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Post by discovery2 on Jul 5, 2021 2:33:55 GMT -5
Hi I have a problem with a saw pulling to the left. I can hardly get more than 4 inches into a piece of timber before it is stuck. The saw is a xl automatic with a 24inch bar. I picked it up from a reclaim yard £35 runs great but won't cut. I have sharpened the chain and measured every tooth with a vernieer caliper and they are within 0.3mm of each other. I filled the depth gauges but still no better. I'm thinking the bar rails may have spread allowing the chain to lean over in fact it looks like it is leaning to the left. I think I have just answered my own question but Amy advice would be great.
Best wishes William
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Post by Homelite Homer on Jul 5, 2021 4:25:33 GMT -5
Yes sir... Sure sounds like you answered you own question !! Now.. depends on how bad it is and it sounds like it's pretty bad "stops cutting after 4 inches" Oregon bar rail dresser > #111439 Works great for evening up the rails.. Bar rail closer > Ebay Link to tool
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Post by charles on Jul 5, 2021 5:10:13 GMT -5
It is possible you have the wrong gauge chain on the bar ! Post any numbers from the bar and chain to see
if that's the problem .
Charles
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Post by blythkd on Jul 5, 2021 9:11:41 GMT -5
If the chain is leaning, another thing to inspect is the height of the bar rails. If they're uneven heights, they need to be evened up. That was easy years ago when I worked in a shop that had a bar rail grinder. Now my solution is a flat file. Clamp the bar in a vise and carefully run a good flat file over the rails trying to keep it as level as possible. I like my biggest file for this job so I can get both hands on it and put good pressure on it.
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Post by tangobravo on Jul 5, 2021 9:17:10 GMT -5
Another quick check for the rail levels is see if you can get it to stand on its top and bottom edges. Hope you get that Bert Blyeleven saw straightened out.
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Post by discovery2 on Jul 5, 2021 15:56:09 GMT -5
Hi thanks for the input I will have a look at the rails tomorrow I was thinking I could use a set square to check to see if the rails are even. I am looking at making a guide bar rail closer like the one I received the link for. I can't seem to find them in the UK so I have the tools and the means so I will make one. I have been around saws for 30 years but never had one cut on such a curve. I will post the bar and chain details to check it's the correct chain for the bar. I dont think its a chain sharening issue because it cuts like Billyo (fast) until it gets stuck.
Thanks for the advice so far Best wishes William
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Post by discovery2 on Jul 7, 2021 14:02:53 GMT -5
Hi just a quick update on my curve cutting saw I took the chain off and I can actually feel a difference in the height of the rails so I put a set square on it and there is definitely one rail higher than the other which seems to coincide with the way it cuts. The chain is quite slack in the groove ad well. I wondered if anyone knows what the gap should be. I could measure it at the clutch end where the chain feeds into the rail. I also have the bar and chain numbers. It's a Stihl 3/8 Chain the only numbers on it are 3 on the drive links and x1 on some of the side plates. The bar is an Oregon 7721 and has 23501603ua on it. I will have a go at levelling up the rails. Thanks for your help Best wishes William
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Post by tangobravo on Jul 7, 2021 15:14:44 GMT -5
Worn out rails can be tuned up, but unless it is a significant one (original/rare/sentimental) it is usually best to replace it with a new one. I have used a rail roller like in Leons youtube video to close the gaps, and an old Head ski edge file to square up the 2 rail heights. The roller works well but can crack the rails if it is too far worn, or if used to aggressively. The faces can be block sanded and then repainted with available stencils. It is a lot of work making bars right again! The gap depends on your chain gauge specification. Many are .050" but there are others. A worn bar often has a worn out chain too.
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Post by discovery2 on Jul 7, 2021 15:52:48 GMT -5
Thanks for your reply. The bar is nothing special to be honest but I have had a go at levelling up the rails I got a engineers square and clamped it to a file it seems to be doing the job the thick part of the square runs against the face of the bar to help keep the file square . When I rested the square across the rails it was very easy to see the rails were at different heights. I agree probably best to replace the bar but I will persevere I'm interested to see what I can do with it. The chain has a lot of life left it it looks quite new I wonder if it was replaced in an attempt to resolve the curving issue. I will let you know how it goes Best wishes William
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Post by discovery2 on Jul 17, 2021 17:21:13 GMT -5
Hi it's Will I have filed the rails so that they are about as level as I can get using a file and engineers steel square but it's still not much better it still cuts a curve to the left. I used feeler gauges to measure the rail gap and it measures about 61 thou. The gap seems to big but I don't understand why it only cuts to the left I would imagine a wavy or rough cut if the chain is too loose in the bar. The bar and chain both look pretty good not bent and no signs of over heating. It's frustrating me now because I can't see an obvious reason for the curve. I have had a look for a replacement bar but can't seem to find anything. It seems a shame to scrap the bar it's a 24inch sprocket nose bar. Any ideas?
Best wishes William
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Post by tangobravo on Jul 17, 2021 17:59:19 GMT -5
A few things could be wrong. The gauge of the bar and chain must match. There are several gauges. The drive link widths of your chain would be good to check. Should be within a couple thousandths of the bar width. The bars typically wear wide and any new chain would be too loose side to side. If you have a used chain, it can be worn down on one side that rides the bar rails and tilt the links to one side. The chains drive links can be worn too thin and cause too loose of a fit in the bar groove. An improperly sharpened chain with one side filed different angles can make it cut unevenly. Another thing to check would be the drive spurs or rim drive on the clutch drum. Bars can even be bent. Might check this link for some good information. www.ereplacementparts.com/repair-center/article/1507/Chainsaw_Chain_Measurements_Sizes_and_Types.html
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Post by discovery2 on Jul 18, 2021 2:55:58 GMT -5
Thanks for the link I just had a quick look at it and it's the clearest info I have ever seen I have measured the drive links and they are between 43 and 46 thou so in a bar with 61 thou groove I would think it's the wrong pitch chain or it's badly worn on the links. I will take it down to my local saw shop and get a new chain. Does any one know how to read the numbers on am Oregon bar to decider the pitch Best wishes William
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Post by Homelite Homer on Jul 18, 2021 7:07:27 GMT -5
Numbers on the bar please
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Post by blythkd on Jul 18, 2021 8:14:46 GMT -5
If you've got the bar trued up, I'd try a new chain next. Sounds like you did a pretty good job on the bar, I can't imagine it wouldn't cut straight with a new chain. The rail gap of .061 is a bit wide but not horrible. I've seen bars worn much worse that would still cut straight.
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Post by discovery2 on Jul 19, 2021 10:58:55 GMT -5
The guide bar numbers are 7721 23501603 ur it's an Oregon bar says patented 1971. Took the bar and chain to a local shop today as soon as I mentioned it was from a Homelite there was a look as if to say I must be an idiot then lots of teeth sucking he then decided that the bar is junk although he couldn't give any reason for the curve cutting and said I should throw the saw away because without all the safety kit I shouldn't use a chainsaw so I asked he class 2 boots and trousers were good enough to which he mumbled something and I left. Won't be going there again I had my first saw at 14 it was a mculloch pm370 I'm 47 now so and always had saws even did a stint In tree work . Mind you I still can't get this saw cutting straight . Best wishes William
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Post by Homelite Homer on Jul 19, 2021 22:05:47 GMT -5
Ok.. So from what I can gather the Oregon bar is the following... 24" Roller nose, 0.050 gauge, 3/8 chain, tail mount I beleive is a D196 but not absolutely sure it's a guess. But if this is the case between the bar groove and the worn chain.. you are about -19 to -20 thousands out of spec. Very Sloppy indeed. you can also look on the outside of the clutch drum to see if there are numbers and most clutch drums will have them.. 3/8, .325, 404 Etc.. this will also help ID the pitch in any case.
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Post by bobby167 on Jul 21, 2021 19:08:35 GMT -5
Check out this site. www.acresinternet.com Go to top of page and click on chain saws by manufacturer. It shows the D196 for HOMELITE-TEXRON XL. Previous poster is correct on bar number. Hope this can be helpful to you.
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Post by discovery2 on Jul 26, 2021 2:19:48 GMT -5
Hi it's Will I spent some time yesterday examining the guide bar and I think I have found the problem. The rails are different thicknesses. I measured the rails with a vernieer and the side which is thinnest happens to be the side the saw pulls too. I turned the bar over and it's worn on the same side. I am considering trying to close the gap in the rail by just hammering the worn side down. I might also gain a little by filing the rails down more because the groove is not so wide further down. The only other alternative would be a new bar but I can't seem to find anything to for these saws. Does anyone know of a replacement bar to fit these? Best wishes William.
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Post by Homelite Homer on Jul 27, 2021 20:23:01 GMT -5
Here ya go... This is the 24" bar and chain combo OREGON > Part# 240RNDD196
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Post by discovery2 on Jul 28, 2021 1:56:05 GMT -5
Hi it's Will thank you Homer I will have a go at the old bar but I think a replacement is going to be the anwser now. I would just like to say a big thank you to everyone who has taken the time to help me with this it's a great help and everyone seems to be happy to help. I have been on other forums (not for chainsaws) and people are sometimes very rude and totally unhelpful. Best wishes William
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