|
|
Post by The Lumberjack Preacher on Jan 11, 2019 8:21:25 GMT -5
Not that it probably matters now, but I would bet the saw was run with the two cylinder studs on the unbroken side loose. I suppose you might want to check to see if they are properly secured in the crankcase... Good call, two seem to be further out, however they are secure. |
|
|
|
Post by The Lumberjack Preacher on Jan 11, 2019 8:21:42 GMT -5
Your saw should have a Walbro SDC60 carb. If it is missing parts, like a cover, you can use one from another SDC carb, but you don’t want to use a carb from a smaller saw. Thanks |
|
|
|
Post by stillsawing on Jan 11, 2019 18:56:39 GMT -5
Both, a 60 and a 74.
|
|
|
|
Post by The Lumberjack Preacher on Jan 18, 2019 14:42:05 GMT -5
Okay guys, a bit of an update on the saw build.
Its mostly together at this point, still need to confirm spark and the carb, clean the fuel tank and install new lines and a filter, and get my chain pitch sorted.
I have done a compression test, and on my low reading gauge it creeped up to about 125. HOWEVER, it was so hard to pull over from compression i couldnt pull it over twice. Im not entirely sure I am enough man to start this saw now. LOL. And yes, that is from compression. Take the plug out and it spins over real nice.
I have done pressure and vac tests and the seals are good.
The starter recoil spring was broken into a billion pieces, so I modified one from an sxl and it works perfectly.
I ordered a bearing and race from Leons, so this saw isnt far from making a lot of noise.
It came with two mufflers, one is missing the face plate but is in really good shape. The other is complete but is hashed and broken.
I have a NOS oregon 14026 rim sprocket, but it is for .404 chain which i dont have. I do have a fairly new 3/8 full comp chain and a 30 inch hardnose bar i would like to run, but sourcing the right rim sprocket is becoming difficult. ALL of the dealers around me dont carry oregon parts and just carry stihl stuff. I did grab a 3/8 stihl large rim, so if it fits great. Does anyone have suggestions or know of the right oregon part number for a 3/8 rim that would fit?
I do have 3/8 rims for my super XL's and C51, but I havent checked to see if those fit just yet.
Im pretty excited to get this bad boy going!
|
|
|
|
Post by undee70ss on Jan 18, 2019 15:00:48 GMT -5
First, how many spline rim?  Determine that before buying anything |
|
|
|
Post by sweepleader on Jan 18, 2019 15:12:55 GMT -5
I have an "S" brand rim on my XL-500. I mounted it so the brand name is inside and cannot be seen unless the rim is removed from the saw. It works fine but I will never admit that in public.
|
|
|
|
Post by The Lumberjack Preacher on Jan 18, 2019 15:13:48 GMT -5
First, how many spline rim? Determine that before buying anything Oops.... lol I will have to double check when I get home, but i was told on the facebook page that my model number is a 6 spline rim. The stihl unit i just picked up is a 7 spline. |
|
|
|
Post by The Lumberjack Preacher on Jan 18, 2019 15:17:54 GMT -5
I have an "S" brand rim on my XL-500. I mounted it so the brand name is inside and cannot be seen unless the rim is removed from the saw. It works fine but I will never admit that in public. All the shops around here are stihl. So if I can find a part that crosses over well im all about it. Some of there stuff is good, this rim I picked up is beefy |
|
|
|
Post by edju1958 on Jan 18, 2019 15:35:28 GMT -5
As the old saying goes"parts are parts".They're all pretty much made by only a couple of mfgrs.anyway.Many people don't know this,but McCulloch D096 & Homelite D096 bars were interchangeable.They both had the same oil hole configurations & mounting slots.Once the paint is off no one can tell the difference anyway.I suppose there are people out there though that this would weigh heavily on their conscience. Ed
|
|
|
|
Post by sweepleader on Jan 18, 2019 16:02:50 GMT -5
I have an "M" brand bar on my XL-500, 32". I did remove the "M" brand logo but the numbers stamped in the steel were too tough for me, I left them. Hmm, this seems to be a recurring theme, eh?
|
|
|
|
Post by rarefish383 on Jan 18, 2019 17:49:43 GMT -5
I came to the show a little late. I would not do anything to raise the compression. It does not have a decomp and will rip your fingers off as is when it kicks back. It’s a bit of a coincidence, I gave a friend in Minnesota one of my Super 1050’S 4 XL12s and a few other saws. I was pretty clear to him, I thought, I was only giving him the 1050 if he restored it. It was a special saw to me because it was one of the last of my Dads saws. I know Steve wouldn’t do that. Anyway, if it turns out to be my old saw, you have my blessings. Please do the best you can getting it back in shape. I put a NovaII in one of my other 1050’s and it runs great. The other one still has points. I think the points saw starts easier. Some one told me the chip advances the timing a little making it harder to crank. Good luck with your project.
|
|
|
|
Post by rarefish383 on Jan 18, 2019 18:05:51 GMT -5
I just went back and read the rest of the thread. It does sound like it’s my old saw, from the extra parts you got. You still have my blessing, but if you put a 3/8 on it, I wish the pox on you. I’ve got a 24” on one and a 36” on the other of my 1050’s. I can’t tell any difference in power loss from the 36 running in Red Oak. I bough a 45” from Greg a while back just to see if that will pull it down, that’s all with 404. The other thing I’ve found milling with 404 is it will snip a nail off and never flinch. 3/8 will nock the edge off every tooth before you can pull back on it. If I had a source, I’d go up to 1/2” chain. Good luck again, Joe.
|
|
|
|
Post by The Lumberjack Preacher on Jan 20, 2019 16:30:35 GMT -5
I came to the show a little late. I would not do anything to raise the compression. It does not have a decomp and will rip your fingers off as is when it kicks back. It’s a bit of a coincidence, I gave a friend in Minnesota one of my Super 1050’S 4 XL12s and a few other saws. I was pretty clear to him, I thought, I was only giving him the 1050 if he restored it. It was a special saw to me because it was one of the last of my Dads saws. I know Steve wouldn’t do that. Anyway, if it turns out to be my old saw, you have my blessings. Please do the best you can getting it back in shape. I put a NovaII in one of my other 1050’s and it runs great. The other one still has points. I think the points saw starts easier. Some one told me the chip advances the timing a little making it harder to crank. Good luck with your project. Hey Joe, I'm just now seeing this. You said you gave it to steve? I got mine from a fellow named Steve. Turns out I am running 404, he shipped a chain and two bars after the fact. If this was your saw I have a few questions id like to send you in a message. |
|
|
|
Post by The Lumberjack Preacher on Jan 20, 2019 16:33:44 GMT -5
Second update, got the saw assembled and ready to go. Went to turn it over and it ran a few gpod seconds. However......after the saw shut off i turned it over a few more times and then it stopped...hard
Turns out a washer was in the crankcase (i checked, i swear i did) and it lodged between the piston and cylinder.
New piston is on order, i think the cylinder will be okay. A small knick is left right on the upper side of the intake port.
Anyway, feeling pretty upset over this turn of events. I could have a running saw right now if i had been more vigilant, just never expected it to be in there. Lesson learned
|
|
|
|
Post by The Lumberjack Preacher on Jan 22, 2019 15:42:02 GMT -5
OKAY, another question.
I am debating doing some mild port work to the jug and a base gasket delete. This saw has the SDC60 fixed high speed jet. Common sense tells me that if I modify the saw to breath better it will want more fuel, which I would normally tune for but this carb has a fixed high speed jet.
In your great and infinite wisdom, will an adjustable high speed be necessary? I remember reading somewhere about converting it to an adjustable set up.
I also have a known good tillotson 141d from a c51 that I could install, as those are what the saw originally came with.
What are your thoughts on all of this?
|
|
|
|
Post by sweepleader on Jan 22, 2019 15:59:07 GMT -5
You may want to get it running right before you make any mods, if something is wrong when you try to run it, it may be very difficult to figure out what it is.
|
|
|
|
Post by stillsawing on Jan 22, 2019 17:56:21 GMT -5
Yep, 6 spline, 8 tooth, .404 rim. That's the way my 1050 is setup. I like the idea of what rarefish mentioned about running a 1/2",1 just wished it was easier to find. Going to run the new Oregon EXL, .404/.063. Aside from a vacuum pump, what is needed to preform the test on the crankcase and seals? Let us know how your saw runs when the time comes. Has anyone had luck at removing the foil tape UT tags and reattaching them?
|
|
|
|
Post by The Lumberjack Preacher on Jan 23, 2019 13:47:30 GMT -5
You may want to get it running right before you make any mods, if something is wrong when you try to run it, it may be very difficult to figure out what it is. The extent of port work would be cleaning up the ports and smoothing them out. Intake and exhaust ports desperately need chamfering (rounding of the edges so rings dont catch. The reason: as mentioned above one intake port has a dent from a washer. The hope is that doing a base gasket delete and raising the exhaust about .020-.040 will counter the raised intake port. The dent in question is approximately 1/8 inch wide and 1/8 inch tall. .125 is a massive amount of port timing and I think it may lead to short circuiting. A friend suggested filling the damaged part with jb weld and grinding it down just enough so the rings dont touch it, however my fear is that it would fall off and wreck the top end. And yes, I am sticking with .404 chain since i was able to obtain some. |
|
|
|
Post by The Lumberjack Preacher on Jan 23, 2019 13:49:30 GMT -5
Yep, 6 spline, 8 tooth, .404 rim. That's the way my 1050 is setup. I like the idea of what rarefish mentioned about running a 1/2",1 just wished it was easier to find. Going to run the new Oregon EXL, .404/.063. Aside from a vacuum pump, what is needed to preform the test on the crankcase and seals? Let us know how your saw runs when the time comes. Has anyone had luck at removing the foil tape UT tags and reattaching them? what length bar does yours have and how does the saw handle it? I had the intake manifold off and used a block of wood with the hose sealed to it, and then clamped that over the intake and put a piece of rubber under the muffler and tighted it down. Then proceed with a spray bottle of soapy water. Basically, you need to seal off the intake, exhaust, and introduce a pressure and vacuum to check the seals and base gasket. |
|
|
|
Post by The Lumberjack Preacher on Jan 23, 2019 13:53:33 GMT -5
|
|
Determine that before buying anything 
