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Post by spook50 on May 15, 2013 1:08:53 GMT -5
I figured instead of posting updates to my progress in multiple threads I'd keep my progress to just one and post what pics I've managed to take as I overhaul the saw. This one is from 1974 (six years older than me, ha). My grandfather bought it new, then after he passed my dad kept it for a long time. It saw a LOT of heavy use and abuse, and I would guess little to no maintenance aside from occasionally sharpening the chain. I had very little use for a chainsaw when my wife and I bought our house, but thought having one would come in handy should we ever move to Texas and encounter a small group of traveling teenagers. I had long since thought my dad had gotten rid of it, but he just couldn't get it running and thought I'd appreciate having something to tinker with (as if I don't have enough unfinished projects already. I swear I think I have ADD). How it looked when he brought it over:   He said he tried to sell it at their garage sale but had no luck. Anyway, yep it seemed pretty well shot. Wouldn't start at all, but I could tell it still had at least some degree of compression, so I took my tester to it and it showed 140 PSI after six pulls. I took a look at the piston and saw it was in damn near perfect shape, so I flushed out the fuel tank with some diesel and put in some fresh 32:1 mix that I had for my trimmer. Played with the carb settings a bit and got it to run, but just barely. I could get it to idle for about 15 seconds or so before it would just quit. When I revved it up to full power (after a ton of Kroil was used to free up the seized chain) it would keep running, but cut out again as soon as I dropped it back to idle. No matter how I had the carb set, it kept doing that. Only thing that would prevent it was turning the idle up way too high, which kept the chain in constant motion. Not exactly a good thing. Oh yes Johnny, this is happening  Unfortunately it was such a mess that I didn't get any good pics of the teardown. Once I managed to get the case halves separated I broke a fin off of the flywheel, lucky me. Damn  The dirt in that pic is after blowing a boat load of caked up nastiness off of it. Needless to say I still had a long way to go. Here I've got it mostly cleaned up and just getting ready to pull the flywheel using my high-end custom flywheel and clutch removal tool. Worked great though.   After getting the flywheel off I went to pull off the points cover. I think there may have already been a crack in it because, well, crap.   I tried using JB Weld on the cap, but with no luck. I also JB Welded the broken fin back into place on the flywheel. I'm going to give it plenty of time to cure just to make sure it's as strong as it'll get before reassembling everything. The points were way out of adjustment. This might be part of the reason it was having trouble running. I set the piston to TDC and set them back to 0.015". If they end up out of adjustment again soon, I'll just convert to solid state and save myself the constant maintenance.  I wish I would've gotten a picture of the left side housing before I started cleaning it, because it was packed TIGHT with sawdust/tar/grease nastiness. I'm honestly surprised the engine shows no signs of having overheated in the past. Only part of the carb that was exposed was the surface that sits against the intake runner. So after extensive cleaning I went ahead and rebuilt it and set it to the manual's specs for factory. Carb rebuilt and placed back into cleaned housing.  All clean on the outside, new fuel line and filter. The old line didn't look damaged but was pretty stiff, so I figured new line is cheap insurance.  More to come as I make more progress. Not sure if the points cover is ABS but if it is I'll try to fuse it back together with some acetone. Works great, but you gotta be careful. If I can't fix it, I'll be keeping my eyes out for a replacement. |
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Post by sawnami on May 15, 2013 7:07:35 GMT -5
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Post by spook50 on May 15, 2013 14:02:35 GMT -5
Worth a shot. Especially since I just noticed I used the last of my acetone on dash repairs for my truck.
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Post by karla48 on May 15, 2013 15:10:52 GMT -5
Spook50,
Looks like your doing a nice job, It looks great! Too bad about the cover, I think that part is stationary, so if you had to you could even use some black silicone adhesive. Some of those old plastics were more like " bakelite", and are real tough to get them to stick together. Also, Your chainsaw has so many memories with it, you should write the history on a little 3x5 card, and keep it with the saw. Your Great Grandson some day will probably wonder why you kept this old saw! Lol. And In-addition the Chainsaw blog your creating is great idea too!
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Post by tribulation138 on May 15, 2013 19:13:23 GMT -5
i used to have a brand new oil tank that would look good on that saw. put it on a customers 150
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Post by spook50 on May 15, 2013 19:33:51 GMT -5
i used to have a brand new oil tank that would look good on that saw. put it on a customers 150 I honestly wish the odds of getting a seal on a split fuel tank were better, in which case I would've taken all the red parts in to be powdercoated, laser etch the printed info into the coating, and called it a complete restoration. I'm sure at some point in the future I'll be tearing it down again. Maybe then I'll take the gamble if I'm feeling froggy. |
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Post by sawnami on May 15, 2013 22:17:16 GMT -5
i used to have a brand new oil tank that would look good on that saw. put it on a customers 150 I honestly wish the odds of getting a seal on a split fuel tank were better I resealed the tank halves on my XP1020 with Loctite anaerobic sealer about 6 years ago and it still doesn't leak a drop. |
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Post by spook50 on May 16, 2013 17:04:15 GMT -5
I honestly wish the odds of getting a seal on a split fuel tank were better I resealed the tank halves on my XP1020 with Loctite anaerobic sealer about 6 years ago and it still doesn't leak a drop. Was it Loctite 549? |
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Post by sawnami on May 16, 2013 20:44:02 GMT -5
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Post by spook50 on May 27, 2013 1:49:12 GMT -5
I might give that a try if I can reproduce the info printing around the carb adjustment and choke slider afterwards. Be great to split it, get it powdercoated, and get it back together with no leaks and brand new, clean info decals. For now I'll sand it down, mask the parts I don't want/need fresh paint on and just touch it up as I can. Made some good progress today. After soaking the chain in some diesel for a good couple of weeks to get it as clean as possible I took it out and blasted it with some carb cleaner just to flush away any old gunk. Looks to be in outstanding shape, though it looks to me like this is not the original chain. Unless maybe I'm mistaken and Oregon made OEM chains for saws back in the early/mid 70's. Anyone know if this is the case? Clean chain. As just another point of interest, it's sitting on an old Homelite kerosene/diesel heater (works like a champ) model # HD-65-F. Anyone know anything about these heaters? I picked it up for $60 last fall and haven't been able to find ANYTHING about it on the internet. It's almost like that model never existed.  And just for the sake of showing off; my "tool" with the clutch attached ;D  Pics are a wee bit blurry because my phone's OS's camera support isn't the greatest (using CyanogenMod on a Galaxy S3). I worked on cleaning the bar up as best I could. Still have quite a ways to go, but I think once all is said and done it'll be good and serviceable. I spat some black spraypaint on it for this picture to show how pitted it is from corrosion over the years. My intention is to get it all cleaned up and fairly smoothed out then paint it with some Rustoleum industrial paint, or go higher and higher on grit and then polish to a mirror finish since the smoother finish is far less likely to corrode over time in storage.  After that I figured I may as well inspect the oil tank and pump, so I separated it from the powerhead and boy am I glad I did it over some pig mats. Even after pouring as much out through the fill hole as I could, it still dumped a fair amount of old funky chain oil out of the tank. The powerhead side before cleaning  ...and after cleaning. Still have a little bit of RTV to get rid of, but the slathered mess that was there is good and gone now. It amazes me how many people think RTV is needed in addition to a gasket. With proper surface preparation and lubing the gasket (works for O-rings too) with the liquid it's sealing against, I have NEVER had any gasket leak in any engine, transmission, or mechanical part I've worked on. Even the Chrysler Slant 6 and its infamous exhaust manifold gasket leak, not on my old Plymouth!  Inspected and cleaned the oil pump housing as well. Looked good and cleaned up with little effort and some carb cleaner. Before:  ...and after. The original pick-up line was fairly hardened so I used some leftover fuel line to replace it with. I can't imagine chain oil damaging this newer line (feels like silicon rubber, but I'm not 100% sure what exactly its composition is), so I figured it'd be a great candidate  Now here's where I'm not sure what I should do next. Since it's not acting as an actual gasket per se, I'm tempted to just reuse the oil pump diaphragm. It looks like it's still in surprisingly good shape, so if it can be reused I'd like to just go ahead and do it. What do you guys think? Reuse it, or just replace with new while everything's apart?    Since I'm at somewhat of a standstill now (waiting to get paid so I can get a couple parts from Chainsawlady), I figured I'd take the opportunity to consolidate all my manuals I've got digital copies of and make a hard copy manual to keep in my shop where I can just grab it and use it when needed. I took a 7-ring binder that was going to be thrown away at work since we're using new leather binders for our maintenance forms (I work aircraft maintenance). Some page protectors punched to match the binder and I've got an easily useable product:   Even made color printouts of the carburetor manuals. This is the Walbro HDC series section. I still have to print my Tillotson HK series manual and put it in, but not a bad setup, eh?  For now nearly everything's cleaned up and ready for reassembly. Still a few more things to do but I'm looking forward to putting it all back together. One final question though: do any of you know where I could get a carrying/storage case for this saw? Or maybe one made for a different saw that would fit fairly well? |
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Post by sawnami on May 27, 2013 6:49:14 GMT -5
If you have a container of brake fluid sitting around, you could soak your oil pump diaphragm in it it to help make it more pliable.
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Post by tribulation138 on May 27, 2013 8:31:09 GMT -5
nice write up. the oil diaphram should be good to go. I know I had a problem with a customers 150 not oiling. After taking it apart 50 times. From not oiling I figured out thick bar oil was the problem. I had to thin it out with motor oil.
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Post by spook50 on May 27, 2013 17:19:35 GMT -5
Good to hear the diaphragm is still usable. I'll give 'er a soak in some brake fluid and start reassembling the powerhead next. When I give the saw it's initial run I'll use some thinner motor oil to prime the pump so it's got a legit fluid in place to help it draw in chain oil when I actually fill the tank. Got a couple ideas for cleaning up the housing good and proper, but I'll see how it turns out before I post a yay or nay on either. I think I can realistically pull it off without splitting the fuel tank, so if I can, great.
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Post by karla48 on May 27, 2013 17:59:11 GMT -5
Spook50, It looks like your saw is coming along nicely. The oil pump diagram looks good, and should work fine. I just finished another Homelite 330 today, and the only thing that didn't work was the oiler, my diaphram looked about the same as yours. What I found was when the diaghram and rod was pushed all the way down, the piston/ plunger rod was stuck. I removed the piston/ plunger rod, and thoroughly cleaned the body of the oil pump with some carb cleaner then re-oiled everything, and it works like a champ, but that piston/ plunger has to move freely up and all the way down, just a hint!
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Post by spook50 on May 27, 2013 20:54:31 GMT -5
Good thinking on making sure the pump housing is all cleaned. I took the screw, spring and ball out of mine and made sure all was clean too, but based on your experience I'll also do an op check on it before putting everything all together to make sure it won't stick at all. I've noticed this old chain oil was a sticky sludgy mess, so hopefully having it all cleaned out will help the pump's operation considerably.
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Post by spook50 on Aug 13, 2013 17:38:30 GMT -5
Well after a bit of a hiatus to get my hands on some parts (tried contacting Parkinlube, but never did hear back from them. Not sure what's going on there) and take advantage of the warm weather to repair and stain the deck (holy termite damage), I'm back at it. I've gotten the engine all cleaned, went ahead and got a new flywheel and points cap, and started the reassembly. Cleaned, reinstalled and adjusted the points to 0.015"  Oil pump housing, clutch and drum all cleaned up and reinstalled. I used my makeshift clutch installation tool to hold it in place while I torqued the flywheel nut to 200 in-lbs. Everything's solid and rotating assembly still turns freeely. So far so good.  Aaaaaand again a work stoppage. Can't go any farther until I finish repainting the housing and the bar (which still needs some serious work). I got curious last night though and popped the small wirewheel onto my Dremel to see how well it would strip paint around more detailed areas, and it worked way better than I expected! These little wheels are only a couple bucks, but since they are small it's fairly time consuming. I'd much rather take the time and do it right than rush it though. Still, I'd say it's a pretty good start!  I also picked up a decent sized convection toaster oven that's big enough to hold even the large housing so I can actually bake the parts I paint. It only goes to a minimum of 200 degrees though, so I'll have to put a resistor in series with the thermostat to fool it into "thinking" it's warmer than it is and hopefully I can get it to hold fairly close to 175-190 degrees. |
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Post by sweepleader on Aug 13, 2013 21:45:36 GMT -5
Nice, very nice.
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Post by spook50 on Aug 31, 2013 4:54:01 GMT -5
Been pretty busy the last couple weeks with finals for the quarter, repainting some parts on the truck and doing more work to get the shop together, but tonight I poured myself a giant mug of beer, put some bagpipe music on the stereo in the shop and did a little more work on the saw. Now it's mostly just stripping and cleaning of the painted parts. I put my wirewheel in my big Craftsman drill press and experimented with that some, but it left some pretty noticeable marks in the magnesium. You can sort of see them in the pics. I hadn't realized just how soft of a metal it is. So I broke out the Dremel and used that pretty much exclusively with its wirewheel bits. Takes a good deal longer to clean a part, but the results are much cleaner with no metal being removed, just paint.   I don't think they have to be 100% absolute perfection, since I got a self etching primer to use on them, but I'll find out for sure once I finish priming and painting the first piece. That way if it comes out looking bad I can figure out what the problem is/was, correct it, and only have to redo one piece rather then the whole set. In hindsight I should have started with the sprocket cover, since that's the simplest part to strip and paint. The oil tank is just the next part needed for reassembly so naturally it was the one I grabbed first. I also broke down the toaster oven I picked up, and unlike current appliances it doesn't use a thermistor connected to a switch to regulate temperature. It's just a simple breaker point system that's riveted directly to the inner housing. So all I had to do was bend the mounting bracket slightly so that the points would open and close "earlier" in the heating cycle and now it turns off the elements at 200* and turns them back on a 140*. I used my multimeter's temp probe to monitor it several times after tweaking it so that I could have it all dialed in. Next couple days I'll prime, paint and bake the tank, and I'll post up my results with that. |
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Post by tribulation138 on Aug 31, 2013 7:38:21 GMT -5
yea i have a old toaster oven and do the same thing.
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Post by spook50 on Sept 2, 2013 22:09:26 GMT -5
Well so far it's going pretty well. I didn't expect a perfect powercoat-quality finish, but using Rustoleum self etching primer and their "sunrise red" color, I got very close to the original red color. I peeled off the manufacturing tag from the body and compared the unfaded paint under that to the freshly baked Rustoleum and the difference was miniscule. Still want to find a good quality clear lacquer to top coat the parts with, but so far I like what I'm seeing. There are a few imperfections in the coat but not enough for me to justify stripping it down again and recoating. The bar itself is proving to be a big challenge. I'm not sure how I'll be able to get alot of that pitting out of it, or at least concealed well enough to look decent. Couple pics of the oil tank after painting and before lacquer:   |
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