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Post by rowdy235 on Jun 3, 2008 22:05:50 GMT -5
talked to the saw shop today and the guy told me
"You can't get any parts for a homelite, we don't even work on them"
So I figured, if he doesn't want my business, he sure as **** ain't getting it. So I went to napa and ordered a carb kit, it should be here tomorrow or thursday. I'm going to have to get the clutch offline, should be around $ 30 shipped.
While I'm waiting for that, does anybody know how the fuel cap sealed originally? Mine leaks, I was just going to grab a o-ring of the right size and give 'er a shot. Sound good? Any Suggestions?
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Post by billg on Jun 4, 2008 1:05:18 GMT -5
The carb kit should be $4.95 from NAPA. When you get the clutch post a pic.
Bill
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Post by rowdy235 on Jun 4, 2008 9:23:46 GMT -5
thanks bill, will do.
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Post by RBW on Jun 4, 2008 10:48:24 GMT -5
Hi Rowdy!!! DOOOOONT order that clutch yet!!! I may have the one you need, In fact I probably do and can save you lots of $$. Bill is shaking his head cause that is the wrong clutch for that saw, plus the springs look to be missing. The SEZ is an excellent saw and is one of my favorites. As long as your cranks not damaged from that bastardised clutch arraingment itll probably be a good runner as their tough to kill. You may have to pop for a new clutch drum if that is not the correct one as the S clutch will not put up with much expansion if its too big, itll just break. I also highly recommend getting a can of good carb cleaner as WD will not cut the gum well enough to clean out the teeny tiny low speed passages. Some of these are as fine as a pin and without the power of the carb cleaner (and sometimes even with it) their very hard to clean out. Let me have yout saws UT# and Ill look for the clutch, Im sure I have one or maybe even one dozen. ;D Eric edit* I mighe even have your fuel cap seal.
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Post by rowdy235 on Jun 4, 2008 18:20:53 GMT -5
sounds great, Ut # 104313, if you could shoot me a pm on those parts shipped to 97386, that'd be great.
I checked the crank, no play at all, solid as a rock. I don't think it'll be a problem.
I'm waiting on the carb kit as napa had to order it from Atlanta, so it'll be next week. I got some seafoam to soak the carb in and to blow the jets clean with, will this do the job?
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Post by RBW on Jun 4, 2008 22:32:20 GMT -5
Ill check the UT# and send you a PM.
Im not a big fan of soaking. It can work, but if theres a long passage fill of crud it can take forever. I have a set of torch tip cleaning wires and I use these along with carb cleaner to get into those trouble spots.
Soaking in the Carb dip works (Berrymans), but im not sure about seafoam.
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Post by rowdy235 on Jun 4, 2008 22:54:41 GMT -5
I got a set of those torch tips too, thanks for the tip. I've always used seafoam in that manner with good results, so I'll do it again. I also used a bit of compressed air to git 'r done
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Post by billg on Jun 5, 2008 1:37:10 GMT -5
Just my opinion but if that saw was ran with that clutch setup I think the unbalance would have done a real number on the saw. Once again just my opinion but buying another complete SEZ for $25-$35 would be money well spent. You do realize the ignition modules are $80 plus and yours is presumably good. Trust me paitence in this case will pay off. Be paitent and get another saw
Bill
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Post by rowdy235 on Jun 7, 2008 23:20:20 GMT -5
hey RBW, ya ever find out about those parts? No rush, but the carb kit should be here this week and I'd like to have the proper clutch. Thanks again.
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Post by pasta1 on Jun 9, 2008 21:20:49 GMT -5
THAT IS DEFINITELY SOME ABORTION OF A CLUTCH. THE THREADS ON THE CLUTCH ARE LEFT HAND THREADS. YOU MUST UNSCREW THE CLUTCH IN A CLOCKWISE DIRECTION. THE PICTURE IS VERY BLURRY, BUT IF THERE IS ANY WELD BETWEEN THE CLUTCH AND THE CRANKSHAFT, THEN THIS MUST BE GROUND OFF COMPLETELY BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO REMOVE THE CLUTCH. THE CORRECT CLUTCH FOR THE UT 104313 IS AN S TYPE CLUTCH - PART NO. 68362. ONCE YOU GET THE CLUTCH OFF, THROW IT BACK IN THE DUMPSTER AND INSTALL A NEW CLUTCH WITH A WORKING BEARING. MICHAEL
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Post by rowdy235 on Jun 9, 2008 22:20:40 GMT -5
Well I pulled the clutch off today (like it was doing much good anyway), and found a website with the clutch I need on it
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Post by RBW on Jun 9, 2008 22:41:12 GMT -5
hey RBW, ya ever find out about those parts? No rush, but the carb kit should be here this week and I'd like to have the proper clutch. Thanks again. Yep, PM comin atcha.
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Post by rowdy235 on Jun 10, 2008 22:49:32 GMT -5
Well looks like I'm getting a new clutch, and the carb kit should be here soon. (yay me)
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Post by rowdy235 on Jun 11, 2008 23:49:36 GMT -5
quick question, the carb gasket, like where the carb mounts, does that require any sealant? I made a new gasket after searching all over for one to replace my wore out one, and am wondering if I need sealant or I can just put it together. Thanks.
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Post by chainsawwhisperer on Jun 12, 2008 6:23:49 GMT -5
Rowdy, you shouldn't need any sealant on the gasket, especially if the gasket material is new. There's always a chance that the sealer could get into the pulse port and plug it. Plus, if you use sealer, next time you remove the carb you will be making a new gasket (gasket will be destroyed on carb removal) If your worried about an air leak, when its running, CAREFULLY spray some WD-40 ('cough' carb cleaner 'cough') around the carb gasket, and see if the idle changes But with new material you should not have a problem.
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Post by rowdy235 on Jun 12, 2008 10:58:53 GMT -5
Okay, just checking cause it looked kind of like the PO had used, like, glue to seal it. Anyway, I got the carb and in inlet cleaned up and I traced out the gasket design, now I just have to cut it. So, I should put nothing on the gasket before bolting the carb in, correct?
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Post by RBW on Jun 12, 2008 22:41:27 GMT -5
Yep, as long as your using a good gasket material it will be fine. Just remove any resudue of whatever glue like substance they used and bolt het up.
What CSW mentioned is gospel, the sealent will find the pulse port and monkey up the works every time.
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Post by rowdy235 on Jun 13, 2008 1:05:01 GMT -5
yep, cleaned it off good with some carb cleaner. Carb is soaking tonight, tomorrow is day one of the fixing process.
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Post by rowdy235 on Jun 13, 2008 23:17:06 GMT -5
Fixing Day One, here is the saw as it sat when I started, clutchless, carbless, and plugless. First order of business, new plug. My camera is picky about lighting so you can't really tell but the old plug was in bad shape. Alright, lets see what we have in the way of new parts. Still waiting on my new clutch, but I got this kit along with gasket material and some carb cleaner. The next part is hard to get pictures of, besides I was too busy. I will say the carb rebuild is really straightforward. The only problem I encountered is the kit had two styles of one of the gaskets. I wasn't sure if they stacked or were for different models, a quick look at the diagram showed it was the latter. One thing I would emphasize is to carb cleaner and compressed air all passages, every one! Here is the carb tore apart Here is the finished carburetor Okay, that takes care of that, but one thing still remained. A new gasket for the carb. Given, I could have ran the old one and it maybe would have worked. However, I do not want to take chances at this point in the game. So, I looked at a replacement gasket. Napa quoted me $2.99 + $8 freight, and it would take 2 weeks. No thank you, not for a gasket. So I bought some material and cut my own out using the old gasket as a template. It fits perfect and I hope it will work well too. Here are the old and new. By the way, that is the rough cut of the gasket, I trimmed it quite a bit before installing it, rest assured, all of the holes lined up, and it sat flat. Okay, rebuilt carb, new gasket, and all went back together in the saw. When I get my new clutch, you'll see that part of the repair too. Also my creative gas tank fix. Any suggestions or comments are welcome ;D
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Post by RBW on Jun 17, 2008 22:12:50 GMT -5
Lookin good Mang!! You should have the clutch soon if you dont have it already.
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