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Post by Deleted on Oct 12, 2018 21:59:52 GMT -5
I did find an NOS intake on eBay but Leon has all the gaskets so I may go that route with the used one. I like to get all my parts from one place if I can when I order
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Post by rowdy235 on Oct 12, 2018 22:54:44 GMT -5
I think the set screw is worth trying for the tank, I don't see how it wouldn't work, and if for whatever reason it doesn't you're not out anything except your time and maybe a minimal cost for the screw
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Post by Deleted on Oct 13, 2018 4:50:07 GMT -5
Screws are cheap, we have bins full of them at work...hmmm...did I say that out loud?
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Post by Deleted on Oct 13, 2018 10:16:07 GMT -5
My mistake, not only has a 12-24 set screw been hard to find they are expensive. McMaster-Carr didn’t have them MSC doesn’t but they are $75 for 100. Our bins at work skipped over them went from 10-24 to 1/4 20
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Post by rowdy235 on Oct 13, 2018 10:25:40 GMT -5
Could you possibly cut down a machine screw and cut a notch in the end to drive with a small flat screwdriver? My best idea. Lol
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Post by Deleted on Oct 13, 2018 10:42:09 GMT -5
Actually that sounds doable if I don’t find a set screw I may try it
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Post by rowdy235 on Oct 13, 2018 12:32:19 GMT -5
I wont charge you any royalties. Lol
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Post by fossil on Oct 14, 2018 18:53:17 GMT -5
If you can get the FW side tank half off, you can JB Weld the holes shut.
Something to check before you get going; make sure the longer bolts weren't used because most of the threads in the holes are stripped. If they are, you made need a different plan. My recollection is that the bosses in the tank may be too small a diameter to insert.
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Post by rowdy235 on Oct 14, 2018 23:03:11 GMT -5
Good ideas by Fossil. Of course, if possible to avoid splitting the tank I certainly would lol
Regardless of the method, I don't know if I'd use JB weld. It does tolerate fuel well but for something that is constantly exposed I'd prefer a fuel-specific product. They sell a two-part epoxy specifically made to repair fuel tanks that I would use if you end up having to split the tank.
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Post by fossil on Oct 15, 2018 20:22:51 GMT -5
JB Weld has stood up well in mine.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 17, 2018 18:49:53 GMT -5
Ok so I get the tank cover off tonight and unbeknownst to me that's also the oil cover, I guess if I would've paid more attention to the IPL I would've known, anyway what a mess. But in order to do this I pulled the flywheel and there is a round black thing with 5036 on it and a big glob of silicone at between 1 and 2 o'clock. I'm assuming now that I have the 2 piece ignition, I believe that is how it is referred to, any insight on how this works. www.flickr.com/photos/138659658@N05/shares/g248FT
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Post by Clasec on Nov 17, 2018 19:27:24 GMT -5
Are you needing to remove it? If so you will have to remove the white colored silicone to access the wire connections. Make sure to keep the wires in order for replacement. The three screws hold it on. It's actually a 3 piece ignition.
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Post by 5terrysupersaws on Nov 17, 2018 19:28:09 GMT -5
Ok so I get the tank cover off tonight and unbeknownst to me that's also the oil cover, I guess if I would've paid more attention to the IPL I would've known, anyway what a mess. But in order to do this I pulled the flywheel and there is a round black thing with 5036 on it and a big glob of silicone at between 1 and 2 o'clock. I'm assuming now that I have the 2 piece ignition, I believe that is how it is referred to, any insight on how this works. www.flickr.com/photos/138659658@N05/shares/g248FTThat is the 3-piece Capacitor Discharge Ignition system.It consists of the Module (black round thing), Generator Coil, and Transformer Coil. For a better explanation of how it works and how to test, than I can achieve, have a look at the Homelite service manual 5th edition beginning on page B-23.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 17, 2018 19:33:38 GMT -5
Is it supposed to have that blob of silicone on there around 1 o’clock?
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Post by Clasec on Nov 17, 2018 19:40:04 GMT -5
The ones on mine don't.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 17, 2018 19:42:08 GMT -5
Starting to wonder if I shouldn’t be in the market for another super XL 925 and make this one a parts saw
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Post by Clasec on Nov 17, 2018 19:47:16 GMT -5
I think whoever put the silicone on there probably didn't have a good connection or another problem they were working on and trying to cover all the bases. I haven't had a problem with the CD ignition on these. Knock on wood.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 17, 2018 19:51:50 GMT -5
I hope the bar oil doesn’t have an adverse effect on it wish I had paid more attention I would’ve drained that when I drained the gas...excuse me...fuel mix
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Post by Clasec on Nov 17, 2018 20:15:29 GMT -5
I doubt if oil would damage it. I'm more worried about damage from the solvents when cleaning them. The parts were built to resist oil and fuel mix.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 19, 2018 21:55:51 GMT -5
Ok got my new tank cover and gasket in today. Has anyone ever used a new gasket in the fuel tank? I got both sides all cleaned as well as I’ve ever cleaned any gasket surface but didn’t know if for the fuel tank should I use some sort of sealant with it. I must admit to a mistake in the past, when I rebuilt my C-72 this time last year I had that tank apart cleaned it well and didn’t use a gasket, I used RTV. Of course as usual I read later where you shouldn’t use it because gas will leak through it but knock on wood it hasn’t leaked yet. In the event in does though I have a new gasket waiting for it too
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