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Post by shanesaw on May 24, 2020 15:03:03 GMT -5
Hey there! So I purchased an XL1 for $20. The guy said it needed a pull cord. When I went to start it before I purchased all I heard was clunking when I pulled the cord. I took my chances for $20, and brought it home... Turns out whoever tried to fix the cord didn't even tension the spring back up. A new cord later, some cleaning and it works great! I am by no means an enthusiast, nor do I know much about small engines, but I can figure something out when I need to.
So my main question is that how much bar/chain oil should come out to oil the chain when it's running? When I started it up before the big clean, I would have a small amount that dripped out after turning it off. Now after cleaning it, it's like misting off the chain, and dripping pretty steady when running. Is this normal? Maybe all the gunk was just blocking the oil from coming out how it was supposed to. Is there an adjustment on these saws? Just to clarify, there is no oil leaking out when not running. So I don't think there is a leak or anything. I could be wrong though.
Sorry for the long winded post for a simple question. Just felt like including some background info.
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Post by Hoggwood on May 24, 2020 16:12:24 GMT -5
Hey there! So I purchased an XL1 for $20. The guy said it needed a pull cord. When I went to start it before I purchased all I heard was clunking when I pulled the cord. I took my chances for $20, and brought it home... Turns out whoever tried to fix the cord didn't even tension the spring back up. A new cord later, some cleaning and it works great! I am by no means an enthusiast, nor do I know much about small engines, but I can figure something out when I need to.
So my main question is that how much bar/chain oil should come out to oil the chain when it's running? When I started it up before the big clean, I would have a small amount that dripped out after turning it off. Now after cleaning it, it's like misting off the chain, and dripping pretty steady when running. Is this normal? Maybe all the gunk was just blocking the oil from coming out how it was supposed to. Is there an adjustment on these saws? Just to clarify, there is no oil leaking out when not running. So I don't think there is a leak or anything. I could be wrong though.
Sorry for the long winded post for a simple question. Just felt like including some background info.
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Homelite had a gear driven pump design on your XL-1 AO (automatic oiler) and the other brothers (Super Mini and EZ) in the series. The worm gear is driven all the time with no provision for adjustment. They are famous for oiling like nuts. It is normal. It will keep your bar and chain in good shape for a long while. They will leave a puddle in short order if left sitting for more than a minute while idling. The same pump design is common in other series saws.
Designed in an era when oil was cheap and environmentalists still milled old growth fir.
You did well at $20. 2.5 cubes of old school reed valve muscle. It will pull a 16" full comp all day long and sound sublime while doing so. Looking at the grip start, I am guessing it might be a 1977 or earlier model. If so, you likely have points magneto. Later saws switched over to the blue Prestolite electronic ignition, which is problematic. There should be a tag on the air box starter side. T77...., T78.... etc., will tell you the year. |
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Post by fossil on May 24, 2020 16:20:42 GMT -5
It should be putting out a lot of oil.
A suggestion, Make sure the line in the oil tank is hooked up and not torn or has a pin hole in it. The screen may be plugged as well.
You can take the line out of the tank.
There is a fitting on the starter side that's just ahead of the carb box near the top of the saw going into the oil tank. You may have to take the air filter cover and starter off to get a socket on it. The fitting has the pick up line in the tank and a line that comes off the fitting to a black hose which disappears under the tank and goes over to another fitting which goes to the pump.
Hope that makes sense.
If that looks OK, remove the clutch and take the pump off to make sure that's not plugged up
If you see bubbles at the discharge port on the bar pad when the oil is dribbling out with the saw running, you have an air leak somewhere.
If you take the clutch off, make sure it's tightened securely when you put it back on. If you don't and run the saw without a bar and chain on it. There's a good chance it will spin off on deceleration and travel very quickly somewhere.
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Post by shanesaw on May 24, 2020 16:23:32 GMT -5
Wow! Thanks for all that info. I really appreciate it. Good to know that there is no issues with the oiling. Exactly how you described it, is what's happening. Oil for days lol I went and checked, it says T78. Would that indicate this model could have the problematic ignition you were mentioning? Or was that implemented even later?
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Post by Hoggwood on May 24, 2020 16:30:01 GMT -5
Pull the starter cover. 4-5/16" flange head screws. The infamous coil proudly stands out in blue. 77-78 is right around the time of transition between ignitions. It was also around the time they changed the style of grip start. Hence, my guess. No worries on the blue coil if it wears one. Some run without problems for decades and your saw has seen some action. It is the well preserved saws that stayed that way where I usually find the blue Achillies.
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Post by 5terrysupersaws on May 24, 2020 16:32:32 GMT -5
Wow! Thanks for all that info. I really appreciate it. Good to know that there is no issues with the oiling. Exactly how you described it, is what's happening. Oil for days lol I went and checked, it says T78. Would that indicate this model could have the problematic ignition you were mentioning? Or was that implemented even later? Post up a pic of the ID tag, I'm always on the 'hunt' for unknown and earlier Serial numbered models. Thanks! |
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Post by shanesaw on May 24, 2020 16:53:51 GMT -5
It should be putting out a lot of oil. A suggestion, Make sure the line in the oil tank is hooked up and not torn or has a pin hole in it. The screen may be plugged as well...... (Didn't want to quote it all just to keep it short lol) Thanks, man. I will definitely check on those things. Let's just be honest... I am a novice at best here, so learning this stuff is fun. 5terry here is that ID tag you asked for  |
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Post by 5terrysupersaws on May 24, 2020 17:18:12 GMT -5
Thanks for the ID tag pic !
*UT:10483 ( XL-1 AO ) SN:T7807212 .. DOM:1978 .. UT# last built in '79
Earliest on record so far; onlyhomelites' - SN:T7700505
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