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Post by jasonrkba on Feb 9, 2019 20:17:33 GMT -5
Hello first post. I have a really clean super EZ that looks like it was straight gassed. I have a few questions. First is how do you get that side plate behind the oil pump off? Outside of that I have it pretty tore down but I am going to replace the seals, crank bearings, piston/cylinder, cylinder gasket, grommets, lines and rebuild the carburetor. Ebay has a lot of these parts but I was hoping you guys would have another source that could save me a few bucks.
Thanks. Jason.
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Post by edju1958 on Feb 9, 2019 21:00:54 GMT -5
Yes,I only buy on Ebay as necessary,like carb rebuild kits,but you gotta be careful,not all those kits are stamped properly.Leon has a pretty good supply of parts for rebuilding,as does Chainsawlady.If neither one of them has what you need,I can recommend Bob Johnson of Bob's Engine & Lawnmower Repair in Maryland,N.Y,He has a huge supply of Homelite parts.
Ed
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Post by undee70ss on Feb 9, 2019 22:12:22 GMT -5
Hello first post. I have a really clean super EZ that looks like it was straight gassed. I have a few questions. First is how do you get that side plate behind the oil pump off? Outside of that I have it pretty tore down but I am going to replace the seals, crank bearings, piston/cylinder, cylinder gasket, grommets, lines and rebuild the carburetor. Ebay has a lot of these parts but I was hoping you guys would have another source that could save me a few bucks. Thanks. Jason. Welcome to House of Homelite. Seen your posts on Facebook. Here is a link to Leon's store www.leonschainsawpartsandrepair.com/store/c28/Homelite_Super_EZ_Automatic%2C_Super_XL-Mini_Chainsaw.html |
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Post by undee70ss on Feb 9, 2019 22:16:17 GMT -5
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Post by 5terrysupersaws on Feb 9, 2019 22:58:49 GMT -5
Hello first post. I have a really clean super EZ that looks like it was straight gassed. I have a few questions. First is how do you get that side plate behind the oil pump off? Outside of that I have it pretty tore down but I am going to replace the seals, crank bearings, piston/cylinder, cylinder gasket, grommets, lines and rebuild the carburetor. Ebay has a lot of these parts but I was hoping you guys would have another source that could save me a few bucks. Thanks. Jason. Connecting rod has to be removed first to separate the crankcase from the drive case, the crankshaft stays attached to the drive case. |
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Post by jasonrkba on Feb 10, 2019 10:33:36 GMT -5
Thank you Terry! After sitting all night soaked in AeroKroil it came loose enough to see.
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Post by blythkd on Feb 10, 2019 10:43:51 GMT -5
Hello first post. I have a really clean super EZ that looks like it was straight gassed. I have a few questions. First is how do you get that side plate behind the oil pump off? Outside of that I have it pretty tore down but I am going to replace the seals, crank bearings, piston/cylinder, cylinder gasket, grommets, lines and rebuild the carburetor. Ebay has a lot of these parts but I was hoping you guys would have another source that could save me a few bucks. Thanks. Jason. Those are very handy little saws with great power to weight ratio. I rebuilt one myself a few years ago and would love to run it if I could keep an ignition module in it. Hope you have the breaker point ignition!
I used to rebuild SEZ's right and left, most of them due to a galled piston and stuck rings. Some of them could have been due to straight gas but I'm guessing that most were not. It's a pretty high performance, high compression little engine that seemed to lack a bit in the cooling department. I'm sure it'll be perfectly clean when you reassemble it but it's best to stay on top of keeping the cooling fins clean and remove the starter housing occasionally to clean any oily sawdust gunk from the entire blower housing area. Not sure which muffler you have but ensuring good exhaust flow is a good idea too. The later models had a screen that is Enemy #1.
As the previous post mentioned, the connecting rod must be removed to completely disassemble the saw and replace the crank bearings. First off, I would make sure you need bearings before tearing down this far. Although I have seen a SEZ ball bearing or two that needed to be replaced, it's fairly rare as it's a pretty substantial bearing given the size of the saw. When they're pretty tight and smooth, I've always left them alone. And as for the flywheel side roller bearing, if one of those has ever gone bad, I've never seen it. I'd say it's virtually bulletproof.
Replacing crank seals is a great idea. Old hard seals that leak air sporadically make adjusting for consistent idle speed pretty problematic on this model. A SEZ with even a small air leak can be pretty aggravating. That said, if you do elect to do the complete teardown and rebuild, there's an O-ring that seals the crankcase to the drivecase that you'll want to replace, pn 65018 IIRC. I usually put a little silicone on it too for good measure. And loctite the 3 screws that holds the 2 parts together as it's not been uncommon for them to come loose. I've torn more saws down completely to replace and reseal that O-ring than I ever have for the ball bearing.
I'd check the carb manifold over pretty closely too. Corners have been cracked on them probably from over tightening the screws. And with only 3 screws instead of 4, (who knows why), I've seen a little silicone on that gasket help idling performance as well, you just have to go sparingly so you don't impede the pulse port that operates the carb.
Good luck with your rebuild. It's good to see another old saw coming back to life!
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Post by jasonrkba on Feb 10, 2019 19:20:26 GMT -5
I got everything tore down and cleaned. I always soak the nuts and bolts in acetone then brush clean with a brass brush. Its going to take me a while but when im done it will be like a new saw. The bearings do seem like they are in good shape. I've never messed with points before so I'll have to learn.
I actually have two EZ's Im working on right now. The other one I purchased off of craigslist for $15. The body is not as nice as the other but the piston and cylinder look good. I have both mufflers in an electrolysis bath right now.
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Post by 5terrysupersaws on Feb 10, 2019 19:58:34 GMT -5
I got everything tore down and cleaned. I always soak the nuts and bolts in acetone then brush clean with a brass brush. Its going to take me a while but when im done it will be like a new saw. The bearings do seem like they are in good shape. I've never messed with points before so I'll have to learn. I actually have two EZ's Im working on right now. The other one I purchased off of craigslist for $15. The body is not as nice as the other but the piston and cylinder look good. I have both mufflers in an electrolysis bath right now. Post the serial numbers of both saws for dating. You've come to the right place for any questions regarding Homelite products. |
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Post by jasonrkba on Feb 11, 2019 1:20:17 GMT -5
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Post by jasonrkba on Feb 11, 2019 1:21:49 GMT -5
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Post by jasonrkba on Feb 11, 2019 1:23:37 GMT -5
The one with the curled sticker is the one completely torn down. The other I have barely started on.
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Post by 5terrysupersaws on Feb 11, 2019 3:51:59 GMT -5
UT: 104033 ( CG-SEZ-AO ) SN: 28272013x ..built Friday, September 29th, of 1978 ..(last year built '80)
UT: 10403A ( CG-SEZ-AO ) SN: 283320151 ..built Tuesday, November 28th, of 1978, unit 151 ..(last built '80)
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Post by jasonrkba on Feb 11, 2019 9:35:42 GMT -5
Built fairly close together. Pretty neat.
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Post by blythkd on Feb 11, 2019 10:54:45 GMT -5
Built fairly close together. Pretty neat. I noticed that too. Built within 2 months of each other, yet different UT numbers. Maybe you'll figure out the difference between the 2 models. It probably doesn't amount to much.
In my opinion, you have 2 of the best vintage SEZ saws. They're late enough to enjoy most of the improvements to the SEZ line yet still have the dependable breaker point ignition system. The later electronic ignition has unfortunately shelved most of the later saws. These 2 also have the best starter assembly rather than the newer plastic stuff that came along soon after yours were built.
Well worth spending some time and money on them.
Best of luck.
Edit: BTW, I mentioned the drivecase O-ring yesterday as pn 65018. It hit me late last night that I had quoted the wrong pn. I believe 65018 is the base gasket, required for cylinder removal/replacement. Anyway, I believe that's accurate now, hope I'm not wrong again!!
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Post by jasonrkba on Feb 11, 2019 14:09:48 GMT -5
Two different mufflers.  |
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Post by blythkd on Feb 11, 2019 18:24:25 GMT -5
Hmmm, the one on the left is pretty common. The one on the right, not so much. Maybe it's CARB-compliant?! There's a lot of West Coast differences that many folks on this site recognize but don't look familiar to me being from KS. |
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Post by jasonrkba on Feb 11, 2019 18:24:33 GMT -5
They also have different coils. One is blue and the other is grey.
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Post by 5terrysupersaws on Feb 11, 2019 18:30:09 GMT -5
They also have different coils. One is blue and the other is grey. That would make the blue (Prestolite) solid state ignition. Had spark ? |
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Post by jasonrkba on Feb 11, 2019 18:53:47 GMT -5
I haven't checked yet. I have to rebuild the carburetor and change the lines and I think it will be runner so long as the coil is good. I've been cleaning the heck out of it but I didn't do my normal complete disassemble and clean. I will order some stuff on Friday then hopefully she will be good to go.
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