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Post by Deleted on Jan 24, 2018 20:41:53 GMT -5
I went to my local chainsaw dealer today & picked up 20 more Homelites.They're mostly XL-12's Super XL's & SEZ's.I also got 1 ea.of the Solo's,a 290 & a 340.There was one BIG saw that just kinda stood out all by itself - a XP Woodmaster.This saw has a good size bar on it,at least 24 in.with a .404 chain that's almost new.I went on Mike Acres' site & found no listing for it.It's an old saw,maybe from the very early 60's,maybe even late 50's.I'll try to get pics up tomorrow.I noticed that the recoil when pulled didn't catch on anything,so I took the recoil off & did some investigation.It seems for some reason that because something was beginning to set up in the engine that the recoil wouldn't catch on anything.I started working the flywheel over with a ratchet on it & same on the other side with the sprocket.I got it to turn over eventually,but it wants to "catch"& bind a bit.There was no plug in it,but I shined a light in the cylinder before I did anything & saw no rust.I can't tell if it has any spark because the end of the plug wire is missing where it attaches to the plug,& I'm not about to grab a hold of the bare wire while turning it over.The fuel line was totally dry rotted & disintegrated when I touched it.Also there's no air filter cover for it,but it had a filter on it.Anything I saw on Mike's site that had XP on it was a 100 cc.saw.Of course once again there are no tags on it.  20180125_170449 by edju1958, on Flickr  20180125_170433 by edju1958, on Flickr  20180125_170403 by edju1958, on Flickr  20180125_170330 by edju1958, on Flickr |
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Post by Deleted on Jan 24, 2018 20:53:36 GMT -5
I went to my local chainsaw dealer today & picked up 20 more Homelites.They're mostly XL-12's Super XL's & SEZ's.I also got 1 ea.of the Solo's,a 290 & a 340.There was one BIG saw that just kinda stood out all by itself - a XP Woodmaster.This saw has a good size bar on it,at least 24 in.with a .404 chain that's almost new.I went on Mike Acres' site & found no listing for it.It's an old saw,maybe from the very early 60's,maybe even late 50's.I'll try to get pics up tomorrow.I noticed that the recoil when pulled didn't catch on anything,so I took the recoil off & did some investigation.It seems for some reason that because something was beginning to set up in the engine that the recoil wouldn't catch on anything.I started working the flywheel over with a ratchet on it & same on the other side with the sprocket.I got it to turn over eventually,but it wants to "catch"& bind a bit.There was no plug in it,but I shined a light in the cylinder before I did anything & saw no rust.I can't tell if it has any spark because the end of the plug wire is missing where it attaches to the plug,& I'm not about to grab a hold of the bare wire while turning it over.The fuel line was totally dry rotted & disintegrated when I touched it.Also there's no air filter cover for it,but it had a filter on it.Anything I saw on Mike's site that had XP on it was a 100 cc.saw.Of course once again there are no tags on it. Cant wait to see pics |
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Post by lesorubcheek on Jan 24, 2018 21:44:57 GMT -5
Yea, XPs were 100cc. First was the XP 1000, then XP 1020. Well, actually, I think the 1100 gear drive may have been referred to as an XP too, but maybe not. I know early 1130 gear drives were referred to as XPs. Many of the direct drive XPs had Power Master printed on 'em at least the ones with manual oilers. 1020s had a plain 1020, Super, Auto, and Super Auto variations. Can't remember is all of them were designated XP or not. Next step was 1050, and pretty sure they'd dropped the XP name by then. Guess the marketing gurus decided it'd played out it's usefulness.
Dan
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Post by Deleted on Jan 24, 2018 22:14:37 GMT -5
Yea, XPs were 100cc. First was the XP 1000, then XP 1020. Well, actually, I think the 1100 gear drive may have been referred to as an XP too, but maybe not. I know early 1130 gear drives were referred to as XPs. Many of the direct drive XPs had Power Master printed on 'em at least the ones with manual oilers. 1020s had a plain 1020, Super, Auto, and Super Auto variations. Can't remember is all of them were designated XP or not. Next step was 1050, and pretty sure they'd dropped the XP name by then. Guess the marketing gurus decided it'd played out it's usefulness. Dan Do you know which XP saws were manual oilers and which ones were auto oilers? Thanks |
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Post by undee70ss on Jan 25, 2018 1:41:51 GMT -5
Do you know which XP saws were manual oilers and which ones were auto oilers? Thanks Go to the spec sheets, they will tell you. |
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Post by sweepleader on Jan 25, 2018 7:14:22 GMT -5
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Post by Deleted on Jan 25, 2018 20:54:23 GMT -5
Nice saw, glad you added the pics, but you might want to add them on a new thread, no one probably gets notified of the pictures you added, hence why I'm mentioning it so people can now scroll up after reading this.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 25, 2018 21:12:10 GMT -5
Pics are up on the "mystery saw".I believde it's an XP-1000.
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Post by lesorubcheek on Jan 25, 2018 21:15:44 GMT -5
Based on no muffler shield and no empty hole in the air box where the top would attach (shields can be missing), my guess is it's an XP-1000. Definitely a manual oiler only with that clutch cover shield style.
Dan
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Post by lesorubcheek on Jan 25, 2018 21:18:11 GMT -5
Shucks... I'm 3 minutes too slow.  . I second Edju's assessment. Dan |
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Post by tjthechainsawmech on Jan 25, 2018 22:30:17 GMT -5
Nice!
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Post by Deleted on Jan 26, 2018 0:17:49 GMT -5
Yeah,this one's definitely gonna be a complete teardown.When I go to turn it over with a ratchet on the drive sprocket nut it wants to spin freely for a half turn,then it binds up & VERY hard to turn the other half.Plus,I'm missing the air filter cover & the retaining nut.It has a 29 in.bar & a .404 chain that has seen little use.If I ever can get it fired up,it'll be a bear & a cub together as one - 100 cc.'s of pure power (Tim Allen grunt).
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Post by tjthechainsawmech on Jan 26, 2018 0:39:59 GMT -5
Could be the coil hitting the flywheel if you are lucky and if that's an externally mounted coil.....I'm to used to the fix mount coils under the flywheels of the older homelites. haha
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Post by Deleted on Jan 26, 2018 8:12:08 GMT -5
Could be the coil hitting the flywheel if you are lucky and if that's an externally mounted coil.....I'm to used to the fix mount coils under the flywheels of the older homelites. haha pretty sure its a fixed coil under the flywheel |
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Post by Deleted on Jan 26, 2018 15:16:14 GMT -5
What do you mean by a"fixed coil"?The coil is definitely under the flywheel,& I'm pretty sure it's hitting & binding against the f;ywheel.I took the muffler off earlier & examined the piston & cylinder.There's absoplutely no scoring there,but the rings may be seized on the piston from sitting.There's very little sawdust & grime on the saw as what happens with older saws that have been used extensively.This saw was used very little.IO think I can revive her if I can get the flywheel off.
That's the question of the day - how does one take the flywheel off this saw?There's no nut holding the flywheel on,it looks like the flywheel is screwed on,but that doesn't make sense because there should be a Woodruff key in there,or is this somehow a different style that I've not seen before?The carb is MONSTROUS! I looked at the specs for this saw - a 48 oz.gas tank.
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Post by lesorubcheek on Jan 26, 2018 16:28:15 GMT -5
There's a nut.... it's inside the thing that's like a pipe sticking in the center of the flywheel. That's actually the inner race of the over-running bearing starter setup. Notice it's hollow. Down inside you'll see the nut. Socket with an extension or a deep-well will get it. Take it off, and the inner race comes off too. Then it'll look like the flywheel on pretty much any of the Fairbanks/Morse types.
Dan
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Post by Deleted on Jan 26, 2018 18:47:02 GMT -5
Yeah Dan,I figured things out when I went back out after lunch,that was before I just read your post here.I got the flywheel off too.What a b%!*?h that was to get off.I used a flywheel puller that I borrowed from a guy back in Oct.I put quite a bit of pressure on the center bolt to the point that I couldn't turn it anymore & then tapped it with a light hammer,then pop,it loosed up & came right off.
The coil wasn't the problem,when I put a ratchet on the sprocket nut it still has the same problem,so it's internally in the engine.I'm wondering if it's in the bearings on the end of the crankshaft,or if it's in the connecting rod bearing?Now I need to know how to get the engine out & apart.I see there are 4 nuts that hold ther upper half of the cylinder to the lower half,but if I take those off I'll still have to get the lower end apart.I've never gotten this far on a 2 cycle before,but I'm learning.
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Post by lesorubcheek on Jan 26, 2018 19:04:12 GMT -5
Can you see if it's jamming with the piston moving up and near TDC, or if it's moving in the other direction? I've came across some that had debris up at the top of the cylinder and the piston would hit at the top.
Dan
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Post by Deleted on Jan 26, 2018 20:32:47 GMT -5
It starts binding on the upward stroke about half way before TDC & continues to get worse as it gets to TDC,then on the downward stroke it frees up.I think you might ber right about it hitting on something on the upper portion of the cylinder.Something else I noticed - on the exhaust side of the piston there's a burn mark,I don't know if this is a common thing.I'll see if I can get a pic up to show you.
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Post by lesorubcheek on Jan 26, 2018 20:44:31 GMT -5
I'd remove the cylinder and see what it looks like up top.
Dan
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