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Post by rowdy235 on May 31, 2008 18:19:17 GMT -5
Need some help with this saw. Bought it for five bucks and I am in dire need of some info.
If somebody has a manual, please let me know.
1) The saw had some bad gas in it, it won't idle even with fresh gas. I'm planning to rebuild the carb, any tips?
2) I've been told to run 32:1 Mix. I always run 50:1, is it crucial?
3) What plug?
4) I thought it had a manual oiler, but now I found out its automatic? What the heck?
5) The clutch looks to be in bad shape and is pretty much constantly engaged. Where can I get a replacement?
Thanks all.
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Post by hawtsawz on May 31, 2008 21:08:54 GMT -5
Welcome Rowdy!
Try tweaking the low idle open about half turn and try starting with fresh mix. I have found this to work sometimes. I would also check the fuel lines and spark before rebuilding the carb. 32:1 is what you should run. You won't have to worry about the piston burning up. Your saw should have the manual oiler to the left of the throttle handle if it is the Super EZ Auto. DJ6J plug for spark. There should be some help from this site on a clutch for you. Hope this helps! ;D
Hawtsawz
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Post by rowdy235 on May 31, 2008 21:55:58 GMT -5
yes it helps very much! Did a redneck carb rebuild (ie take apart WD-40 and compressed air it), so I'll try tomorrow. I cleaned out the gas tank after finding it was full of gunk. I cleaned it with some seafoam and bb's. I got one of those plugs to throw in there tomorrow. I also blew out the fuel lines and filter, they all flowed good.
What I was asking about the oiler was is it automatic with a manual backup or a different system?
Priced clutches and found a new clutch to be around 25 bucks. Provided it runs, is the saw worth this much money? Is it a good saw?
Oh and you guys may think I'm stupid but do these saws have any type of anti-vibe? If not they need it, if yes mine needs a new one. Had it running for under a minute and it shook me half to death.
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Post by SkiPro on May 31, 2008 22:50:21 GMT -5
Homelite recommends a 16:1 gas/oil mix for the Super EZ Automatic. There are no anti-vibration isolators on the Super EZ. It has an automatic oil pump located beneath the clutch and a manual oiller located on he left side of the throttle handle. Look on ebay for a clutch if you want to save $$$. Be aware that there are different clutches for the Super EZ.
Some will argue (including me) that the Super EZ is one of the best chainsaws in its class ever built.
Hope this helps.
SkiProIII
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Post by chainsawwhisperer on Jun 1, 2008 6:45:55 GMT -5
Hi Rowdy, welcome to the site. You mentioned that the clutch on your saw as constantly engaged. A seized clutch bearing will do that (seized with either rust or just hardened up grease) If you can't or if it's difficult to turn the chain when the saw is off, it might just be the bearing. If you can turn the chain when the saw is off, but as soon as you start the saw the chain is engaged, that sounds more like a weak or damaged clutch spring. 5 bucks was a great deal for that saw even if you have to put a couple of bucks into it. Good luck. CSW Her's mine: .  |
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Post by rowdy235 on Jun 1, 2008 11:09:09 GMT -5
You are correct about it being difficult to turn the chain with the saw off. But the problem is I cannot see any springs on mine, leading me to believe something has been removed. Also mine is not the "S" style, its more like an "I" style. Thanks for all your help!
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Post by rowdy235 on Jun 1, 2008 13:51:31 GMT -5
Alright guys need some carb help. Fresh gas and cleaned out fuel system did nothing. Its still doing the same dang thing. It'll run great as long as its at full throttle or near it, but let off of it and the thing dies. How do you adjust the carburetor (walbro hdc)?
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Post by OBR on Jun 1, 2008 15:07:21 GMT -5
Coincidently, I just got done working on an HDC that was on a Mac. Start by turning both jets in until they are lightly seated, then back each one back out one full turn. also make sure your idle speed screw is open wide enough to allow it to idle. This should allow the saw to run fairly well, well enough for you to dial it in more accurately. That is provided everything is ok internally (i.e. the diaphram is pliable and all) good luck
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Post by rowdy235 on Jun 1, 2008 16:57:10 GMT -5
well I adjusted it that way and still no idle. I guess I'll have to get a new plug and try again.
Also, is there a gasket that goes around the bottom of the gas cap? Cause mine leaks when you tilt the saw.
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Post by OBR on Jun 1, 2008 18:08:44 GMT -5
Ok Rowdy,
You adjusted the carb as I said, is the saw not running at all or just not idling? This will help us figure out what exactly is wrong with the saw. I guess I have two thoughts, if not running at all then maybe the diaphram is toast, if not idling perhaps the low speed jetting is clogged. Let me know on the running cond. and maybe I can help more.
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Post by rowdy235 on Jun 1, 2008 22:02:39 GMT -5
Just not idling. Runs good, just will not idle period. Also now there appears to be a gas leak at the carburetor. I think I'm going to grab me a carb repair kit and see where it goes. You can tell obviously at idle for some reason the saw does not get fuel. Any suggestions?
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Post by rowdy235 on Jun 1, 2008 22:23:53 GMT -5
Just cause I knew you wanted them, here are some pics   And here is my clutch, I'm pretty sure somethings wrong  Oh and PS, I thought I had a breakthrough that maybe the drag of the chain was causing it to die at idle, but no luck, it still dies at idle even with the chain removed. |
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Post by billg on Jun 2, 2008 0:11:36 GMT -5
I am looking at the picture of the clutch and just shaking my head.  I think that might be a problem. Bill |
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Post by rowdy235 on Jun 2, 2008 0:20:53 GMT -5
yep, same thing I did when I bought the saw. Anybody give me a link to a new clutch? And, to clarify, it does unscrew, right?
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Post by billg on Jun 2, 2008 0:39:50 GMT -5
Well yes it should unscrew but with that convuluted mess who knows what the last guy did. Is that a spot of weld on the crank? I am a fan of the SEZ but I think you may be chasing your tail for too long on this one.
Bill
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Post by rowdy235 on Jun 2, 2008 9:11:43 GMT -5
no, thats not a spot weld. It just looks like one in the pic for some reason, if you look close, you can see where the crankshaft is not welded to the clutch. I figure with only $5 invested, I'm doing pretty well, so I'll keep on tinkering. I'd rather not send this saw to the scrap heap.
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Post by hawtsawz on Jun 2, 2008 15:08:11 GMT -5
For the price of a carb kit it is well worth a rebuild. By the sounds of things its flooding somewhere. It takes some very fine adjustments and alot of patience for these little carbs. Just take your time and you'll have one great performing saw! As far as the clutch goes, there are alot of second hand ones out there.
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Post by rowdy235 on Jun 2, 2008 18:46:36 GMT -5
Well I pulled the clutch off today (like it was doing much good anyway), and found a website with the clutch I need on it, but I had to fill up my truck today so its a no go for now. Any suggestions on anything else guys? This site is the best!
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Post by billg on Jun 2, 2008 22:13:17 GMT -5
Well I pulled the clutch off today (like it was doing much good anyway), and found a website with the clutch I need on it, but I had to fill up my truck today so its a no go for now. Any suggestions on anything else guys? This site is the best! My suggestion would be to buy another SEZ and use this one for spares. I may be the only one but I would really wonder what that clutch did to the crank bearings. Bill |
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Post by rowdy235 on Jun 2, 2008 22:53:51 GMT -5
Am I missing something about the clutch here? Sure it was a mess but it obviously got the job done. What was so wrong with it? And if I ever come across another SEZ, I'll be sure to grab it up. For now its all I got, and I'm ordering a new clutch and carb kit tomorrow.
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I think that might be a problem.