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Post by edju1958 on May 12, 2022 19:14:20 GMT -5
I've got a 925 that I haven't had fired up in about 3 yrs.I had it "running" somewhat earlier today,but it acted like it had a miss in it.I don't have the correct plug in it,regardless it should still run with a plug that's 2 heat ranges too hot.I currently have a CJ8 in it & it should have a CJ6,as far as I know.When I try to pull it over it tries to pull the grip right out of my hand.It's acting like the timing is retarded too far.It doesn't have points (as far as I know),so it must have the solid state ignition.If anyone has any ideas I'm listening.It has spark,compression,& is getting fuel.
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Post by edju1958 on May 13, 2022 18:05:24 GMT -5
Well I guess I'm on my own once again,as usual.
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Post by undee70ss on May 13, 2022 19:24:05 GMT -5
Timing must be advanced, retarded timing wouldn’t pull the grip from your hand. Check flywheel key.
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Post by lesorubcheek on May 13, 2022 19:53:36 GMT -5
Earlier 925s had the 3 piece ignition and the newer ones had the single piece module. According to the docs, on the 3 piece setup, it had a special retard trigger mechanism for easier starting which is the reason it didn't have a decomp. If yours is the 3 piece type, then I'd suspect the problem may be a fault in the trigger mechanism. That's the round component with the hole in the center the crankshaft goes through. If yours is the single piece ignition, then I'm not sure.... it may have some retard mechanism for cranking also, but never read anything about it. Good luck. Dan
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Post by tangobravo on May 13, 2022 20:31:20 GMT -5
In my experience with my own SXL-925, I have found they have aggressive compression and probably advanced spark timing. They supposedly have a spark retard function for the initial start-up, but it is a good idea to roll the crank around until the engine is coming up on compression. Have the saw ON the ground to start. Take ALL the slack out of the pull rope. BRISKLEY PULL the rope to get it to fire and help avoid a kick back tendency. This chainsaw has been straining on my starting arm and wrist more than a few times. A SXL-925 could really have used a compression release feature, but does not have one!! Probably is the reason for a spark retard start feature in the 3 piece ignition.
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Post by edju1958 on May 13, 2022 21:46:48 GMT -5
As I said in my first post,the saw ran flawlessly when I put it away 3 yrs.ago.I don't see how a flywheel key can go bad just sitting there.It's got to be in the ignition module & I suppose that as luck would have it it'll be a 3 piece ignition.The rain is a comin',so I'll have a couple days to look at about 5 saws.They never bother till ya use 'em.
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Post by edju1958 on May 14, 2022 15:18:57 GMT -5
I just popped the flywheel off & this is what I found:Looks to be a 2 piece module,the Woodruff key is broken off in the flywheel,& finally the crankshaft is weinered.The keyway is about 3 times wider than it needs to be,so either I get a NOS or used crankshaft,or I junk the saw.
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Post by edju1958 on May 14, 2022 16:48:48 GMT -5
Well Greg,I guess you were right when you said to check the flywheel key.I've looked all over & can only find a points crankshaft at Leon's.I don't know if that will work on the electronic ignition saw. I got this saw in Sept.2018 for free & had to part it together with the help of chainsawlady.Apparently someone had been into the saw before me because it was way too clean & the flywheel nut was loose when I went to take it off.If I just put another woodruff key in it'll just shear off again.Looking closer & closer to getting stripped for parts & going to the boneyard.I've got a 923 & a 902 that can take it's place.
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Post by bobby167 on May 14, 2022 18:03:54 GMT -5
TSB Dated 5/82 #182-022
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Post by edju1958 on May 14, 2022 19:10:13 GMT -5
TSB Dated 5/82 #182-022A link would be nice.
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Post by undee70ss on May 14, 2022 20:30:48 GMT -5
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Post by blythkd on May 14, 2022 20:54:37 GMT -5
Seems like maybe I have some 925 crankshafts. I'll take a look if you're still interested in fixing the saw.
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Post by undee70ss on May 14, 2022 22:50:06 GMT -5
I just popped the flywheel off & this is what I found:Looks to be a 2 piece module,the .
That has the 3 piece ignition
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Post by edju1958 on May 14, 2022 23:40:15 GMT -5
I just remembered that I have a Frankensaw that I acquired over 4 yrs.ago & we had quite the discussion here as to what model it was.It seems that the main body of the saw was a 902 with a rear handle from a 925 & the engine was from a 903E.I was inexperienced at the time & gave up on fixing it.Now I'm wondering if I could use parts from the damaged 925 to revive the Frankensaw,or use the crank out of the 903E & put it in the 925?The TSB doesn't mention the 903E as using the same crankshaft. Brent,let me know if you do indeed have a crankshaft & what price you have on it.
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Post by undee70ss on May 14, 2022 23:57:22 GMT -5
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Post by edju1958 on May 15, 2022 7:57:33 GMT -5
Thanks Greg! I'm just wondering what kind of a job it is to pull the saw apart to replace the crankshaft.It seems to me that Leon did a video on a crankl replacement on a 925 not too long ago.
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Post by blythkd on May 15, 2022 10:31:07 GMT -5
To replace the crank virtually comes down to - if you see a screw or nut, remove it:)
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Post by edju1958 on May 15, 2022 10:38:49 GMT -5
Now why didn't I think of that.
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Post by blythkd on May 15, 2022 11:27:16 GMT -5
Yeah you'll have to take apart about everything that comes apart. Just about like a SXL or SEZ. You've got the flywheel off so at this point, remove the carb, carb chamber/handle assy, jug, take the rod screws out and catch and count the bearing needles (28), remove the clutch, I would usually go ahead and remove the oil pump for inspection and cleaning, remove the round module and back plate, remove the 2 crankshaft retainer screws in the crankcase. Now the crank and ball bearing is ready to drive out of the crankcase. No big deal:)
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Post by xl130 on May 15, 2022 16:46:16 GMT -5
It’s a complete tear down. I ripped a 922 apart this winter and pulled the crank. It’s a big job but not too bad if you have patience.
I can’t remember if you said that the threads were damaged on the end or just the key way? If the threads are good and the flywheel will still go on then I would just line the slot up with where the key is supposed to be and tighten it back on. In theory it should stay in place. I think it’s friction that holds the flywheel? The key is only for precise and easy timing.
Worth a try before ripping the saw apart.
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