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Post by MCS on Apr 17, 2009 20:26:03 GMT -5
A few months ago on my why to the cabin for the weekend, I stopped at a pawn shop that I had driven by several times. It is one of those really neat pawn shops, nothing fancy like Pawn America, just a small town shop. Right inside the door was a shelf full of chainsaws. Of course I looked past the green ones and the yellow ones as my eyes were drawn to a SXLAO and an EZ Automatic. The super looked OK but no bar and chain and it said "part only" on it. That was a good reason right there to part with $15 ;D. I looked at that EZ, picked it up a couple of times. Said no, said yes, said no and left it there  . They wanted $45.00. That EZ sitting on the shelf kept bothering me all winter so this weekend I stopped in and there it was. I knew it didn't run. It would sputter if primed. A decent power tip and an almost new chisel tooth chain. This is the EZ Automatic model I sold at the store in 1971. The Super didn't exist in 1971! It won't take long to get this little jewel running. That's what I told myself at 9AM this morning. So at 7:15 tonight it's running   I did take a few breaks for some beer... It would run if primed, at least that what it seem like. New fuel line, filter is good. After swapping carbs, three different ones, and opening up carbs, for a couple of hours, I pulled the reeds. Aha, I say, one of the reeds is home made  Got the reed block from another parts saw ( take it easy OldZip) and was sure that would fix it. Nope I don't know how many times I checked the spark - it was always there and it would sputter  More beer ;D I'm missing something, it shouldn't be this difficult. Off comes the rewind. First thing I notice is the coil is loose on core and it is rubbing on the flywheel. Maybe that's the problem But... That's when I found the loose screw that is supposed to secure the coil ground wire to the core. I suppose when the saw was being cranked with the rope there would be enough contact but when the saw fired, all the vibration left the ignition an open circuit. This problem had all the signs of being a fuel delivery issue. |
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Post by riseandrun on Apr 17, 2009 22:19:12 GMT -5
Sounds like a very productive day  I only thought about how I was going to fix my chainsaw.  R&R |
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Post by chesterwin on Apr 18, 2009 7:59:25 GMT -5
UPS just delivered 2 sezao's yesterday. Epay for $46 plus shipping. One is almost like new but locked up. I pulled the muffler and the piston looks like new. I suspect the coil mount bolts are backed out into the flywheel. Any tricks to pulling a flywheel off the sez? I'm used to working on my sxl's.
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Post by MCS on Apr 18, 2009 8:57:47 GMT -5
chester, flywheel comes off just like the SXL. Do you have a puller? Do not ever, never, ever use the flywheel fins for lock tabs to hold the flywheel while removing the lock nut.  The fuel tank bolts may back out. On the older EZs these bolts are Posidrive heads - look like a phillips but they are different. Be careful not to strip out the head. Keep us posted on this one. What was the outcome of your other project? |
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Post by OBR on Apr 18, 2009 11:44:37 GMT -5
Hey chester,
If you dont have a puller you can make one like i did. I use a piece of angle iron about 6" in length and drill holes in it that align with the studs that hold the screen onto the flywheel. The i usually run a jam nut (thinner than regular nut) onto the crank (not all the way down though else the wheel can't pop off) then put an oversize nut on the end of the crank (the jam nut acts as a stop). Place the angle iron on the screen studs and start the nuts on the studs. Run the jam nut up on the crank till its tight against the angle iron. Then just tighten the stud nuts and the flywheel always pops right off for me...good luck
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Post by chesterwin on Apr 19, 2009 10:50:06 GMT -5
OK. I rigged a puller and got the flywheel off. It wasn't the problem. Looks like it's not going to be a simple fix as I was hoping. This saw looks too good not to repair. I don't think the piston is seized. I put a couple of bolts in the clutch to have something to grip and using needle nose vice grips tried to get the crank to turn but it's "locked up" tight. What would be the most likely thing to jam and prevent the crankshaft from turning? Is there anything else I can check without having to pull the saw completely apart?
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Post by MCS on Apr 19, 2009 12:46:32 GMT -5
Chester,
I think you will have to pull the thing apart because with your description the likely problem would be a seized piston. Put the flywheel back on so it's snug - you don't have to torque it down, then use your newly make puller bolted to the flywheel and try and break the piston free. Squirt some WD-40 or the likes in the spark plug hole and a squirt in the exhaust port. At least see if it will wiggle a little bit.
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Post by chesterwin on Apr 19, 2009 20:09:40 GMT -5
Zip. The plug was out when I got it. BUYER BEWARE??? Dang good lookin saw though. Apparently whoever owned it before didn't believe in cleaning, it was full of oil and dust goo. I'll see if the piston moves with a lil prod through the plug hole. Any other tips please let me know. BTW, I've got bar kits on the way for the sxl bars!!!
a7. I've soaked her w/ liquid wrench and anticipate a tear down. Any tips for a shortcut would be taken with great appreciation.
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Post by MCS on Apr 19, 2009 20:25:33 GMT -5
Chester, Put the flywheel back on so it's snug - you don't have to torque it down, then use your newly make puller bolted to the flywheel and try and break the piston free. Did you try this  |
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Post by OBR on Apr 19, 2009 22:13:24 GMT -5
So, Im wondering, if the piston doesn't look scored/seized... what are the chances of a broken crank bearing or a bent rod??? Just a couple thoughts. Im thinking you're going to have to tear in down to get to the bottom of this one.
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Post by MCS on Apr 19, 2009 23:03:41 GMT -5
Red, Ya, there are lots of possibilities. Could be "not too bad" to "ah  " Some more ideas for chester: - If you can't make the piston move with the flywheel puller then pull the side plate - it's right under the point box. It is easier than pulling the cylinder.
- If you don't see anything inside the crankcase then the jug is next.
- You will have to pull the rear handle, then loosen the cylinder nuts so there is about 1/8" gap and try rocking the crankshaft. If the cylinder goes up and down that means the bearings are free and the piston is stuck
Hey, you got two for $45 what do you expect BTW, what is the condition of the other SEZ |
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Post by chesterwin on May 8, 2009 10:34:42 GMT -5
A7E, I tried the flywheel technique and it didn't work. She's stuck tight! I'm going to rig a grease gun to the spark plug hole like redsqwl suggested and try that next. I'll keep you posted. Sorry about bouncing around the threads.
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Post by MCS on May 8, 2009 22:10:55 GMT -5
chester,
It is most likely a stuck piston but I still think it would be a good idea to loosen the four cylinder nuts and then rock the crank. If the piston is stuck then the jug will move up and down. If nothing moves, then it's a locked crank. You're going to have to pull this thing all apart so doing this isn't any extra work.
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Post by chesterwin on May 9, 2009 8:58:59 GMT -5
a7e, I already had the cylinder nuts off and she was STUCK!!! I realized the piston head was below the compression release port so the grease gun suggestion was out. I'd already buggered the piston with the wooden dowel so I went into a this mutha is coming apart mode and went on it with a steel bolt through the plug hole and a composite hammer. 10 minutes of whack, whack, whack and it started to budge. Another 5 minutes of encouraged pounding and it came apart. I couldn't believe what the cylinder looked like inside! There is a ring about 1/8th inch wide where the chrome is completely stripped out! It looks almost like it was soaked in water and the rings adhered to the chrome? ?? Anyway, I'm going to have to turn one of the other sezs into a temporary donor or find a new cylinder, piston, rings and gasket. Eric has some of these but I don't think I want to make a puchase til I locate everything. Maybe this is a good excuse to buy a "parts saw"? ;D |
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Post by MCS on May 9, 2009 11:14:50 GMT -5
That's right, if the saw has compression relief anything other than brute force is kind of out. You never did say how big the hammer was ;D Since the top end is so bad, have you removed the rod from the crank to see what things look like in the bottom? Does the crank turn freely |
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Post by chesterwin on May 9, 2009 19:34:08 GMT -5
OZ, thanks for the karma. I hope it does some good! A7E, I'll dig deeper before I piece her back togeather. |
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Post by MCS on May 17, 2009 18:16:46 GMT -5
chester,
If you need a cylinder and piston, I have a SEZ I'm going to part out. I haven't pull the jug yet but the saw did run. It has a cracked case by the chain adjuster.
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Post by chesterwin on May 21, 2009 13:45:00 GMT -5
A7E, Did you get my PM?
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Post by MCS on May 21, 2009 21:57:40 GMT -5
chester, saw your PM. I'll pull the jug this weekend and let you know it's condition
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. They wanted $45.00. That EZ sitting on the shelf kept bothering me all winter so this weekend I stopped in and there it was. I knew it didn't run. It would sputter if primed. A decent power tip and an almost new chisel tooth chain. This is the EZ Automatic model I sold at the store in 1971. The Super didn't exist in 1971!
I only thought about how I was going to fix my chainsaw. 
