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Post by mikem on Apr 14, 2009 20:19:23 GMT -5
Heh Guys ....New to the forum. Great info ! The tutorials are awesome.
I have a 330 that won't oil. I replaced the oil pump diaphram last year and it still won't oil. Saw has been sitting since then. I am about to tear the saw down to replace the "infamous carb boot issue"( more a preventative maintence item) and was wondering if I should do anything else while the saw is apart other than replacing all the oil/gas lines ? Your help is appreciated.
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Post by sugarcreeksaws on Apr 14, 2009 22:55:00 GMT -5
Hi MikeM,
A few things to check,...first, you want to make sure the lid to the oiler is flat....they can warp since they are plastic. A quick check and fix is to take the lid and "polish" it on a piece of emery paper laid on a known flat surface. A few swipes and then take a look..low spots will still be shiny while the high spots will be polished. Polish until the look is uniform.
The second thing to check is your lines....make sure they are clear of any obstructions and not kinked. Make sure there are no pin holes or cracks.
The third thing, and, this will be easy to check since you are going to change the boot, is to check the valves. The valve pyramid sits right under the boot. Make sure they are laying flat against the pyramid holder. If they do not close, it will be difficult for the crankcase to build up the necessary pressure to run the oiler. A tell tale sign that this maybe happening is if your getting gas blowing back out of the carb while the saw is running.
Let us know what you find and good luck!
Talk to you soon!
Joe
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Post by mikem on Apr 15, 2009 8:23:34 GMT -5
Thanks Joe....I will incorporate all your suggestions during breakdown and re-assembly. Does the 330 oil pump need to be "primed" once the oil tank has been completely drained ? Should the valve not be seating and require replacement, is this item easily obtainable ? Thanks again ! One other question....as I plan to replace all hoses, are the gas and oil lines made from different material ? It was suggested to me to use Tygon, as it is very durable but expensive.
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Post by mikem on Apr 15, 2009 19:32:29 GMT -5
Update:
Disassembled the saw today down to the point of carb boot replacement. The following is what I found:
1) The boot is intact but deteriorated ands needs replacing. This has been ordered.
2) I believe the oiling problem was caused by a kinked vacumn line from the the oil pump to the nipple on the crankcase. The hose had hardened, kinked and was completely shut off. Will replace this hose.
3) I pulled the reed block and found one side (both reed valves) standing off the plate .020 The other side of the block is fine with both valves lying flat on the block. In my opinion I should replace the reed block .....please let me know your thoughts. Does anyone have a suggested soource to get the block ?
4) I disconnected the fuel tank and found an extra hole in the tank I cannot explain. It is close to the hole where the shunt(fuel line) exits the tank. The small hole that houses the pressure relief valve is further up the tank close to the filler cap. It looks as though someone ran a screw into the tank as it appears to be threaded.
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Post by lesorubcheek on Apr 16, 2009 7:33:15 GMT -5
I pulled the reed block and found one side (both reed valves) standing off the plate .020 The other side of the block is fine with both valves lying flat on the block. In my opinion I should replace the reed block .....please let me know your thoughts. Does anyone have a suggested soource to get the block ? Are you sure its the reed block that's worn? The reeds may have some crud under them up top causing them not to close, or they could have bent slightly. I'd suggest taking the reed assembly apart, cleaning well, and then putting it back together and see how they seat. Also, try the reeds on either side and make sure whether its the reed block, or the reed itself that you may need to replace. Hopefully you won't need to replace anything. Dan |
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Post by mikem on Apr 16, 2009 11:46:25 GMT -5
Thanks Dan. I pulled the block, cleaned w/ diesel & blew it dry with compressed air. The reeds on one side still stand off the plate far enough to get an .020 feeler guage in the gap. The block appears to be a pre-fab unit. I do not think I can get the reeds off the block. I will check this aft to see if dirt may have lodged further down the reed , possibly holding the top off the block. I think it odd that both the reeds(on that side) stand off the block the same amount. Should all reeds lay flat on the block ??
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Post by lesorubcheek on Apr 16, 2009 12:29:07 GMT -5
OldZip is right. The reeds do come apart. Here's a page from the IPL that'll hopefully help.  The retainer (part #23) will slide off and then the reeds can be removed. I also agree with OldZip in regards to flipping the reeds over. As long as the reed is made symmetrical (and I'm pretty sure these are), then this is a trick to get some more life when no new ones are available. This is where you can tell for sure whether the problem is in the reed block or the reed itself. If after you flip it there's still a large gap, then the block may indeed be worn. If you flip it and it seats, then the problem was the reed bent out slightly. Dan |
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Post by lesorubcheek on Apr 16, 2009 12:35:33 GMT -5
Oh, by the way, this is an example of why I like having IPLs available as single page scanned images! Its easy to stick it in a post to show how to help with a problem. I guess ya could do a screen capture while viewing a pdf and then save it to a file and then send it, but its handy to just find the pic, do a quick resize and host away. Don't want to sidetrack this thread since this is related to the IPL discussion going on, but just wanted to bring this up.
Dan
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Post by mikem on Apr 16, 2009 13:10:43 GMT -5
Thanks for the help guys. :-/The comments and diagram are great. I will pull the reed block apart, flip the reeds over and report the results. Am I to infer that the reeds &/or complete reed block are hard to find as a replacement item ?
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Post by mikem on Apr 16, 2009 18:19:19 GMT -5
Progress to date: The reed cage came apart exactly as you suggested. First, I flipped the reed over, cleaned and reassembled the cage. The gap was smaller.....less than .012 but not real sure because my thinniest gauge is .012 I dissassembled it again and moved the opposite reed to the suspect side. Same result. Small gap about .012. This leads me to believe the cage itself is slightly worn. As it is an occasional use saw, I believe I will re-install the reed & cage without replacing it. OldZip...thank you and Dan !!
Mike
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Post by mikem on Apr 20, 2009 13:31:32 GMT -5
Final report. I reassembled the saw yesterday with new carb boot, new lines and decarboned the saw. Runs great, and oils like the day it was new. I discovered the reason for the "un-authorized" hole in the gas tank. The small engine shop that had given up on the oiler problem and pronounced the saw as "un-repairable & goods for parts only" had re-assembled the saw and reversed two case screws, one of which was longer and penetrated the tank. My thanks again to those that contributed to the repair process and hopefully I will be able to return the favor in the future. Cheers !!
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