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Post by OBR on Oct 1, 2009 15:19:24 GMT -5
Hey guys,
It finally got to the point where I really need another (larger) saw running around here so I bit the bullet and sent my 550's cylinder off to U.S. Chrome of Wisconsin to get replated. In the mean time while Im waiting for it to return I need to get everything cleaned up and ready to go back together. Anyways Im gonna try to use this thread to ask all my questions as I go back together with it and I'll create a tutorial as I put it all back together. So I might as well get started asking my questions.
First, I had to remove the transfer port covers before sending it to the platers, what type of sealant do I need to use when I put them back on. And along these lines what type of sealant do I use when mating cylinder and lower crankcase half?? I've heard yamabond? other recommendations?
Thats all for the moment, but don't worry...I'm just getting started!
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Post by RBW on Oct 1, 2009 22:14:19 GMT -5
Yamabond should work well in those places and is a proven product, even when used improperly. Theres also a loctite product that I like called "Gasket eliminator, I dont rember the number though. This stuff works well enough I have had the carb bolts work loose on a small engine and the thing ran fine ant the carb didnt fall off.
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Post by chainsawwhisperer on Oct 2, 2009 5:01:12 GMT -5
I swear by Yamabond.
CSW
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Post by polardoo on Oct 2, 2009 6:41:39 GMT -5
I work at a Honda dealership and swear by Hondabond.
Same product-
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Post by chainsawwhisperer on Oct 2, 2009 8:39:43 GMT -5
If you worked at a Yugo dealership would you swear by Yugobond? LOL
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Post by mikem on Oct 5, 2009 13:32:32 GMT -5
"You Go Bond".....LMAO !!!
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Post by chainsawwhisperer on Oct 5, 2009 14:59:32 GMT -5
A 'Sea-Doo' dealership... Seabond...(for all you cats with false teeth) CSW
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Post by OBR on Oct 6, 2009 10:36:39 GMT -5
Haha...well fellas since Im a Yamaha guy anyway I'll prolly just get me some Yamabond and go for it...
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Post by lesorubcheek on Oct 6, 2009 10:43:28 GMT -5
Think comments over at AS were that all those (well, maybe not YugoBond ;D) was actually Threebond 1104 (1194 is actually the newer stuff). I doubt you'll be disappointed with the Yamabond.
Dan
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Post by lesorubcheek on Oct 15, 2009 12:04:08 GMT -5
Alright.... its been too quiet over here. How's that 550 shaping up? Got the cylinder back yet?
pics! We need to see some pics!
Dan
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Post by OBR on Oct 15, 2009 15:43:50 GMT -5
Well its your lucky day Dan, cylinder just showed up today actually, I'll get some pics up hopefully tomorrow evening and hope to make some major progress this weekend!
All I can say is the cylinder looks great! They must've cleaned it somehow cuz it definitely looks brand new inside and out.
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Post by lesorubcheek on Oct 15, 2009 17:52:48 GMT -5
Sometimes ya just get that feeling.... thought it was about time. That's great news  . Can't wait to see the progress. Dan |
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Post by chainsawwhisperer on Oct 16, 2009 5:21:50 GMT -5
Nice to hear that you got your cyl. back! How bad was it origanaly? Any special precautions on break-in or running?
CSW
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Post by polardoo on Oct 16, 2009 7:13:50 GMT -5
"You Go Bond".....LMAO !!! GM dealership Obond By the way this is a new product that may or may not work |
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Post by MCS on Oct 16, 2009 8:43:36 GMT -5
"You Go Bond".....LMAO !!! GM dealership Obond By the way this is a new product that may or may not work Yes'um, It may take a few years to find out if OBond, or is it OBonda, will keep the company together ;D Now, a serious question about the project at hand. Does the bore diameter of the cylinder end up at standard size after it is rechomed and is it a shiny chrome? Original replacement cylinders are finished with a dull appearance. Somehow the old chrome had to be removed, right? Any idea how this was done? Since oversized pistons are not available, i.e. +.010, everything has to come back to factory spec. |
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Post by OBR on Oct 16, 2009 13:41:29 GMT -5
Ok, originally the cylinder wasn't horrid, but the chrome had flaked just under the exhaust port. I would say the chrome is fairly similar to factory, maybe a touch shinier (I'll get a pic up soon). Yes, they had to remove the old chrome (but I dont know how they do this exactly) and then the bore is replated, then honed to factory spec. At least from what I've read.
Now a serious question for you guys, when I go to seal the bottom end where all and how much yamabond do I use? Do you put any where the seal/bearing goes or just in the "flats" of where the cases join?
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Post by lesorubcheek on Oct 16, 2009 14:26:24 GMT -5
I apply yamabond with a small paint brush, like a "testors" used to paint models. Its fairly thin, especially compared to silicone. Instructions say to stir it well, so first step is a toothpick in the tube and swishing around real good. Not sure its the official method, but I've always applied to only one surface. Instructions say wait at least one minute, but less than 5 or so, and put the parts together. I don't use any sealant around the bearings. No need here, and if it gets loose it could cause ya trouble. Only around the perimeter where the case meets the base of the cylinder.
On a 450 and 550, its tempting to sit the seals in place as the case is joined to the cylinder. Need to see what the book says, but I don't do this since I can't trust them to be square. Rather tap them in place after the case and cylinder are joined. With new seals I'm not sure sealant is 100% neccessary, but I usually put just a light smear around the perimeter for good measure.
Dan
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Post by lesorubcheek on Oct 16, 2009 14:32:32 GMT -5
Dern it... I just read over again and realized I probably didn't answer the real question of "how much". First, I'd reccommend playing a bit with some Yamabond on a test surface. When I first used it, I had the same question and was amazed at how evenly it seems to just brush on.
Best way I can think to put it in words is just apply it on the brush and ensure all the area has been brushed over enough that you see sealant. It flows out very evenly and thinly, and there's no need to try to pile it up. The layer will end up being maybe as thick as a few sheets of construction paper.
Dan
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Post by MCS on Oct 16, 2009 21:50:22 GMT -5
A few comments from the Homelite Service Manual Vol. 6 that may interest you. - The crankshaft roller bearings are installed with the lettered end toward the snap rings.
- "use a suitable sealant on the mating surfaces"
- Before final tightening of the crankcase screws, lightly tap both ends of the crankshaft to obtain proper crankshaft end play
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Post by OBR on Oct 18, 2009 16:38:32 GMT -5
Hey guys, thanks for the information. Anyways, this weekend didn't net quite as much progress as I had hoped, first I didn't make it to the Yamaha dealership before close friday night so I didn't get the yamabond so finishing the rotating assembly wasn't going to happen. Then saturday I showed up at the local napa to pick up some tygon about 11.45 they were already closed, yet it said open till 12.00 on the door...crap. Anyways, I did take the time to get the majority of the part cleaning done. I use gasoline and compressed air for the major cleaning, next time im back home i'll do a soap and water cleaning, rinse, dry and wax. However, I did come up with a couple more questions as I has cleaning and making sure I was prepared for reassembly, first any suggestions on how to get the new piston pin in? My method of drilling a hole in a board then beating it out with a roll pin punch seems a little abusive to new parts. I'm thinking freeze the piston pin for a day and put the rod over the heat register in the house for a few hours to get it good and warmed up...then grease the pin a bit and hope for the best. Any other ideas? Thanks for the tip on the seals dan, I would've just put them in before joining the case. Torquing the crankcase-anything I need to be concerned with here? Do I need to be accurate or just do it pretty tight and by feel? Hey MCS whats the idea behind tapping the crank ends? Anyways here's some pics for you guys   |
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