Tip for Fixing a Malfunctioning or Inoperable Bar Oiler Pump
May 21, 2020 2:30:39 GMT -5
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Post by alaninpa on May 21, 2020 2:30:39 GMT -5
In another one of these 240, 245 Family message threads, one individual noted that he was experiencing a low chain bar oiling issue with his 240. Specifically, he noted that his saw’s impulse actuated oil pump couldn’t seem to hold a vacuum or a small amount of pressure. Everything else, including the diaphragm, appeared to be OK.
Greg Underwood (Undee70ss) wisely explained to him that the faulty oiler was likely attributed to a faulty duckbill check valve that’s located inside the oil cap. Having experienced this exact same problem with my own Homelite 245’s oiler, I have to praise Greg’s suggestion for being spot-on! A defective duckbill check valve and/or brass vent filter in my oil cap is what ultimately proved to be the likely culprit behind my saw’s minimal to absolutely no automatic bar oiling, even when trying to use the saw’s manual pump.
A duckbill valve is a one-piece, rubber or synthetic elastomeric component that acts as a backflow prevention device or one-way valve or check valve. Duckbill valves have two elastomeric lips/flaps, usually shaped like the beak of a duck, which prevent backflow and allow forward flow.
Located on the top exterior of both the fuel and oil caps is a small, round brass vent filter that’s about the size of a pencil eraser. Directly behind the vent filter is a very small duckbill valve. Over time, that brass vent filter can become clogged with dirt and grime and/or the duckbill valve’s rubber or synthetic elastomeric material simply turns to goo. That, in turn, prevents air from entering the tank which subsequently creates a vacuum. For the oil tank, this will prevent the oil pump from working properly. For the fuel tank, this will prevent the engine from running properly.
Unfortunately, when diagnosing their oiler’s problem, many 240/245 owners will thoroughly inspect everything else BUT their oil cap with its brass vent filter and duckbill valve and the associated problems the failure of those parts can actually cause. Simply put, those two parts are oftentimes overlooked causing many frustrated saw owners to shelve their saws with an oiler that’s presumed by them to be completely unfixable.
Fortunately, both the brass vent filter and duckbill valve are fairly cheap, replaceable parts. On the Homelite 245, the brass vent filter and duckbill valve are part numbers 69454 and 69451, respectively. Those part numbers are the same for both the oil and fuel caps. Of course, before replacing the brass vent filters, one might first attempt to clean them to see if that possibly helps.
In my case, I was able to determine that the oil cap on my saw was the culprit, after swapping it with the fuel cap and then testing to see if both the automatic and manual oiler pumps worked properly… which they both did.
One should be able to easily remove the brass vent filter using a sharp, pick-type tool, providing access to the duckbill valve located directly behind it. However, I personally found it very difficult to remove the brass vent filter from my oil cap and was ultimately unable to do so. I have no idea why that was the case, since I believe that part is not normally supposed to be so hard to remove. Maybe somebody else can provide some insight on that issue? Consequently, I found it easier and cheaper to simply replace the entire oil cap with a new one that already conveniently included a new brass vent filter and duckbill valve preinstalled.
Hope this info helps anybody who is struggling with and frustrated by their malfunctioning bar oiler.
Good luck!
Alan
Greg Underwood (Undee70ss) wisely explained to him that the faulty oiler was likely attributed to a faulty duckbill check valve that’s located inside the oil cap. Having experienced this exact same problem with my own Homelite 245’s oiler, I have to praise Greg’s suggestion for being spot-on! A defective duckbill check valve and/or brass vent filter in my oil cap is what ultimately proved to be the likely culprit behind my saw’s minimal to absolutely no automatic bar oiling, even when trying to use the saw’s manual pump.
A duckbill valve is a one-piece, rubber or synthetic elastomeric component that acts as a backflow prevention device or one-way valve or check valve. Duckbill valves have two elastomeric lips/flaps, usually shaped like the beak of a duck, which prevent backflow and allow forward flow.
Located on the top exterior of both the fuel and oil caps is a small, round brass vent filter that’s about the size of a pencil eraser. Directly behind the vent filter is a very small duckbill valve. Over time, that brass vent filter can become clogged with dirt and grime and/or the duckbill valve’s rubber or synthetic elastomeric material simply turns to goo. That, in turn, prevents air from entering the tank which subsequently creates a vacuum. For the oil tank, this will prevent the oil pump from working properly. For the fuel tank, this will prevent the engine from running properly.
Unfortunately, when diagnosing their oiler’s problem, many 240/245 owners will thoroughly inspect everything else BUT their oil cap with its brass vent filter and duckbill valve and the associated problems the failure of those parts can actually cause. Simply put, those two parts are oftentimes overlooked causing many frustrated saw owners to shelve their saws with an oiler that’s presumed by them to be completely unfixable.
Fortunately, both the brass vent filter and duckbill valve are fairly cheap, replaceable parts. On the Homelite 245, the brass vent filter and duckbill valve are part numbers 69454 and 69451, respectively. Those part numbers are the same for both the oil and fuel caps. Of course, before replacing the brass vent filters, one might first attempt to clean them to see if that possibly helps.
In my case, I was able to determine that the oil cap on my saw was the culprit, after swapping it with the fuel cap and then testing to see if both the automatic and manual oiler pumps worked properly… which they both did.
One should be able to easily remove the brass vent filter using a sharp, pick-type tool, providing access to the duckbill valve located directly behind it. However, I personally found it very difficult to remove the brass vent filter from my oil cap and was ultimately unable to do so. I have no idea why that was the case, since I believe that part is not normally supposed to be so hard to remove. Maybe somebody else can provide some insight on that issue? Consequently, I found it easier and cheaper to simply replace the entire oil cap with a new one that already conveniently included a new brass vent filter and duckbill valve preinstalled.
Hope this info helps anybody who is struggling with and frustrated by their malfunctioning bar oiler.
Good luck!
Alan