|
Post by johnnytrigger on Aug 9, 2020 18:54:16 GMT -5
Hey guys. Just grabbed an old 180 classic for free on junknpile. I got it running and idle ok... i cant get the oiler to work. When i fill up the oiler reservoir and run it it pisses out the muffler and smokes like a bomb... im not familiar with these older saws. Any advice..? Thank you
|
|
|
Post by edju1958 on Aug 9, 2020 19:37:35 GMT -5
That's usually a sign of it needing a new duck bill.
|
|
|
Post by johnnytrigger on Aug 9, 2020 19:55:25 GMT -5
Whats that.? The oiler is hooked up to the carbureter? Im gunna tear it apart this week. Cant find any info anywhere.
|
|
|
Post by sweepleader on Aug 9, 2020 21:26:13 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by johnnytrigger on Aug 10, 2020 8:32:25 GMT -5
Thank you. That diagram is what in looking for. Interesting design. Im more familiar with modern stihl and moped motors... cheers
|
|
|
Post by xl130 on Aug 10, 2020 10:39:05 GMT -5
Thank you. That diagram is what in looking for. Interesting design. Im more familiar with modern stihl and moped motors... cheers I have a couple of XL-2’s which I think are the same oiler system. Best case scenario is that you just need to replace the two oil lines going into the oil tank, new duckbill check valve on the pump discharge line. Make sure the sintered stone didn’t fall into the bottom of the tank on that same hose. Caps should fit right with good seal or else you’ll have a pressure loss and lose oil flow. Make note of the proper hose orientation or else you’ll smoke the yard out in a hurry! *** Just checked the IPL that you were provided (should have looked first). Same design as XL-2 except the vent fitting on the pressures line. On the XL-2 it’s a brass sintered fitting.
|
|
|
Post by johnnytrigger on Aug 10, 2020 11:15:31 GMT -5
Thanks for your help. Ill let you know how it t goes.
|
|
|
Post by johnnytrigger on Aug 11, 2020 18:31:22 GMT -5
I went through all the lines cleaned everything up. That duckbill was in oil tank. Clipped her back on and good as new! There was a long clear plastic tube inside the gastank just floating around. Size of a pen. Not sure what thats about.. cleaned carb and tanks good as new. Thanks again for help.... what do you think the value of this saw is in the case with sharp chain and tuneup?
|
|
|
Post by xl130 on Aug 11, 2020 18:39:06 GMT -5
Value fluctuates based on what platform your selling it and where your selling.
Very hard question to answer. I don’t pay anymore than $85 dollars for these old saws..,,but I’m cheap!
Look around kijiji, Facebook marketplace and EBay to compare.
|
|
|
Post by johnnytrigger on Aug 12, 2020 8:35:29 GMT -5
I may just keep it. Whats the best fuel oil ratio for this saw.?
|
|
|
Post by xl130 on Aug 12, 2020 10:35:32 GMT -5
I may just keep it. Whats the best fuel oil ratio for this saw.? I mix 40:1
|
|
|
Post by johnnytrigger on Aug 12, 2020 17:04:18 GMT -5
I guess I spoke too soon. I can’t get the oiler tank to pressurize. Outlet from the tank plugs into a little valve to control oil flow to the bar. I’ve been through every line and every diagram everything is correct . The duckbill just plugs right into the line just inside under the lid. How tight does that seal need to be?
|
|
|
Post by xl130 on Aug 12, 2020 17:42:47 GMT -5
Air tight is best. I would think even if it’s leaking a bit of air somewhere that it would probably still work....just not consistent?
You could try putting a bit of soap around the lid to see if it’s leaking excessively. Check the hole that the hose enters he tank. I installed a rubber grommet on my XL-2 for a tighter fit after replacing the hoses.
You could also pull the duckbill and valve thingy off, put your finger over the end of the hose to check that you’re getting air pumped into the tank while the saw is running.
If you’re not getting pressure out of that little pump then it could need to be opened up and checked for built up gunk it’s something.
I think that the gaskets are still available but the little diaphragm is a bit harder to come by. Thanks
|
|
|
Post by johnnytrigger on Aug 12, 2020 18:04:44 GMT -5
Put my hand over the tank lid with no cap I didn’t feel any pressure at all. By PUMP you mean the carb yah? How long running should be enough time to get pressure?
|
|
|
Post by xl130 on Aug 12, 2020 20:27:12 GMT -5
No, not carb. There should be a small diaphragm pump that works off the crankcase pressure that feeds into the oil tank......unless the 180 is a different design than I am picturing.
|
|
|
Post by xl130 on Aug 13, 2020 4:48:22 GMT -5
Here is a video. Sometimes it’s easier to show someone what they are talking about. If this does not apply to a 180 then please someone correct me because I’m not sure. youtu.be/DaxDkMWEmiQ
|
|
|
Post by johnnytrigger on Aug 13, 2020 5:10:29 GMT -5
there is no diaphragm pump . The pressure line was connected directly to the carburetor. Then from the oil tank to a plunger switch .with a dial to control flow..from the switch down to the bar .....i cant find a single video or diagram of this excact design.
|
|
|
Post by xl130 on Aug 13, 2020 5:20:04 GMT -5
Oh well crap! Sorry! I thought all theses saws had the same oiler pressure systems. Well if you ever get an XL-2 you know how they oil now......
I’m sure someone here can give you some better advice than I have to offer.
|
|
|
Post by undee70ss on Aug 13, 2020 7:01:07 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by johnnytrigger on Aug 13, 2020 8:23:37 GMT -5
Thanks for that. I actually tried it both ways andI already tried to bypass that switch and just get oil straight from the tank hose. Nothing... I unplugged the thumb part of that valve and no oil enters that valve.. after a min of revs that line should fill. Right?
|
|