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Post by oleglass on Apr 11, 2009 11:35:30 GMT -5
I am currently working of an older SXLAO that is very dirty and oily.
What do you guys use to remove this crud?
I think carb cleaner would remove the crud, but would also remove the paint, and I have a parts cleaner vat, but the fluid is so hard clean off before painting, I thought something else might work?
The fluid in the vat is used, so it is somewhat oily to begin with.
Any ideas???
Thanks....
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Post by MCS on Apr 11, 2009 13:36:19 GMT -5
Are you just cleaning it or are you taking it apart to paint etc  If you are just cleaning the case and cylinder fins, I would think a spray-on degreaser would work fine. Like you say, carburetor cleaner may take the paint with it. If you can, pull the flywheel too so you can get all the fins clean. Be sure to clean the points with Jack Daniels. woops, I mean have some Jack Daniels while you clean the points with denatured alcohol. |
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Post by RandyMac on Apr 11, 2009 14:27:04 GMT -5
Spray carb cleaner should be avioded, it will take the paint off the older models.
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regl
Groundie
Posts: 6
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Post by regl on Apr 11, 2009 15:05:06 GMT -5
Has anyone ever tried one of those little steam cleaners you get on ebay for $125 or so? they say it's good for cleaning grills and such so it might work on engine grease also.
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zip69
Wud Cuttah
Posts: 45
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Post by zip69 on Apr 11, 2009 15:13:16 GMT -5
put some gas in a spray bottle soak it down and blow it off with a air compressor
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Post by oleglass on Apr 11, 2009 18:23:24 GMT -5
Are you just cleaning it or are you taking it apart to paint etc If you are just cleaning the case and cylinder fins, I would think a spray-on degreaser would work fine. Like you say, carburetor cleaner may take the paint with it. If you can, pull the flywheel too so you can get all the fins clean. Be sure to clean the points with Jack Daniels. woops, I mean have some Jack Daniels while you clean the points with denatured alcohol. I am disassembling it for a rebuild if I can locate all the parts, primarily a piston and rings. I would like to repaint it if I could locate some paint. Anyone know where I could locate some blue paint? I read the post where the man got oriley auto to mix some and put it in a spray can, but I do not have access to this store. Thanks!! |
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Post by topgut on Apr 11, 2009 19:06:27 GMT -5
On the really dirty ones I like to use No2 diesel fuel. Kero would probably work really well also. Scrape the really mean stuff off and then squirt it down with the fuel oil and wait a few minutes.
After that I usually will use air and blast it off or Gumout carb cleaner. Gumout is not too hard on the paint. The cheap stuff you get as Walmart etc will trash the paint and other rubber products. Be sure to stuff a paper towel piece or something in the carb or exhaust port as applicable to avoid getting crud in the cylinder.
You really know how to avoid a filthy saw? Don't use that bar honey crap. Use 30 weight oil and all that sh*t will not stick to the saw in the first place........thats my 2 cents.........J
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Post by richard06877 on May 9, 2009 1:01:08 GMT -5
As I'm ignorant of the protective qualities (or lack thereof) of Chain bar oil compared to straight 30, can someone in the know comment on these two? Hey, if 30 weight doesn't accumulate sawdust, that's good enough for me!
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Post by MCS on May 9, 2009 8:17:28 GMT -5
Bar and chain oil has some stickiness to it to reduce sling. If the oil stays on and in the chain less oil is needed from the pump. Auto oiling provides an even flow of oil to the chair where the older saws with only a manual pump only got a shot once in a while unless the operator was good with his thumb. I was in a shop and noticed that a brand name chain oil was $14 a gallon. 30 weight oil was the original recommendation oil for the 20MCS for summer use and 10 weight oil in winter. If it was below 0 then it was 4 parts of 10 weight and one part of kerosene.
Bar and chain oil's role is to lubricate the bar rails, the bottom edge of the chain, and the rivets. Without it, the rivets and holes wear and the chain stretches which then creates a mismatch between the pitch of chain and the pitch of the sprocket and increases wear to the sprocket. Poor lubrication of the bar just causes wear of the rails. Poor lubrication of the bottom edges of the chain links will cause them to thin down and then the chain will start breaking at the rivet holes before the cutter is used up.
So, my take is buy bar and chain oil. You will get better life out of all the other saw parts.
If you want to run on cheap side, take a gallon of drained motor oil and add a can of STP.
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Post by RandyMac on May 9, 2009 19:32:46 GMT -5
Yuck, do not use crankcase oil, it will eat the oil pump, it is just plain wrong.
I mix my own, Stp is a good additive, put one can to a gallon. It mixes better if you leave the oil in the sun to warm it up. My current batch is Pennzoil has Slick 50 in, it was on sale, it might even help.
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Post by MCS on May 9, 2009 19:59:53 GMT -5
RM
Can you really make B&C oil with new oil and STP cheaper than you can buy a gallon at a farm & fleet store or Home Depot?
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Post by RandyMac on May 10, 2009 16:30:09 GMT -5
I seem to remember getting 5, 5 qt jugs at $5 a piece, STp was $2.50, only some cheeper than the cheep brand. Damm I'm drunk. Might go over to the ASs site and try to get band
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Post by chesterwin on May 10, 2009 16:49:06 GMT -5
Once you get all the crud and heavy stuff off by whatever method, use some "simple green" degreaser. It's easy on the paint and environmentally friendly. I use it to keep my gas grill clean. My wife hates me frying in the house so I have to use the side burner on the grill or a turkey fryer and the simple green even loosens the cooked on oil from the grill. If you're going to paint I'd do a final clean with acitone.
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Post by lesorubcheek on May 12, 2009 9:27:22 GMT -5
A good air compressor is without a doubt the best tool for cleaning up a saw. Need one that can maintain a least 70-80 psi at the hose and blast away with a small nozzle blower. Got a small compressor at the house that I have to use in bursts and its a nuisance to have to wait for it to pump back up.
Use diluted (3-1 or 4-1) purple stuff with great success to get off grease spots that the air leaves behind. Never had it effect paint or metal other than the paint can dull a bit. I usually rinse with water and then blast again with air. WD-40 is good to give a final coat to help rust protect bare metal after using any water. I try to run a saw a bit after using water to make sure none is left to cause problems. If ya really love a saw, a good wax job won't hurt after its all cleaned up ;D.
Dan
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Post by Urbanchainsawer on May 12, 2009 15:43:13 GMT -5
Gunk engine cleaner at $3 a can works great, also.
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Post by billg on May 13, 2009 0:42:52 GMT -5
I............... Damm I'm drunk. Might go over to the ASs site and try to get band Shi''' should have called me we could have worked out some real good trades ;D Bill |
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Post by mikem on May 14, 2009 13:09:48 GMT -5
A good air compressor is without a doubt the best tool for cleaning up a saw. Need one that can maintain a least 70-80 psi at the hose and blast away with a small nozzle blower. Got a small compressor at the house that I have to use in bursts and its a nuisance to have to wait for it to pump back up. Use diluted (3-1 or 4-1) purple stuff with great success to get off grease spots that the air leaves behind. Never had it effect paint or metal other than the paint can dull a bit. I usually rinse with water and then blast again with air. WD-40 is good to give a final coat to help rust protect bare metal after using any water. I try to run a saw a bit after using water to make sure none is left to cause problems. If ya really love a saw, a good wax job won't hurt after its all cleaned up ;D. Dan I have an attachment for my compressor that combines high pressure air with a siphon hose so you are able to spray an atomized cleaning liquid in conjunction with high pressure air. It is very good at reaching places which cannot be accessed otherwise. Obviously meant to be used outdoors.  |
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Post by chesterwin on May 14, 2009 19:40:21 GMT -5
Got one of those too. Great for adding solution for cleaning! I also use a piece of lamp rod as an extension for the compressor release nozzle. Works great for keeping the crud at a distance.
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Post by RandyMac on May 15, 2009 0:54:52 GMT -5
I............... Damm I'm drunk. Might go over to the ASs site and try to get band Shi''' should have called me we could have worked out some real good trades ;D Bill LOL, I don't use the phone when I drink, keeps down those return calls early the next morning. OZ, no 909, yet One suggestion on cleaning, do not use carb cleaner on the old uprights, it's likely to remove whatever paint is left. Yeah, I found out the hard way. McCulloch enamel seems impervious. |
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Post by chainsawwhisperer on May 15, 2009 6:01:57 GMT -5
I keep 2 jugs of mineral spirits, one dirty, one cleaner. I set the saw or part in a big basin, put on chemical gloves, and start to brush on the solvent. When the big chunks are gone, I place the saw/part on a towel, dump the dirty fluid back into the container, back into the basin with the parts, rinse with the cleaner fluid. Then carefully blow it off with compressed air.(use goggles) I find myself using less and less carb/choke/brake-clean type stuff. I have dissolved a couple of stickers with the stuff  CSW P.S. I do use gloves now, remember all that stuff you dip your hands in, some of it gets absorbed into your system, and it's effects are cumulative over time. Be careful. |
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If you are just cleaning the case and cylinder fins, I would think a spray-on degreaser would work fine. Like you say, carburetor cleaner may take the paint with it. If you can, pull the flywheel too so you can get all the fins clean. Be sure to clean the points with Jack Daniels. woops, I mean have some Jack Daniels while you clean the points with denatured alcohol. 
