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Post by smokenfire76 on Feb 1, 2020 12:25:49 GMT -5
looking to replace the petrified / melted lines on my c-52. what is the better way to go to replace the tank line? take the plate off the front or dismantle the back of the saw to unscrew the fitting. how easy is it to reseal that front plate? i could clean out the inside of the tank if i go that route. what do you folks recommend? and what sealer if I open the tank.
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bit
Collector
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Post by bit on Feb 1, 2020 14:27:44 GMT -5
No need to separate the tank. Reach down in the tank and grab the fuel filter with a long set of needle nose pliers or whatever you have to grab it with. Remove fuel filter. Take the 4 bolts out that hold the tank to the case, remove complete tank from saw. You need to pull the fuel line (from the carb to the tank) off the tank fitting.
Unscrew the 5/16 nipple fitting on the backside of the tank. Pull out old line.
Replace old line line and reassemble in the reverse order you took it apart.
If you decide to clean out your tank, you can separate the tank to clean it out. When I do it, I use permatex motoseal to reseal the tank halves (no gasket) and for added insurance, I line the tank with Red-Kote.
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Post by smokenfire76 on Feb 1, 2020 15:53:25 GMT -5
well well that was a lot easier than I thought once I found the bolts. thanks for the info there bit! Tank is off now. i'll get it cleaned up and get the lines changed. And clean up the rest of the saw while i have it off.
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Post by Supercharged86 on Feb 1, 2020 20:44:45 GMT -5
I didn't have any luck getting that tank fitting out on a few I worked on. Wasn't budging and it felt like it was about to snap off. Ended up pulling the front cover off and then resealed it.
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Post by onlyhomelites on Feb 2, 2020 8:35:25 GMT -5
I've yet to come across one that wouldn't come out...but I use a very specific procedure. I bought a true 5/16" impact socket, which of course is 6 point. I start with my Dewalt impact driver and I give it a couple hammers TIGHTENING to help break loose the decades of whatever. Then I reverse it and try to spin the fitting out. I'll do this 3-4 times and it has always come out by this time. If this were to fail, then it's time to look at splitting the tank. What I do know from experience is a std. box-end wrench is going to round that fitting off almost every time. You may not need an impact driver, but a good 6-point socket is a must.
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Post by Supercharged86 on Feb 4, 2020 11:07:03 GMT -5
I've yet to come across one that wouldn't come out...but I use a very specific procedure. I bought a true 5/16" impact socket, which of course is 6 point. I start with my Dewalt impact driver and I give it a couple hammers TIGHTENING to help break loose the decades of whatever. Then I reverse it and try to spin the fitting out. I'll do this 3-4 times and it has always come out by this time. If this were to fail, then it's time to look at splitting the tank. What I do know from experience is a std. box-end wrench is going to round that fitting off almost every time. You may not need an impact driver, but a good 6-point socket is a must. Thnaks Leon, will keep that in mind. |
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Post by Jeffcf on Oct 2, 2020 14:43:02 GMT -5
Can you post a pic of where the 4 bolts are? No need to separate the tank. Reach down in the tank and grab the fuel filter with a long set of needle nose pliers or whatever you have to grab it with. Remove fuel filter. Take the 4 bolts out that hold the tank to the case, remove complete tank from saw. You need to pull the fuel line (from the carb to the tank) off the tank fitting. Unscrew the 5/16 nipple fitting on the backside of the tank. Pull out old line. Replace old line line and reassemble in the reverse order you took it apart. If you decide to clean out your tank, you can separate the tank to clean it out. When I do it, I use permatex motoseal to reseal the tank halves (no gasket) and for added insurance, I line the tank with Red-Kote. |
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gonup
Saw Builder
Posts: 132
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Post by gonup on Oct 2, 2020 19:38:48 GMT -5
One of them holds the recoil rope starter on and another is less than 1 inch away. The other 2 are at the guide bar in recessed holes. One at the top and one at the bottom.
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bit
Collector
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Post by bit on Oct 6, 2020 7:11:10 GMT -5
Can you post a pic of where the 4 bolts are? No need to separate the tank. Reach down in the tank and grab the fuel filter with a long set of needle nose pliers or whatever you have to grab it with. Remove fuel filter. Take the 4 bolts out that hold the tank to the case, remove complete tank from saw. You need to pull the fuel line (from the carb to the tank) off the tank fitting. Unscrew the 5/16 nipple fitting on the backside of the tank. Pull out old line. Replace old line line and reassemble in the reverse order you took it apart. If you decide to clean out your tank, you can separate the tank to clean it out. When I do it, I use permatex motoseal to reseal the tank halves (no gasket) and for added insurance, I line the tank with Red-Kote.  |
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Post by xl130 on Nov 5, 2020 20:12:06 GMT -5
Great information! I’m about to do a fuel line and carb rebuild on a C-51 that I recently acquired.
I’ve never rebuilt a Tillotson HL carb. Any tips or things to look out for?
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Post by edju1958 on Nov 5, 2020 20:31:42 GMT -5
The HL carbs are easy to do because they're just so damn big,IMO.The 1st one I did was on my C71.I've done several others since then.Probably the thing you'll have to look out for is that you'll have to fabricate a socket to fit the seat.I took a cheapie socket & put it to the grinder to get a socket thin enough to fit in the well.Also,make sure you get the diaphragms & gaskets in the right order.Other than that,you should be good to go.
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