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Post by richard06877 on Apr 20, 2009 22:14:00 GMT -5
Greetings to all in here. Great forum, I'm a newbie to the saw business, but am pretty savvy with autos. Not sure what's up with my dad's saw that I have on loan. It's a 150 that has seen some use, but not abuse. I took it apart to clean it up for duty, as it was sitting for a few years. All looks fairly clean on it, gassed it up the other day without the bar & chain on it, starts up well, seems to run OK. Went to put the bar back on it today, and am following the manual's directions on chain tensioning, etc. The chain can be pulled around by hand pretty well for almost the whole way, then it just STOPS at a certain point. When I reverse it by hand, it goes around and stops at pretty much the same spot. It's odd, as the sprocket on the clutch freewheeled fine with out the chain on it, so it's not seized up. sprocket teeth have normal wear, as does the chain. When I pull it around it there's normal slack, but then all of a sudden it goes really loose, and that's where it bids up solid. I can't figure what could possibly be going on. Any ideas or suggestions? Much appreciated.
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Post by chainsawwhisperer on Apr 21, 2009 4:45:37 GMT -5
It sounds to me like you have a buggered up drive link that is catching on either the top bar groove or the bottom groove, but not both. Remove the B/C and with the bar off the saw put the chain on the bar, rotate the chain around the bar by hand. mount the bar in a vice to do this. Slide the chain in both directions, then flip the bar and do it again. A seized link in the chain might do it as well. Do you have a spare chain? Let us know what you find out. CSW
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Post by MCS on Apr 21, 2009 20:46:20 GMT -5
Binding links - a link that is tight will cause the chain tension to get tight when this link tries to go around the bar nose or the sprocket.
Repaired Chain - Sometimes a chain will break. If a new link is put in to repair the break, the bottom of the link has to be gound back to match the wear of the other links in the chain. If it isn't gound back, the chain will tighen up as the new link goes around the end. This is mostly a problem with hard nose bars - no sprocket in the end of the bar - because the links ride on the rail all the time.
Spray the chain with WD40 and work all the links to make sure none are tight.
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Post by richard06877 on Apr 21, 2009 22:26:08 GMT -5
Wow, three suggestions!! You guys are great! Thanks so much. Wouldn't you know my dad tells me today that he has an extra brand new chain for the thing! However, for the sake of solving my little mystery...I will take the bar off, place in a vice and manually pull the chain around. I did notice that the bar was originally installed with the bar upside down, i.e., "Homelite" writing on it was flipped over. Seems to be designed that way, though, as the oiling holes are functional either way. Guess that's to equalize wear on the bar. I will advise what I find on the binding issue. Thanks again!
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Post by chainsawwhisperer on Apr 22, 2009 6:06:44 GMT -5
You are exactly right on the bar being upside down to equalize wear on the rails. CSW
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Post by richard06877 on Apr 23, 2009 23:00:34 GMT -5
Problem solved, thanks to all you nice folks in here! Indeed, one of the links in the chain was totally seized up and rusted. Don't know how I missed it. Put a bit of oil on, moved it around a bit, and Presto! Good as almost new. I'll save that new chain for another year. Once again, many thanks to all the knowledgeable people in here. I'm sure I'll be back when another mystery surfaces :-)
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Post by MCS on Apr 23, 2009 23:17:53 GMT -5
I'm sure I'll be back when another mystery surfaces :-) We will be waiting ;D
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