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Post by OBR on Oct 18, 2009 16:41:30 GMT -5
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Post by OBR on Oct 18, 2009 16:45:48 GMT -5
Sorry fellas, I have the pics of the cylinder but the pic hosting isn't operating correctly at the moment... I'll try again after awhile.
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Post by lesorubcheek on Oct 18, 2009 18:14:01 GMT -5
Looking great Jared! I had a feeling you may ask about piston swapping. Here's the block I use. I use an old pin with a spring in the bottom for installation. It sticks up just enough so the lower bearings won't fall out while the new pin is getting pushed in from the top. If I'm removing an old pin, the pin you see in the block is removed. The old pin just pushes out the bottom. I use a press and a solid metal tube that's ground a bit to go inside the hole in the pin and fit snug on the face. I forgot to bring the stupid tube from the farm, but I think you get the idea. I think a press will work alot easier than trying to tap the pin. Smooth even pressure works great. I use a heat gun to heat the rod for removal and installation. Cooling the new pin as you suggested helps too. A light oil coating on the new pin is a good idea. Dan
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Post by OBR on Oct 18, 2009 19:00:11 GMT -5
Cylinder pictures: Thanks for the tips Dan, I'll have to work on making something to help me out...
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Post by MCS on Oct 18, 2009 21:21:45 GMT -5
Hey MCS whats the idea behind tapping the crank ends? To make sure the bearings are seated gently against the snap rings which will provide the correct crankshaft end play. You do this before final tightening the screws. The crankcase is torqued to 60 in. lbs. BTW, the bearing shells provide stability to the two pieces so any sealant that is gas resistant will work. Loctite 515 or Pematex Form a gasket will work.
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Post by topgut on Oct 20, 2009 20:46:32 GMT -5
Very nice work. Keep going and don't lose interest and try not to get distracted. Good luck with it.........J
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Post by OBR on Nov 5, 2009 18:36:12 GMT -5
Well, I'm really getting an itch to get this think together and rolling. One more week till I make it back home, in the mean time...muffler mod ideas anyone? I would assume the base of this muffler is just open and all the "muffling" goes on in the upper portion...so I can probably split it at the seam and take out all the unneccessary stuff right?? Anybody ever done one of these? Quiet saws are no fun and might as well make the most of the 84cc's ;D Plus I've never been a big fan of the "ping-ping" sound of most piston ports, hoping that if I open it up it'll have a deeper tone...
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Post by lesorubcheek on Nov 5, 2009 21:23:34 GMT -5
Mufflers on all the '50s are limited by the tube piece that connects between the lower section and the side section. Here's a pic that hopefully shows what I'm talking about. I've never tried to mod any of 'em. To really open it up, you'll need to separate the two sections, waller the opening out on both ends, and find or fabricate a larger piece of tube to join 'em back together. Trying to align the two sections after doing this looks like a pretty big job. Sure it can be done, but not sure what the return would be. Dan
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Post by 925fetish on Nov 5, 2009 21:27:15 GMT -5
How much does it cost to re-chrome a cyl.
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Post by OBR on Nov 5, 2009 21:48:36 GMT -5
925, it's a bit pricey at right around 200 bucks by time you ship the cylinder both directions and about 180 for the process...but for the rare cylinders (like the 550's apparently) its pretty much the only option unless you can find a used one...
Dan, I'm seein what you mean...thinkin what I've got...and im wondering how difficult it would be to make a custom muffler for this ole boy... something that eliminates the two part design and big "tin can" parts... Just might have to fire up the cad software and do a little prototyping...
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Post by OBR on Nov 5, 2009 23:34:53 GMT -5
Well, cad drawing I threw together this evening: still need to figure out the outlet end of things (im thinking about just dumping it there, putting a sparkarrestor screen over the outlet, similare to what is found on the mac610 saws. Also gotta put on a couple brace tabs... not sure how hard or easy it would be to actually produce yet...
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Post by lesorubcheek on Nov 6, 2009 7:38:57 GMT -5
Now this looks like its gonna be interesting!
Dan
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Post by chainsawwhisperer on Nov 6, 2009 7:44:23 GMT -5
I like it!
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Post by OBR on Nov 13, 2009 18:38:55 GMT -5
Well, finally made it back home after a month and am bout dying to make some real progress on the ole 550, getting to that point wood needs to be cut!! Anyways, this evening's question: loctite, where do you guys recommend using and which type (blue/red)? Thanks...
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Post by MCS on Nov 13, 2009 19:41:26 GMT -5
I only see three products listed on Loctite site. • Red 271™ Permanent: Use on internal bolts. • Blue 242® Removable: Use on all bolts you can see and reach. • Green 290™ Penetrating: Similar to Blue 242® , but can be applied after assembly for ease and time savings. Note that Red is Permanent I would only use Blue 242 but is it necessary to use a thread lock? If you choose to use a thread lock, make sure any bolt or screw you lock has a good head for what ever is used to tighten it, Phillips, hex, socket, torq, or allen. At some time in the future you may want to take it apart again. Just my 2 cents.
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Post by OBR on Nov 14, 2009 15:12:52 GMT -5
Nothing like making a newbie mistake to shut you down for the weekend...started out by putting on the piston...pushed in the new pin with the old one, worked real slick except for one minor detail...I put the piston on backwards I dont know what I was thinking, but the exhaust arrow on the piston is sure pointing towards the intake side... Worst part is I don't have immediate access to a lathe to turn a pin to push the piston pin back out so I'm shut down for now...well more to come next weekend, hopefully with better results. Never pays to hurry and not double and triple check things.
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Post by lesorubcheek on Nov 14, 2009 23:01:47 GMT -5
Don't feel bad. Nothing was broken, and best of all, you spotted the little mistake before assembling it and possibly breaking a ring or worse! Always good to learn and remember we're all only human.
As for Loctite, I like the stuff, especially the blue. Don't use red much though, except in few cases that a manual calls it out. A little bit of blue never seems to hurt on just about everything. As much vibration as saws produce, I think a little blue always helps keep bolts from working loose. Just a little seems to work well, not globbing it all over. More important is clean threads on the bolts and inside the holes as well. Love acetone and clean rags for cleaning these. Q-tips work pretty good for the the smaller holes. A little cotton strand pulled from one never seems to hurt. Its better than leaving it greasy and dirty.
Dan
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Post by chainsawwhisperer on Nov 15, 2009 11:48:32 GMT -5
We've all made those mistakes, glad you caught it! Jim
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Post by mikem on Nov 17, 2009 10:04:13 GMT -5
I use Loctite Blue on rifle scope mounts(some large calibers) and it works well ... screws still removable but stay tight under serious shock.
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Post by lesorubcheek on Nov 20, 2009 10:24:09 GMT -5
Jared, Just sitting here, and started thinking and had one of those "duuuhhhhh" thoughts. If the piston was pressed onto the rod facing the wrong way, why not just unbolt the rod and flip it instead of pressing out the piston pin again?
I guess if its been running a certain direction, it may be preferable to put it back on the crank the same orientation. Just know when I take these things apart, I don't go to the trouble of making sure each roller is lined up the same direction, or which side of the rod was left or right if they get seperated form the piston. Important thing is to put the rod cap on the right way.
Maybe I'm not paying attention to a detail that's important. Interesting to see other's thoughts here.
Dan
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