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Post by edju1958 on May 15, 2022 17:21:55 GMT -5
Trevor,the threads on the crank are good,just the slot for the keyway is wallered out to about 3 times the width it needs to be.The thing is where do I line the flywheel keyway up to,right or left side of the wallered out slot?Timing will be thrown off drastically. I don't want to do a tear down for 3 reasons - 1)inexperience,2)afraid of losing needle bearing due to having poor eyesight,3)I need to go in for another back surgery in the next few weeks & don't want to have something torn down in a 1000 pieces & not be able to get back to it for months. Brent,I watched one of Leon's videos on the tear down of a 925 & it ain't easy,IMO.Nothing easy-peasy about it.
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Post by xl130 on May 15, 2022 17:29:33 GMT -5
I would take a straight edge and line it up strainer in the middle of the slot and mark a one on the end of the shaft with a sharpie. if it’s kicks and bucks then make a slight move one way or the other. A bit of a challenge but WAAAAY easier that tearing a crankshaft out!
I’ve done this on a saw before and it worked out fine for me.
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Post by edju1958 on May 15, 2022 18:22:03 GMT -5
I'll give that a try Trevor.It's worth it to me if I don't have to spend any more money on this saw than I need to.Would you suggest another Woodruff key or not?
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Post by xl130 on May 15, 2022 18:43:51 GMT -5
I would personally try without first.
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Post by blythkd on May 15, 2022 18:48:33 GMT -5
No harm in trying to get it running as is if the flywheel will still snug down on the shaft. Just need to check the flywheel bore and crank taper for burrs that would keep it from seating properly. I'd dry fit it and make slight adjustments to get it to where it runs the best then mark it, remove the flywheel, lather it up with red loctite, reinstall and tighten it down. After that loctite sets, it'll never move.
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Post by edju1958 on May 16, 2022 18:45:27 GMT -5
I found out what got the whole shebang going in the first place,the flywheel nut is stripped! I tried to get the nut tightened down after positioning the flywheel & it wouldn't tighten down.I've gotta look for my Frankensaw to see if that flywheel nut will fit. Edit:I just looked at the IPL & found the same flywheel nut was used on the Super2.I have a bunch of parts Super2s in my shed.These nuts are thin,so I may double nut them to lock them onto the crank.
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Post by blythkd on May 16, 2022 20:57:34 GMT -5
Shouldn't be the same nut. The 925 should use a 3/8 nut and the little saws, XL's and Super 2's, use a 5/16 nut.
But at any rate, a 3/8 flywheel nut shouldn't be hard to come up with .
Sounds like somebody forgot to torque the nut down:)
I guess the threads on the end of the crank are still functional?
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alec
Gots Tree Cred
Posts: 37
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Post by alec on May 24, 2022 19:21:58 GMT -5
Just put the woodruff key in there and put some jb weld in the hollowed out part of the woodruff key hole.
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Post by edju1958 on May 26, 2022 21:39:16 GMT -5
And how long do you think the JB Weld will stay in place?2nd question - where do I put the key?Right side,left side,or middle of the wallowed out crankshaft?I tried messing with the placement of the flywheel on the cgrankshaft without a key & got nowhere (as I suspected I would).I bought the correct crankshaft that was on Feebay for $47.So I guess I can tear it down & not know what I'm doing & lose half of the needle bearings when I get to that point.I was considering shipping it out to have someone do the work,but shipping costs round trip will be in the neighborhood of $100,then add on the labor charges,& the cost of the crank & I'm looking at $250.Then if there are other parts needed along the way that'll bring the cost up even more.IMHO the saw isn't worth it.The saw has good spark,but I just couldn't get it to fire.I thought the compression may be low,so I did a compression test on it today & after 5 pulls it had 140 psi,after 8 pulls it had 145 psi.Ideally the saw should have around 175 psi.Now throw a set of rings in there & jack the cost up another $30-$40.
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alec
Gots Tree Cred
Posts: 37
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Post by alec on May 27, 2022 13:51:55 GMT -5
Maybe you should just go buy a new stihl. I don’t think you even have to adjust carburetors anymore !
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Post by edju1958 on May 27, 2022 18:48:54 GMT -5
And I thought this was a Homelite site.
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Post by edju1958 on Jun 1, 2022 10:23:54 GMT -5
I've got a friend who hasa agreed to change the crank for me at little to no cost.He just likes working on saws.I figured as long as he's in there he might as well put a new set of rings in.Now the problem I'm having is every PDF for the 925 lists the rings as the same part # - 69452.There were 2 different size pistons used on the 925s,one was an 82cc & the other was the later 77cc.How would I know without tearing down the saw which piston is in my saw?The use of a popsicle stick inserted into the cylinder & having the piston make an indentation on it isn't very precise.As I understand it the difference between the 2 different size pistons is only 1/16 in.
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Post by blythkd on Jun 1, 2022 11:47:29 GMT -5
Pop the muffler cap off if it's not already and look at the rings. Thin rings (oval exhaust port) are 82cc, thick rings (bridged rectangular port) are 77cc. If you're not sure what they look like just post a picture.
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Post by edju1958 on Jun 1, 2022 14:35:40 GMT -5
Looks to me like it has the rectangular port which indicates 77cc.Also,it looks to have thin rings.I have a new cylinder gasket on the way from Jeff Hendricks.Buford Parrish has the thin rings @ $10 each.The piston looks good on the exhaust side,but that can change.So far parts are $76.
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Post by xl130 on Jun 1, 2022 14:42:51 GMT -5
Looks oval to me Ed.
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Post by edju1958 on Jun 1, 2022 14:54:24 GMT -5
Looks oval to me Ed. You're right Trevor.I was looking at the part where the muffler bolts on.Now I have a predicament.All the IPLs call for part # 69452 which are rings for the 77cc.Will the rings from any of the other 82cc saws work?Edit:I checked on the other IPLs that were 82cc saws & came up with part # 55537.There are several on Feebay right now.
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Post by blythkd on Jun 1, 2022 20:59:20 GMT -5
I think the 69452 rings are thin rings for 82cc saws. I can check tomorrow to see if I have some to confirm.
The old parts books call for 69452 rings anyway, that's what I'm going by. And the changeover to 77cc parts didn't happen until at least the mid 80's. I recall when the TSB came out and we started rebuilding burnt up 925's to 77cc's. That was back when I was cutting my Homie teeth, first few years in the shop.
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Post by blythkd on Jun 2, 2022 11:36:49 GMT -5
I just measured a new set of 69452 rings. They're the 2 1/16" bore and .024 thick.
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Post by edju1958 on Jun 2, 2022 13:22:19 GMT -5
Will they work on my saw,or do I need thick rings?
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Post by blythkd on Jun 2, 2022 21:33:43 GMT -5
I guess I wouldn't know for sure if the 69452 rings would work on your saw or not until your old rings could be measured. Honestly before I saw the picture you posted if you'd just said your saw has the oval exhaust port, I would have said the thin rings will work. But in your picture, your rings look wider than .024" to me. Maybe it's just an optical illusion because the faces are worn flat clear across the surface?
Actually I think any time I've been that deep into a 925, it got a new jug, piston and ring(s). Since the 925 overhaul TSB came out in the 80's, they only got one ring on the new 49314 piston. I guess what I'm saying is, I've never just put a rings in a 925 and I'd hate to steer you wrong.
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