and clean the contacts before junking the coil.
The other thing I've found useful for diagnosis is one of the little aftermarket ignition modules that replaces the points and condenser. I keep one near the bench so that I can quickly hook it up to test a coil. I just spin the engine over with my drill to check for spark, that way I don't have to spend time reassembling a starter.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 1, 2018 9:26:23 GMT -5
I put my meter on it last night & got a very strange reading - 13.52?When I unscrewed the lead it had an oil-like substance on it.The coil was so full of grime that I'm surprised it fired back in Jan.Now I've heard that when a coil is gone bad that the plastic substance on the back of the coil will have "bubbles"in it,I don't know how true that is.My coil has no "bubbles on the backside.I've cleaned the coil up & I'm thinking of putting it back on the saw,maybe it only needed to have the coil re-gapped?I don't understand how the points can be good one second & then suddenly not be good the next.Of course I'm still learning the trade here.I recently bought myself a good set of feeler gauges & a points file.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 1, 2018 12:11:30 GMT -5
Can’t help but notice you seem to be having a fair amount of coil problems and with that I see you are coming up with a great variance of readings sometimes even on the same coil. A coil can be tricky to figure out but there are numerous posts here with different ways of testing. One thing I’ve noticed, and this is likely due to the difference in meters, a good coil according to most should read between 7K and 9k ohms. The K is important as there is a huge difference in 8 ohms and 8k ohms but again that can vary on meter settings but it is important to understand the difference. If you have 70 plus old saws a good quality meter would seem to imperative to own. The cost of a good meter could be the same as 2 or 3 good coils thrown away with the thoughts of being bad.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 1, 2018 13:14:09 GMT -5
WE've been through this before.When I say that my reading is (for example) 7.65,that is meant to be 7,650 ohms,I thought that was a give me.I don't believe that I've given two different readings on the same coil.I did some reading last night,& a multimeter is virtually useless no matter how much money one spends on it.I bought a meter that was recommended by either you or another member here (TIF analog) a couple of months ago.All of these saws I bought for a song ($15 ea.) A lot of them had little wrong with them,others needed perhaps a coil,that's probably why the owner decided to get rid of them,especially if the saw went down anywhere from 1999 - 2004 because a lot of the Homelite dealers used what they had in stock & others just closed their doors entirely,leaving the Homelite owner with no place to turn for parts until Ebay came along.There are parts out there,but just as it was back when Homelite closed up shop,at what price is someone willing to pay.I've had four saws turn out with bad coils - Xp-1000,XL-101,SEZ (ignition module,one I brought back to life by baking it,the other is dead),EZ,XL-123.I had another Jonsered 361 that I bought back in Dec.off Ebay knowing that it had a dead ignition module,I replaced it & now the saw runs.I have four more saws to check coils on - two Frontier Mark I's,a Pioneer 1074,& a McCulloch 120.It's much easier to check a coil than it is to pull a flywheel & check the points.If the coil tests below 7,000 ohms,then I assume it's no good.If the coil checks out good,then I move on to the points & then condenser.Go back & read my posts & tell mer when you're finished reading them how inconsistent my readings are.The only reading that has me confused is this last one that was taken off the EZ.I cleaned it all up last night & now I'll pop the flywheel to examine the points.I don't like points & condenser - they're outdated,they always need to be attended to, be replaced,or adjusted.I'll put an ignition chip in the saw & be done with it.Now everyone knows where I stand on coils & ignition systems.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 1, 2018 13:41:54 GMT -5
I’m sure I missed your interpretation of. 7 k ohms somewhere along the line I guess you could look at it as more of a clarification for me. I think that’s probably why the standard is to shorthand 7,000 as 7K reduces any confusion as that kinda reading difference quite important when troubleshooting electronic and electrical components. No need to wade through post as several tend to stray from topic anyway as nothing I said was meant to be argumentative. However I did run across one where you mentioned selling off and cutting losses. Please post pics and prices if you do I might be interested in a few😁
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Post by Deleted on Apr 1, 2018 15:58:42 GMT -5
It's an idea that I've been tossing around John.I'm just not having verry god luck at what I'd like to have as far as results go.I've had a very tough week for reasons that I'd rather not get into as of yet.I told one member here & asked him to keep it in confidence,which he has,& I commend him for it.I tend to want to quit the aggravating factors when I'm trying to cope.I'm sorry if I got offensive in my last post.I'm trying to learn things here & I'm just not grasping things at times.This is a hobby that I'm finding out can be very expensive & I have limited funds.When I picked up thirty plus saws three months ago I thought it'd be a money making situation,I'm finding out quite the contrary.The other factor involved here is that people have the misconception that we can't get parts anymore for our Homelites.That makes it difficult to try to sell a saw.I'm just not having a very good success rate at anything I do.
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Post by onlyhomelites on Apr 2, 2018 14:17:31 GMT -5
Okay, I've had messages from numerous members about the turn this topic has taken and the universal concern is the aggressive/angry tone of one response above. I've struggled with how to respond to this, whether to state something here or do it in private. I've settled on the latter and am now going to lock this thread.
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