KrAzY
Dumpster Diver
Posts: 27 
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Post by KrAzY on Jun 22, 2020 17:22:46 GMT -5
Hello everyone, I have a Homelite Super XL Auto and it has the original 24 inch homelite bar on it my issue is after i got it the chain that was on it was pretty bad imo so i went to the manual and it says it should be a 81 drive link chain so i had my local dealer cut me a yellow stihl 81 link chain and when i got home and put it on it tightens up but is nearly at the end of the threads of tentioner leaving only maybe 1/4 inch to - 1/2 left and the bar groove is way out past cover. So i thought i must have gotten wrong chain or that stihl chain must be different even with 81 links so i cross referenced with oregon chain and it also is 81 drive links and seems too long. So i counted the drive links on my old chain that was branded oregon and it only has 80 drive links. So i thought that's odd they don't make a 80 drive link chain and the manual itself for Homelite Super xlao says 81 drive link chain for 24" bar but someone had cut 1 link out of the one i took off the saw probably for same reason above that 81 seems too long despite manual. The problem is whoever did it didn't do it right it had 80 but where they broke it and removed a link they didn't add oposing direction tooth so 2 teeth were going same direction where it is spliced and making saw not cut right and jump around which is why i was replacing it to begin with. So what gives here? I have checked and double checked the manual and it plain as day says 24" 81 drive link chain. maybe it is just me and that's how it is suppose to be but i don't think so. Any ideas? Below i will attach if i can the The bar serial and what it looks like on saw tightened up just snug maybe it is just me and i'm crazy but that slot in bar never comes out that far on any of my other saws and again i have very little left to tighten it after it stretches maybe 3 to 5 more turns with screwdriver and that's it. Any advice would be appreciated.    |
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Post by undee70ss on Jun 22, 2020 17:31:39 GMT -5
What is the condition of the rim or spur sprocket on the saw?  |
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Post by Supercharged86 on Jun 22, 2020 19:44:49 GMT -5
Maybe the sprocket end too?
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Post by nighthawk on Jun 22, 2020 23:07:54 GMT -5
First thing that comes to mind is a hard nose bar that is worn enough to make the difference. I have both versions if you want to measure and compare.
When I have a saw jumping or skipping it is usually because the rakers are not set correctly or inconsistently sharpening of the teeth. For example to much gullet removed from some teeth and not enough in others. Sometimes there is a kink where the chain might have got pinched and not straightening as it rolled around. A lot can cause jumping but for me it’s almost always the rakers.
I have several saws with two teeth facing the same direction next to each other and some with a missing tooth. It still cuts smooth for me. You can get brand new from the factory that way.
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Post by Supercharged86 on Jun 23, 2020 7:28:44 GMT -5
......I have several saws with two teeth facing the same direction next to each other and some with a missing tooth. It still cuts smooth for me. You can get brand new from the factory that way. I totally agree, in fact the SUPER EZ is a prime example of odd numbered drivers at 59 with back to back same side cutters, with never an issue. It sounded like despite being made at 80DL, it was done poorly, leaving back to back cutters. I would say your right though, thats not the issue, likely improperly sharpened, etc. |
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Post by charles on Jun 23, 2020 9:24:23 GMT -5
I have a new 24" Stens Silver Streak sprocket nose bar plus a new 81 link Oregon chain . I mounted them on a SXL AO parts saw and took pictures . The adjustment on this saw is about in the middle of the bar slot and this saw has a worn sprocket . You could take the chain back to your dealer and have it shortened or just run it until you bottom out the adjuster , then have it shortened . Charles  |
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Post by Supercharged86 on Jun 23, 2020 10:03:02 GMT -5
Personally i would run it as-is. Shortening the chain unnecessarily can cause installation problems, as there won't be enough slack to facilitate the sprocket nose. If down the road the now used chain, which has stretched, is too loose, then shorten it.
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Post by edju1958 on Jun 23, 2020 10:43:53 GMT -5
I agree with others who say to run the chain as is & if it comes to the point that the chain needs to be shortened,then do it later.Depending on how much wood you'll be cutting,it could take quite a few yrs.to get to that point.Something else that has just occurred to me is if that's the correct chain tensioner in your saw.Take your saw apart (drivecase cover & outer bar plate off) & take a pic with the bar & chain on,then take a pic with the bar & chain off.Obviously you'll need to loosen the tensioner a bit to get the chain off,but only enough to get the chain off.The tensioner pin should be just a bit past the halfway mark closest to the clutch.Maybe I'm overthinking this,or going on a wild goose chase,but it might be worth it to explore all the possibilities & eliminate any doubts.
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Post by nighthawk on Jun 23, 2020 17:09:22 GMT -5
I decided to look at the picture of the bar a little closer.
Is that evidence of getting hot on the top edge of the bar?
I also noticed how off center the writing is. Is the bar that worn or is it normal to look like that? I looked at mine and the writing is centered.
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KrAzY
Dumpster Diver
Posts: 27
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Post by KrAzY on Jun 24, 2020 13:31:29 GMT -5
ty for the replies everyone, I guess it is normal for it to tighten that far and then just shorten it later, I do think the old chain was filed wrong or something because i could cut better with a butter knife lol the teeth appeared sharp but it wouldn't cut at all i think they used wrong filesize from what i could see they used a 3/8 LP file on a full 3/8 chain i'm sure i could have brought it back but overall condition of chain wasn't worth it to me alot of links were frozen as well and was just easier to have a new one made.
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KrAzY
Dumpster Diver
Posts: 27
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Post by KrAzY on Jun 24, 2020 13:40:44 GMT -5
I decided to look at the picture of the bar a little closer. Is that evidence of getting hot on the top edge of the bar? I also noticed how off center the writing is. Is the bar that worn or is it normal to look like that? I looked at mine and the writing is centered. As far as i can tell the nose spins freely and looks fine but i took several more pics of both sides of bar and the nose it looks like it indeed got a bit hot in that one spot above the H on the one side from the looks of it but i got it that way it wasn't me haha so i dunno. But i do know the bar rails need retightened there seems to be alot of wiggle in the chain but otherwise i think it is in decent condition for such a old bar. I'll just put links this time rather then use the image code it seems to take up entire page with my attachments lol sorry everyone for that on first post i need to figure out how to do thumbnails in posts  imgur.com/u0slUOGimgur.com/DXlIxivimgur.com/5lWYiXPI agree with others who say to run the chain as is & if it comes to the point that the chain needs to be shortened,then do it later.Depending on how much wood you'll be cutting,it could take quite a few yrs.to get to that point.Something else that has just occurred to me is if that's the correct chain tensioner in your saw.Take your saw apart (drivecase cover & outer bar plate off) & take a pic with the bar & chain on,then take a pic with the bar & chain off.Obviously you'll need to loosen the tensioner a bit to get the chain off,but only enough to get the chain off.The tensioner pin should be just a bit past the halfway mark closest to the clutch.Maybe I'm overthinking this,or going on a wild goose chase,but it might be worth it to explore all the possibilities & eliminate any doubts. I will do that when i get the saw back it has been sent in for other epairs besides this issue but i expect it back soon. But it appeared to be the oem tightener from what i have gathered from alot of responses is that this was just a normal issue with the saw and that shortening link is common on these saws after they stretch but i will take some pics for sure after i get saw back and we can compare. |
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Post by sweepleader on Jun 25, 2020 8:11:10 GMT -5
If "...it wouldn't cut at all...", it was perhaps forced into a log, (with the bar flipped over and the burned area down), resulting in the hot spot. Frustrated operator forgot oil while trying desperately to push saw, thus the saw was for sale.
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Post by Supercharged86 on Jun 25, 2020 8:19:00 GMT -5
Otherwise, looked pretty good. I'd check that groove width with a feeler gauge to be sure it's close to .050".
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