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Post by smokeeater on Jun 6, 2020 16:29:09 GMT -5
Trying to fix up friends chainsaw for him Homelite-Terry 50222A TG00945
I ordered a boot below the carb and after disassembling everything I got it in properly. I also cleaned out carb after taking it apart...
Now it seems like there is a lot of fuel going into it. I did get it going and was trying to adjust idle and fuel mixtures but that didn't work cause it stopped again. I could look down carb and see fuel floating there, is that normal? I'm thinking no, but i could be wrong. I have to undo fuel cap to relieve pressure to stop flow.
As well (Is this normal?) The chain brake handle when pulled back to start tends to slip forward by itself and stop chain. I mean chain works but I have to hold chain brake handle with handle along top to make it work
Thanks!
Any help is appreciated! I'm getting really tired of pulling the cord on this old monsterI got it
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Post by onlyhomelites on Jun 7, 2020 9:33:16 GMT -5
If it's getting too much fuel, there's a few possibilities for the carb: the inlet lever is set a bit too high, the needle is bad or the spring is a bit weak and needs stretched slightly. If you have a pressure tester, you can pressurize the carburetor and check for leaks before it's back on the saw. When you went through the carb, were the diaphragms still fairly pliable? AS for the chain brake, it sounds like one of the tension springs is broken or misaligned. I don't think there is an adjustment: www.leonschainsawpartsandrepair.com/uploads/3/9/7/9/39792537/homelite_35sl_chainsaw_ipl_18728.pdf
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Post by smokeeater on Jun 8, 2020 7:32:19 GMT -5
Here's pics of the bar side. Everything looks ok unless I missed something.
There is a screw at the top of the tension spring that I tightened. It's on the red part on top going down to spring
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Post by sweepleader on Jun 8, 2020 7:52:45 GMT -5
That IPL looks like a completely different saw, compared to the pictures.
I am not familiar with the 35SL; is this 50222A TG00945 really correctly a 35SL?
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Post by smokeeater on Jun 8, 2020 7:54:07 GMT -5
I had posted on another thread a while back and was told the closest was the 35SL It does have "35" on the side of it
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Post by onlyhomelites on Jun 8, 2020 9:44:30 GMT -5
I forgot that the band itself was threaded...it's a real PITA to get it all back together, but I think you need to thread the band into that pivot cam a bit further to make it "harder" to set.
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Post by smokeeater on Jun 8, 2020 18:02:44 GMT -5
Thanks for getting back to me...
Not sure what a pivot cam is, but looking at it (see pic) Do you mean unscrewing #1, take it off and move in or out #2?
And if it is trigger sensitive it tells me it's a little too tight, should i make it looser?
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Post by onlyhomelites on Jun 8, 2020 23:35:55 GMT -5
Yeah, #2 is the adjustment. I just can't remember if that also positions the black cam that #2 is attached to. If it is independent, then loosening the band up at point #2 would probably do the trick.
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Post by smokeeater on Jun 13, 2020 7:45:41 GMT -5
So loosennig the band helped, but will need to do it a bit more...
The carb though is still and issue with flooding engine. I got a Walbro rebuild kit and installed all the pieces, but it was still doing it.
I'm wondering if 1. the fuel filter has come off, which I'll check today or the intake gasket isn't sealed properly between carb and that "cone" shaped metal piece to boot. Could that cause too much fuel to go through? I was also thinking the Idle/Hi?Low could be off, but if it was could that supply that amount of fuel?
Thanks for the help everyone
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Post by onlyhomelites on Jun 14, 2020 10:23:23 GMT -5
Will it idle at all?
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Post by smokeeater on Jun 15, 2020 6:13:22 GMT -5
No not at all
I'm also wondering about the gasket under the carb... I dunno
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Post by onlyhomelites on Jun 15, 2020 22:29:30 GMT -5
I'm guessing it's one of three things...
1) Inlet needle spring is weak and needs stretched a bit. 2) Inlet needle arm is bent a bit too high. 3) Circuit plate gasket is the wrong one of the two.
Or some combo of the above. Also, if there is any doubt about the diaphragms, a new carburetor kit is relatively inexpensive.
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Post by smokeeater on Jun 16, 2020 10:02:34 GMT -5
Ok I will check the needle and spring. I did put a new carb kit in it and used the same design gasket that came out. as well the needle itself was replaced. I will double check the arm though New diaphrams were installed with kit
I'll keep you posted...
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Post by smokeeater on Jun 16, 2020 14:50:02 GMT -5
Well I adjusted the needle arm and I at least now can keep a little bit of idle. When I give it throttle and then let it go low again it cuts out, but not a ton of gas anymore
Between the LO/High and Idle which screw should I check first?
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Post by sweepleader on Jun 17, 2020 20:25:24 GMT -5
I always set the high speed first, get it 4 stroking unloaded, smooth loaded. Then I set the idle as fast as the mix screw will make it go, the idle stop screw just below the clutch so the chain stops. Usually takes several trys to get the right combination.
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Post by smokeeater on Jun 18, 2020 18:42:35 GMT -5
So you don't touch the Lo screw?? If not what would be a good "preset start for it? Like 1.5 turns out from tight? It's been in and out already
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Post by sweepleader on Jun 19, 2020 11:21:17 GMT -5
Yeah, normally no need to adjust the low as I start with the throttle at least half open on the throttle lock or held open. Get it to run right on the high speed screw, then go to the idle. If I have to find a place to start, something like 1 to 1.5 turns out. That setting is not critical for first adjustments but works for high and low.
The engine will normally run with the high screw a long way off optimal and can be adjusted pretty easily once the engine fires. The idle speed and mix screws are interdependent and affect the high speed acceleration. The high speed setting does not affect the idle settings.
If it stumbles on acceleration, open the idle mix a bit and reset the idle speed as needed after acceleration issues are cleared up.
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Post by smokeeater on Jun 19, 2020 17:48:32 GMT -5
Ok I will try that. What about if it revs at high speeds, but when I let go of throttle it bogs out and stalls?
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Post by sweepleader on Jun 20, 2020 6:18:16 GMT -5
Then the idle needs adjusting, set the idle speed high enough to keep it running, then adjust the mix for max speed. Lower the idle speed screw and readjust the idle mix. Repeat as needed. When you get the idle right, check acceleration to full throttle. If it bogs on acceleration, richen up the the idle mix a little and try again. You will have to go over the adjustments several times to get the smooth idle, no chain movement, acceleration all just right. It may take a few minutes and a few tries.
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Post by smokeeater on Jun 22, 2020 17:44:38 GMT -5
<img src="//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/bbcode/video-preview.png" video="<iframe width="560" height="315" src=" www.metacafe.com/embed/12087337/chain-bar/" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>" alt="Video Preview"> Well it looks like I got the idle issue...see video Now I'm back to the brake arm popping back into the engaged mode... I posted pics before about the brake coil. I have adjusted it out as far as it would go so it would be a bigger ring but it actually came unattached. I had to get it back on but it's still popping on (see video) As well there seems to be a bar oil leak... any thoughts on that? Las 2 things I see wrong with this thing
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