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Post by stormydog on Aug 22, 2018 16:05:13 GMT -5
I have an old Homelite XL2 Automatic from my Dad. Still runs great except it now will only run if you hold throttle down. If slightest release it dies. Took in for service and was told clutch was not releasing and no parts are available.
Any ideas on exactly why a "S" clutch would not release?
I think I need at least these parts, anything else I need to look for?
Clutch sprocket with bearings, "S" clutch, old style Split ring (told not to reuse so any replacements?)
Only model number on saw is XL2 Auto
Serial number.:44720801
My Owners Manual Parts diagram does not list any model other than I just listed "XL2 Auto".
Parts diagram only contains part name and the illistration picture number. Nothing to look up parts by number.
I know it is an early model because the on/off switch is a toggle, all others Ive seen are rocker.
Some web sites never list XL2 Auto but have lots of XL2's with a UT# I have no idea what to look for.
Most of these part diagrams are not for my saw. No one has info on my specific XL2. I would think parts are interchangable but not being a service person, I have no idea.
Do you need any other info from me. What can you do to help me replace the clutch?
Thanks you very much for you service and time,
Ronald Cox
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Post by onlyhomelites on Aug 22, 2018 23:16:24 GMT -5
Hi Ronald, welcome to HOH! There's two possibilities here: - List item 1
- List item 2
Either way, it's not the end of the world. The clutch is a 69070 or A-70351-A (same part, the later number comes with a washer). Your clutch drum should be a A-95653-*, which comes with a new bearing and snap ring. If you have to replace the clutch or drum, you'll need to pull the engine from the case. I have a video that details that part: I also have an IPL that will serve you well here: www.leonschainsawpartsandrepair.com/uploads/3/9/7/9/39792537/homelite_xl-2_chainsaw_ipl_24752.pdfLet us know how it goes! |
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Post by sweepleader on Aug 23, 2018 7:28:35 GMT -5
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ctbale
Collector wannabe
Posts: 18
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Post by ctbale on Aug 23, 2018 23:12:06 GMT -5
Maybe it needs a carb rebuild also? But wont know that until after the clutch is releasing.
I am going to do my carb rebuild, but waiting on gasket material for where it mounts to the cylinder. The gaskets are more then the kit was, and with a razer knife and my hole punch kit I think I can make my own.
post a follow up on your clutch rebuild, nice to have that info on this forum.
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Post by stormydog on Aug 28, 2018 1:21:16 GMT -5
Thanks so much for the video, just what I need as I have never taken any chain saw apart before so I am both afraid and eager to learn.
I have had no problems with starting and running the saw so I hope a carberator rebuild will not be needed. Gosh that would scare me more.
I have no idea why the clutch would not release. Maybe bearings? I can turn the drum just fine by hand. It runs the chain just fine only if the throttle is held down. If I release the throttle even slightly, it dies. Does this offer any ideas to anybody?
I truly am alone with the saw as my service shop basically told me to go away. So any help (information, how-to's) is greatly appreciated.
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Post by undee70ss on Aug 28, 2018 4:37:31 GMT -5
Thanks so much for the video, just what I need as I have never taken any chain saw apart before so I am both afraid and eager to learn. I have had no problems with starting and running the saw so I hope a carberator rebuild will not be needed. Gosh that would scare me more. I have no idea why the clutch would not release. Maybe bearings? I can turn the drum just fine by hand. It runs the chain just fine only if the throttle is held down. If I release the throttle even slightly, it dies. Does this offer any ideas to anybody? I truly am alone with the saw as my service shop basically told me to go away. So any help (information, how-to's) is greatly appreciated. Well... from what you describe, the clutch and sprocket bearing is fine. Your problem sounds like the carb needs rebuilt, or the points need cleaned/replaced. Troubleshooting is process of elimination. I would not use that saw shop any more, since they can’t even give a honest answer. |
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Post by undee70ss on Aug 28, 2018 5:31:09 GMT -5
I truly am alone with the saw as my service shop basically told me to go away. So any help (information, how-to's) is greatly appreciated. You are definitely not alone here, and there are plenty of options. Did you download the service manual I posted (in the other thread you started). What kind of machicanical experience do you have? Have you worked on any small engines before? Generally, a saw this old will need a carb kit, new lines/filters and duckbills and possibility the exhaust port cleaned and ignition checked for it all to work properly. If you think you can do that, we all here can help you. You can download parts lists (IPL) owners manuals and service manuals free. Another option is Leon (this sites admin) works on saws for other people. many of his vids are customer saws. You would have to ask him on prices and turn around times. |
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Post by sweepleader on Aug 28, 2018 11:09:23 GMT -5
What undee said is good stuff.
The easiest, low cost thing to check is the points. First thing along those lines is see if the spark is good and strong. If that proves out then the carb, lines and duck bills in any order you choose. Look over the IPL and the service manual. The investment will be mostly your time. Best of luck, ask any questions you have, we will do our best to help.
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Post by onlyhomelites on Aug 28, 2018 18:50:23 GMT -5
If I release the throttle even slightly, it dies. Does this offer any ideas to anybody? This sure sounds like a carburetor problem. They are not bad to work on though...if you pull your saw down and get me the manufacturer (Walbro, Tillotson, Zama), I can do a video of a rebuild and what it takes. The other possibility is a broken clutch. I'd take your drum off and check. When you spin the drum over, do you hear/feel any drag at all? The above advice is very sound...these old saws always need new hoses, duckbills, sprocket and spark plug. In really worn models, new crank seals are in order, but that is less common. |
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ctbale
Collector wannabe
Posts: 18
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Post by ctbale on Aug 29, 2018 3:09:10 GMT -5
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Post by stormydog on Aug 29, 2018 14:53:19 GMT -5
What a fantastic response. Thank you! I will probably start real slow and slowly progress and I am sure asking questions along the way.
Undee70ss: I have downloaded the service manual, briefly skimmed it. I have always liked/wanted to work on my own equioment but am deathly afraid of carberator issues. My fear is that I would screw settings up and never get it started again!?! I've never taken engines apart before so my experience is very limited. The services you listed will be somethings I am willing to try if parts are available.
sweepleader: If the saw starts and runs are you thinking something is the carb prevents the idle speed? The service shop simply said "clutch is not releasing to allow it to return to idle". Duckbills? I have some learning to do.
Onlyhomelites: Thanks for help with what is needed for carb rebuild - I WILL NEED IT!
ccbale: Good advice given. Making a checklist, Thanks
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Post by sweepleader on Aug 29, 2018 15:03:52 GMT -5
I think you have the clutch deal backwards. The clutch engages as the engine speed goes above normal idle, which would be about as slow as the engine will run. The engine speed controls the clutch engagement, the clutch does not control the engine speed. Carb faults often prevent normal idling, along with other difficulties. Like ctbale said above, forget the clutch till you get the engine running. Take off the bar and chain and work on the engine.
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Post by stormydog on Aug 30, 2018 14:09:46 GMT -5
I was quoting what the service shop told me. "The clutch was not releasing and allowing it to go to idle". I knew nothing about the clutch operaton then and took them at their expert diagnosis (which I had to pay for). But I always felt that engine speed does control engagement of the clutch. But I knew nothing of why the clutch would do that, so that is why I am here.
Help me understand how the clutch works. The "S" clutch with bearing is on the crankshaft. The sprocket and hub has its own bearing and is on the crankshaft. I assume the clutch does spin at idle, but when engine speed is increased it starts spinning faster. Does the centrifical force of the "S" clutch cause it to expand somehow and contact the inside of the sprocket hub? Causing the sprocket to spin. That is my non-professional understanding.
So the solid hunk of metal that is the "S" clutch, the arms actually expand? When my service shop told me the clutch was not releasing, were they probably thinking
the clutch remained in contact with the hub? I am just trying to determine if the shop gave me a line of bull or possibly there is something to it - but of course they did not want to work on it, that I know for a fact.
At any rate, thanks for the great suggestions and information here and I will create a checklist and on my own go thru the saw myself checking things out.
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Post by onlyhomelites on Aug 30, 2018 18:13:26 GMT -5
Help me understand how the clutch works. The "S" clutch with bearing is on the crankshaft. The sprocket and hub has its own bearing and is on the crankshaft. I assume the clutch does spin at idle, but when engine speed is increased it starts spinning faster. Does the centrifical force of the "S" clutch cause it to expand somehow and contact the inside of the sprocket hub? Causing the sprocket to spin. That is my non-professional understanding. EXACTLY RIGHT! The only way it could not release is if one side has broken off and jammed it up. You would hear this piece moving/rattling when you turned the drum by hand if this was the case. |
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Post by undee70ss on Aug 30, 2018 20:15:12 GMT -5
]Help me understand how the clutch works. The "S" clutch with bearing is on the crankshaft. The sprocket and hub has its own bearing and is on the crankshaft. . The clutch doesn’t have a bearing. It is screwed on to the crankshaft with left handed threads. It takes a special tool ( or make one) to remove the clutch. This series of saws have a inboard clutch design ( clutch on inside, sprocket on outside). Generally the clutch never needs to come off unless major work is being done to the saw. |
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Post by stormydog on Sept 12, 2018 14:34:03 GMT -5
Well, the clutch spins freely both by hand and when running. I have to hold throttle wide open otherwise saw quits running.
I did not know about the clutch screwed on. when I get there I will be curious on how to make a tool.
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