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Post by The Lumberjack Preacher on Jan 23, 2019 14:28:37 GMT -5
oh, something else i think I should mention. It does not have an sdc 60, but an sdc 74 carb.
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Post by rarefish383 on Jan 24, 2019 8:05:33 GMT -5
Since we figured that this is my old saw, if you are using the carb that came with it, be careful of the front right screw on the top plate. That's the one that was starting to strip, and the screw backed out letting it suck air.
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Post by sweepleader on Jan 24, 2019 8:14:24 GMT -5
I would clean up the burrs on that one port and not touch anything else. Make it run with the base gasket installed and see what I had before I did any mods. There is no way I would ever put any glue in there, I am quite certain that it would come loose with the heat involved. It may or may not damage stuff then but why take that chance? It IS your saw, just saying how I could feel about it, but then, I don't think I would put new parts on that cylinder and risk them either.
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Post by undee70ss on Jan 24, 2019 9:55:47 GMT -5
I would clean up the burrs on that one port and not touch anything else. Make it run with the base gasket installed and see what I had before I did any mods. There is no way I would ever put any glue in there, I am quite certain that it would come loose with the heat involved. It may or may not damage stuff then but why take that chance? It IS your saw, just saying how I could feel about it, but then, I don't think I would put new parts on that cylinder and risk them either. Aftermarket pistons are not to expensive. I would try Dan’s suggestion first. |
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Post by The Lumberjack Preacher on Jan 24, 2019 10:58:26 GMT -5
Since we figured that this is my old saw, if you are using the carb that came with it, be careful of the front right screw on the top plate. That's the one that was starting to strip, and the screw backed out letting it suck air. Ironically, it came with no screws for the top plate. I had a spare sdc and those screws tightened up just fine. Ill keep an eye on them though. |
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Post by The Lumberjack Preacher on Jan 24, 2019 11:02:02 GMT -5
I would clean up the burrs on that one port and not touch anything else. Make it run with the base gasket installed and see what I had before I did any mods. There is no way I would ever put any glue in there, I am quite certain that it would come loose with the heat involved. It may or may not damage stuff then but why take that chance? It IS your saw, just saying how I could feel about it, but then, I don't think I would put new parts on that cylinder and risk them either. Aftermarket pistons are not to expensive. I would try Dan’s suggestion first. Fair enough. I have ordered a new piston, so a simple clean up of the burs may be the route i go. I only include the jb weld option as it was suggested to me from someone i trust. I have those same concerns. Doing a compression test on this saw before the incident showed 235 psi (and holding!!!) However i had assembled with 30 weight oil. I suspect that number would come down as the oil is burned off and the rings seat. As of right now the saw has been disassembled and cleaned, the tank cleaned and resealed, ignition sorted, and is almost ready for reassembly with a new piston. The cylinder is my next hang up, but i feel confident going forward. |
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Post by The Lumberjack Preacher on Jan 24, 2019 19:44:52 GMT -5
Okay. Here is some of the port work i did. I cleaned up the exhaust and widened it a little and raised the ceiling less than .010. I also smoothed out the dent, but that was it. With the reed valve setup i dont think mild porting would do much so i let the intake be. Check one of the earlier pics to see how bad the exhaust was.   |
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Post by sweepleader on Jan 24, 2019 19:57:01 GMT -5
Well, it just might work out, who knows? Won't know till you try it. We will hope for the best.
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Post by The Lumberjack Preacher on Jan 24, 2019 20:04:41 GMT -5
Well, it just might work out, who knows? Won't know till you try it. We will hope for the best. I asked over on arborist site too and one fella said hes done this plenty of times and you never notice. Realistically, i think its the best option without getting a new cylinder. |
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Post by The Lumberjack Preacher on Jan 25, 2019 21:15:17 GMT -5
Alright everybody,it finally happened!! youtu.be/dpxsi1u3DIkThe big bad 1050 runs! Once the spark issue was sorted (pinched the killswitch wire under the points) it came to life on the first pull. Its about 9pm when i shot this so i wasn't going to let it run much (neighbors live close) but i couldnt help but smile and be happy. More to come for sure! |
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Post by edju1958 on Jan 25, 2019 21:36:27 GMT -5
Congratulations! Makes you feel good when good things like that happen,huh? Ed
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Post by The Lumberjack Preacher on Jan 25, 2019 22:00:43 GMT -5
Congratulations! Makes you feel good when good things like that happen,huh? Ed
Itll feel even better with the bar buried in some big oak |
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Post by The Lumberjack Preacher on Jan 27, 2019 17:33:55 GMT -5
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Post by chainsawlady on Jan 27, 2019 19:00:14 GMT -5
I have one new Oregon #52 99Drive chain - $39.60. One used Oregon #59 Oregon chain 50% use left in chain
$20.00. Both are .404 - .063 chains. I think your 30" bar uses 95 drives. You can make these shorter. Both plus postage.
joycewilson26@gmail.com cainsawlady
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Post by The Lumberjack Preacher on Jan 27, 2019 19:18:09 GMT -5
I have one new Oregon #52 99Drive chain - $39.60. One used Oregon #59 Oregon chain 50% use left in chain $20.00. Both are .404 - .063 chains. I think your 30" bar uses 95 drives. You can make these shorter. Both plus postage. joycewilson26@gmail.com cainsawlady Thanks joyce. Ill send you an email sometime. |
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Post by undee70ss on Jan 27, 2019 19:22:42 GMT -5
Hey everybody. I have finally got this saw in running and cutting condition! There were a million little things to sort out but its finally ready for work. I have a 30 inch bar for it, if only i could find that length .404 chain. The 20+ inch bar looks so small! youtu.be/j3YrEnphJGkPost pics and any numbers on the bar. Homelite didn't make a 30 inch bar for these. They did make one for the 750, 925 ect series of saws though. |
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Post by The Lumberjack Preacher on Jan 27, 2019 19:25:03 GMT -5
Hey everybody. I have finally got this saw in running and cutting condition! There were a million little things to sort out but its finally ready for work. I have a 30 inch bar for it, if only i could find that length .404 chain. The 20+ inch bar looks so small! youtu.be/j3YrEnphJGkPost pics and any numbers on the bar. Homelite didn't make a 30 inch bar for these. They did make one for the 750, 925 ect series of saws though. The bar isn't a homelite, its a Carlton bushmaster hardnose bar i bought off eBay. It came with 3/8 pitch .063 gauge |
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Post by undee70ss on Jan 27, 2019 20:55:34 GMT -5
The bar isn't a homelite, its a Carlton bushmaster hardnose bar i bought off eBay. It came with 3/8 pitch .063 gauge You can do the conversion to figure it out. How many drive links on the 3/8 chain? Then you can determine how many needed for 404. |
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Post by The Lumberjack Preacher on Jan 27, 2019 20:56:22 GMT -5
The bar isn't a homelite, its a Carlton bushmaster hardnose bar i bought off eBay. It came with 3/8 pitch .063 gauge You can do the conversion to figure it out. How many drive links on the 3/8 chain? Then you can determine how many needed for 404. Whats the math on that? |
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Post by undee70ss on Jan 27, 2019 21:09:50 GMT -5
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