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Post by Deleted on Jan 26, 2018 21:03:25 GMT -5
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Post by Deleted on Jan 26, 2018 21:05:45 GMT -5
Here's a shot of the spur sprocket.Is the clutch under this,or do I have gear drive? 20180126_204249 by edju1958, on Flickr
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Post by onlyhomelites on Jan 26, 2018 21:09:31 GMT -5
I'd remove the cylinder and see what it looks like up top. Dan Yep, that's damned good advice. What you are describing sounds like some metal or carbon buildup in an exhaust port that is catching the rings as they go past.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 26, 2018 21:22:44 GMT -5
Here's a shot of the spur sprocket.Is the clutch under this,or do I have gear drive? 20180126_204249 by edju1958, on Flickr Manual oilers usually have the sprocket on the outside and the clutch on the inside of the drum, Auto oilers generally have the sprocket on the inside and clutch on the outside. I don't think that is always though
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Post by tjthechainsawmech on Jan 26, 2018 21:25:32 GMT -5
My 770gs would bind like that when I first tore it down as well. It was corrosion in the main bearings....good cleaning and oiling and they spun like new.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 26, 2018 21:33:46 GMT -5
I'd remove the cylinder and see what it looks like up top. Dan Yep, that's damned good advice. What you are describing sounds like some metal or carbon buildup in an exhaust port that is catching the rings as they go past. I can't understand how there could be that much carbon builup for a saw that wasn't used that much,unless he was using a really rich fuel mix & maybe really crappy gas.Of course we have to understand too that when this saw was made (1965-66)people didn't always follow mfgr.instructions. If the cylinder is loaded up with carbon deposits,how may it be removed,by honing?
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Post by tjthechainsawmech on Jan 27, 2018 0:27:59 GMT -5
Well you also have to remember that 2 stroke mix today was Not the same as back then. In the day that saw was made you used 0w-30 engine oil. According to the chainsaw collectors corner the xp-1000 was made to run 32:1. All the cylinders I have pulled off the 50's and 60's saws I've worked on had heavy carbon build up in comparison to today's standards. Doesn't take that long either with such a rich mixture. Now a days 32:1 is a racing mixture.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 27, 2018 15:38:09 GMT -5
OK guys,here's as far as I've gotten with this beast.I took part of the handle off so I thought I could get the cylinder off,but it got this far in the pics & won't budge another mm. 20180127_145442 by edju1958, on Flickr 20180127_145528 by edju1958, on Flickr
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Post by onlyhomelites on Jan 27, 2018 16:40:03 GMT -5
That sure looks like it's stuck on something in the muffler port area. Can you rotate the cylinder at all or is it pretty solid?
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Post by Deleted on Jan 27, 2018 17:54:19 GMT -5
I tried to rotate it - it's stuck tight.
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Post by undee70ss on Jan 27, 2018 18:08:33 GMT -5
Probably hung on a ring. Push it back in and try to find out what it’s hanging on.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 27, 2018 18:26:54 GMT -5
I can push it back in,but how can I find out what's it's hanging up on,I can't see into the cylinder.I thought about putting a block of wood up against the cylinder & hitting against the wood.If it nreaks a ring,oh well,I'll get new rings.It shouldn't damage the cylinder,right?Is that the skirting that's on the piston tight?
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Post by undee70ss on Jan 27, 2018 18:43:40 GMT -5
Ring end gap may be hanging on a port.
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Post by undee70ss on Jan 27, 2018 18:45:06 GMT -5
I would try very hard to get it out before using any kind of force.
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Post by sweepleader on Jan 27, 2018 18:45:11 GMT -5
If you bang on it to force it, you could easily damage the cylinder with a sharp corner on a broken chunk of ring. I would try solvent soaking first, way before hitting it with anything. Try any carbon solvent, I would use 50-50 ATF-Acetone. Move the piston to where it is at least a little loose so the solvent can get in. Don't rush it, give it some time to work, like a day or two with fresh solvent every few hours...
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Post by Deleted on Jan 27, 2018 19:24:29 GMT -5
I guess there was a good reason why I picked up a can of acetone today.I'll mix it 50/50 with atf & try it.Thanks!
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Post by Deleted on Jan 27, 2018 19:51:24 GMT -5
Try turning the piston 180 degrees
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Post by Deleted on Jan 28, 2018 16:59:23 GMT -5
Here's an update on the Xp-1000.I put the Acetone/ATF in the cylinder last night & let it soak overnight.I went out to the garage late this a.m.& turned it over a couple times - it seemed to turn a bit easier,but still hard to turn.I put more acetone/atf mix in it again & gave it a couple more turns.I'll go out again soon & do it more.I think it's going to be awhile before it comes apart.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 29, 2018 9:57:52 GMT -5
I just had a thought about why I can't get the piston to come out of the cylinder - Is it possible that either the piston or the cylinder somehow got warped,or out of round?Everything on the bottom end is loose as a goose - nothing is binding there
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Post by sweepleader on Jan 29, 2018 11:24:02 GMT -5
If the 50-50 helps, I am betting on just a layer of crusty oil/carbon built up at the bottom of the cylinder. There are always areas that the piston does not rub as much, with some wear/clearance on the skirts the cylinder can get smaller at the bottom, below the rings. It seems to me that may be the problem.
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