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Post by redsqwrl on Apr 4, 2009 20:34:31 GMT -5
I have Two 1050's One came cheap with a buggered Flywheel and crank from poor workmanship, the other saw is very clean and respectable condition. Both have excellent compression. The beater will out run the *good* one 2-1 in the cut where the coors flavored BS stops and the torque shows thru. The hard working one always goes down with a Flywheel related ignition problem and finds itself sitting as I try to make the Good one make more power thru tuning, different rims and lighter chain or some stupid idea to modify the sharpening of the chain. Today was a chainsaw day for me.Each spring, I find myself spending a day getting all of my ice cutting chains off and dumping out the vegitable oil, sharpening the wood chains and just generally cutting any left over blocks of wood into sawdust. The good 1050 Which always starts and runs great (but just doesn't have the same grunt as the Other one) had a Fuel issue.I split the tank repaired the pick up and lines and tada more power in the cut. Still not the same. I moved the BC back and forth between these to saws and that old POS has more power. I went over to Mike acres site to read up on 1050's.... WTH makes the 1977 saw pull a 60' BC and the 72' version with the same displacement and Bore and Stroke only pull a 30" BC. I will accept the "Paint the word Super on the air cleaner" answer but there has to be something more to it......  Timing? Ported piston? Bigger carb? I think I am working on the wrong saw. I feel like pulling the good parts out of the good saw and put them all onto the Beater to make it more reliable, I am afraid I am going to let the *super* out of it?? Any one know What the Super decal does for performance?? Mike |
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Post by redsqwrl on Apr 4, 2009 21:15:51 GMT -5
What does it in is the Flywheel won't stay put. I had good spark when I first recieved it...the problem was it came abit early and nearly broke my fingers off my wrist when It would kick back. I pulled the flywheel and found the key-way and flywheel all buggered up. The flywheel is so worn the taper is stretched out and the nut jams against the Crank before the flywheel gets tight. I welded the crank and hand made a woodruff key slot. I added a washer to force the worn flywheel on to the taper even further and the flywheel stayed put for about 60 slices of a 34"-38" yellow birch (kinda like hard maple) and about four sturgeon holes. then the damn Flywheel moved and I was right back busting forearms to start it. When your saw gives up on you cutting ice all the Husky-Stihl owning cousins and uncles give you so much Crap that you go out and get a 750  There was another ign failure but I created it by being sloppy under the flywheel the Spark plug wire rubbed  I need a crank and Flywheel to make it right. But you are right it still will be a Wet horse. mike |
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Post by MCS on Apr 4, 2009 21:27:14 GMT -5
You have checked the exhaust port for carbon, right Do both saws have the same carburetor? What is the number What does the compression measure on the two saws I suppose there could be some difference in timing. Maybe reed valves Is the trigger pulling the carburetor fully open By your description the difference is quite noticeable. Let us know the answers to the above questions. |
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Post by redsqwrl on Apr 4, 2009 22:40:35 GMT -5
You have checked the exhaust port for carbon, right There is no chance of carbon, I will look but these saws run awesome the Spark plugs and exhaust tract is perfect slightly light tan clean.Do both saws have the same carburetor? What is the number I have swapped carbs between these saws they are the same both are the accelerator pump type with the goofy idle air adj.What does the compression measure on the two saws they are both really healthy, I have a gauge I will check it.I suppose there could be some difference in timing. this would necesitate a different flywheel part number right?Maybe reed valves Can't see down in there to notice anything unusual.Is the trigger pulling the carburetor fully open Absolutley. verified.By your description the difference is quite noticeable. Let us know the answers to the above questions. Tomorrow. AM Supposed to snow. RS |
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Post by MCS on Apr 5, 2009 9:28:38 GMT -5
Your comment about the flywheel shifting and causing it to be an arm breaker when starting bothers me a little. Spark timing is a function of the opening of the points and the orientation of the flywheel magnets only provides the coil with "lines of flux" to create the current flow. If the flywheel is out of position then the only thing that should change is the strength of the spark. Now, if the points have been replaced with one of those little black magic "solid state" devices then timing becomes a function of magnet position and a flywheel shift would cause a change in timing. So, just to make sure we are comparing 1050's to 1050's, are both saws using a standard ignition with points and condenser?
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Post by redsqwrl on Apr 5, 2009 10:27:29 GMT -5
That is a fact in theory and I agree 100% but when I first started messing with this saw
(the recoil rope exercises), I always had strong spark with slow pulls of the rope, it would just sputter and never really catch. the flywheel keyway was ahead of the crank key. after the weld and dremel work I got it to fire and really run good, I did just guess where the key slot should be based on where it looked like it should have been I used the undamaged areas of the flywheel and crank to line it up.
this saw is a bitch to pull over either way so I probably only remember the knuckle issue when I did not catch and run. When it would start all was good in the world.
the knuckle buster has points, I removed the entire ign assembly to change the spark plug wire after it rubbed itself raw after one Of my sloppy hasty repairs. I have never been in the 1050 non super. I am sure it is original, It always runs hot cold ect..
I have to go freeze my but on a buell.
I will be back this when I thaw.
RD
I forgot I have a Fools Run today and the details and compression test will have to wait until the 100 mile motorcycle ride is done.... It is supposed to flippin snow today, why I am getting onto the bike instead of palying with these saws is beyond me. Back on track, Any thoughts on why a super 1050 can pull a 60" bar and a normal 1050 is only rated for a 30"
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Post by MCS on Apr 5, 2009 16:54:37 GMT -5
Something else to think about and remember, these saws are really quite simple in design. What if the good looking - poor performer - has the point gap set a little wide or the rubbing block is worn. That, in effect, retards the timing and timing becomes more important as RPMs increase. It sounds like you have all the tools, why don't you pop the flywheel on the good looker and take a peak?
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Post by redsqwrl on Apr 5, 2009 18:50:02 GMT -5
that is where I am headed next.
compression is only #2 different between the saws 118- 120 the super is slightly higher. (my gauge is historically low compared with my neighbors)
I am going to fish around for the reason the super can pull a 60" bar and the normal 1050 can't.
step two check the points as thouroughly as I can. I think there is some power to be had there.
I think the ideal path might involve the condensing the Two into one. If it turns out to be porting and cyl deck height that makes the extra Bar capacity and the cranks are the same and timing is the same (as machined onto the crank) then I will just break down the super and reinstall the good stuff into the normal 1050 and then decal it up as a super.
RS
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Post by MCS on Apr 5, 2009 19:28:21 GMT -5
Somewhere on the forum are some spec sheets. Here is the one for the 1050. I copied them when they were posted.  At the bottom is says it was printed in 1972 and it is a Super1050. Are you saying that one saw is a Super and the other just a plain 1050? Acres site also says the timing my have some adjustment: IGNITION TIMING: Position stator plate fully clockwise I also see that there are 3 variation of the 1050 listed. 1050 Auto Super1050E CARBURETOR: Tillotson HL-222A Super XP1050 CARBURETOR: Tillotson HL-294A |
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Post by OBR on Apr 5, 2009 19:51:03 GMT -5
A7, are the carbs the same for the top two?
If so, xp = xtra power?? (via different carb??)
Maybe he's got a regular 1050 and Super XP 1050??
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Post by redsqwrl on Apr 6, 2009 8:48:14 GMT -5
the pretty one is a 1050 auto
the beater is a super 1050 auto
Both pump oil and have manual overrides
I need to search that literature
there is no (XP)
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Post by lesorubcheek on Apr 6, 2009 12:03:47 GMT -5
I'd love to learn the differences between a "regular" 1050 and a Super. I haven't seen any IPLs that really seem to point out any significant differences. I'm aware of at least the two carb configuration (Tilly HL and Walbro SDC), and the use of the funky idle air control via the manifold used on some models, but that's about it. Most other models that get a "super" have a few notable improvements (larger displacement, special rings, etc). I'm not clear though with the 1050 what was different.
Dan
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Post by chainsawwhisperer on Apr 6, 2009 16:04:33 GMT -5
I think the Super 1050 originally came with a red cape and a 'Super' emblem.
It was the first crime fighting chainsaw to be employed by the Justice League.
CSW
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Post by RandyMac on Apr 6, 2009 16:51:27 GMT -5
I don't know the 1050, but I know the McCulloch 250 and Super 250, there is a world of difference between the two. All too often, the "Super" label means nothing, in this case it might. Port timing, higher compression, ignition systems can truely add a bunch of extra zing.
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Post by chainsawlady on Apr 7, 2009 17:43:32 GMT -5
I have Two 1050's One came cheap with a buggered Flywheel and crank from poor workmanship, the other saw is very clean and respectable condition. Both have excellent compression. The beater will out run the *good* one 2-1 in the cut where the coors flavored BS stops and the torque shows thru. The hard working one always goes down with a Flywheel related ignition problem and finds itself sitting as I try to make the Good one make more power thru tuning, different rims and lighter chain or some stupid idea to modify the sharpening of the chain. Today was a chainsaw day for me.Each spring, I find myself spending a day getting all of my ice cutting chains off and dumping out the vegitable oil, sharpening the wood chains and just generally cutting any left over blocks of wood into sawdust. The good 1050 Which always starts and runs great (but just doesn't have the same grunt as the Other one) had a Fuel issue.I split the tank repaired the pick up and lines and tada more power in the cut. Still not the same. I moved the BC back and forth between these to saws and that old POS has more power. I went over to Mike acres site to read up on 1050's.... WTH makes the 1977 saw pull a 60' BC and the 72' version with the same displacement and Bore and Stroke only pull a 30" BC. I will accept the "Paint the word Super on the air cleaner" answer but there has to be something more to it...... Timing? Ported piston? Bigger carb? I think I am working on the wrong saw. I feel like pulling the good parts out of the good saw and put them all onto the Beater to make it more reliable, I am afraid I am going to let the *super* out of it?? Any one know What the Super decal does for performance?? Mike |
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Post by chainsawlady on Apr 7, 2009 17:45:26 GMT -5
redsqwrl
I have spec sheets for 1050 and S1050. Will send you a copy of each for $2.00 each.. Send me your address.
chain saw lady
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Post by MCS on Apr 7, 2009 17:58:10 GMT -5
Chainsawlady, Welcome to the House of Homelite forum. Our goal, not really an official statement of direction, is to provide help, at what ever level each of us can contribute, to keeping as many Homelites in the world running. I saw that you joined a few day ago but I'm somewhat surprised that your first post is to sell something. We all like to know each others background as it relates to Homelites so tell all of us what brings you to this group  |
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Post by redsqwrl on Apr 7, 2009 19:55:37 GMT -5
redsqwrl I have spec sheets for 1050 and S1050. Will send you a copy of each for $2.00 each.. Send me your address. chain saw lady Thank you, I will keep that option open, I like to struggle a little bit, I find i learn a little about myself through these old saws and the history involved in reseaching them. To Date I have come to realize that the 1050 was a long running model for homelite. and it appears that there are quite a few small changes they made as they sold that saw over the years. One person mentioned that the 1050 was in the catalogs longer than the model 750. thanks for the offer, by chance are they in color? Mike |
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zip69
Wud Cuttah
Posts: 45
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Post by zip69 on Apr 7, 2009 20:22:06 GMT -5
i have a super 1020 and was wondering the same about the super part of it . i geuss it like how many like does it take to get to the center of a totsie pop the world will never know . also i need a piston and rings for it anybody got one
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Post by redsqwrl on May 28, 2009 15:02:57 GMT -5
Al right, today became a chainsaw day, again I got bored with the runners and turned my attention to a 150 I acquired from a Dealer scrap pile, Apparently Stihl has a push pull drag trade in promotion....... I adjusted the points and the 150 is alive. Naturally the repair bug caught me and the super 1050 is apart. I fueled it, choked it, and it pops good and runs a tiny bit and then dies like no fuel, low compression. I removed the flywheel, the key way is 1/2 sheared. the hub is cracked, It(the flywheel) is going in the scrap pile. I am going to recut the crank keyway. Tommorrow I am going to see my (drug/homelite parts)dealer. If he does not have a new one, I am going to see if a c-7 flywheel will fit. ( I have to believe it *balance*...... crap.) I hope he has one.  RS |
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