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Post by edju1958 on Jul 1, 2021 19:31:48 GMT -5
I've got a SXL-130 that I've had for almost 1 1/2 yrs.now & it's really baffling me as to why it screams at idle.I rebuilt the Tilly carb & have tried a new fuel line.I've also got the idle screw set to the point where it's not even doing anything.I've never had crank seals so bad that it'd make a saw scream this way.I checked the cylinder nuts to see if maybe the gasket was not tight enough & the most I got was a half turn.The crank seal would have to be almost non-existent in order to have an air leak that bad.I pulled the carb to check the reeds & they all look good & are seated.It starts fairly easy,so that would rule out a reed problem anyway.
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Post by Homelite Homer on Jul 1, 2021 20:00:08 GMT -5
Sure sounds a vacuum leak to me... Have you checked the carb's throttle flap to see if the screw is loose ?? Again... it does sound like a leak somewhere. Can you do a pressure/vacuum test ??
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Post by edju1958 on Jul 2, 2021 13:41:26 GMT -5
Yes,I have a MightyVac & I'll do a pressure test.I've got seals ordered.Even if the saw doesn't need the seals I can use them on another saw.The screw on the throttle flap seems to be tight.When replacing crank seals on the flywheel side,do I need to remove the torx screws & that plate?The IPL says the seal is pressed in.
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Post by xl130 on Jul 2, 2021 14:45:40 GMT -5
You do not “need” to pull the ignition backing plate but I have found that it’s a bit easier to drive the seal in when your only fumbling with that little plate instead of the whole saw.
I’ve done it both ways but it’s difficult no matter while way you do it because of that point bracket or whatever it is. It’s hard to get a washer in because it’s so close to the seal. It’s a pain to do that seal…
Just keep in mind that the ignition backing plate is pressed in and there is an o-ring that seals the plate not a gasket. You can pry the plate out by carefully working a screwdriver or pry bar under it and lift it out with even pressure. Be careful not to damage the sealing lip. Slow and steady is the key!
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Post by Homelite Homer on Jul 2, 2021 16:51:30 GMT -5
Hey Ed, Did you do the Vacuum/pressure test ?? I am curious about the results.. Those seals usually just pick right out on both sides with a skinny screw driver going in between the crank side and the rubber lip side of the seal and prying up and out as the metal part of the seals are very thin and soft. POP !!
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Post by edju1958 on Jul 2, 2021 18:13:20 GMT -5
Nope,I only got the flywheel pulled today,terrible headache.I still have to pull the clutch & oil pump on the PTO side & make up a couple of block off plates.I won't get things ready for a while yet.
Thanks for the input Trevor! I was hoping you'd chime in here as I knew you did a rebuild on one similar.BTW,I don't have points in this saw,it's electronic - blue coil of death,Lol.
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Post by xl130 on Jul 3, 2021 6:22:45 GMT -5
Not sure what this thing is. I assume it’s got something to do with the points bracket on the older 100 series saws. It’s in the way though when trying to drive the seal I know that though! I hate that thing.
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Post by Homelite Homer on Jul 3, 2021 14:51:20 GMT -5
I believe you are correct, it looks like some kind of alignment point for the points plate to keep it from shifting and self adjusting the timing.. No other reason for it to be there. What do you use for a seal driver ?? I use a 6" piece of 1/2 inch black pipe ground down on the end to match the seal diameter fit's very nicely and should clear that standoff. Very easy to make and cheap too..
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Post by xl130 on Jul 3, 2021 15:04:08 GMT -5
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Post by edju1958 on Jul 3, 2021 19:19:50 GMT -5
I did manage to get the clutch off today.It doesn't look like I'll need to pull the oil pump,it looks like the seal is on,then the oil pump.I'll try to get a pic here tomorrow.
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Post by xl130 on Jul 3, 2021 19:34:07 GMT -5
The 58308b seal is under the automatic oiler. I disconnect the two oil lines at the oil tank to remove the oiler.
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Post by Homelite Homer on Jul 3, 2021 19:39:30 GMT -5
The man speaks the truth !!!
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Post by edju1958 on Jul 3, 2021 19:52:39 GMT -5
Ah,OK then,I'll see about pulling the auto oiler pump tomorrow A.M.or Mon.I have a party to go to tomorrow for our Independence Day celebration.
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Post by jasonrkba on Jul 4, 2021 0:08:26 GMT -5
Those two legs are where the plastic square fits for the points (wires hook up).be very careful driving that seal in. I've gotten better at it but its a tight fit over that lip on the crank.
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Post by edju1958 on Jul 4, 2021 14:01:43 GMT -5
I really wish people would stop telling me about where the points attach.There are no points in this saw,it's electronic with the blue coil of death.I managed to get the oil pump off today,easy -peasy.
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