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Post by xl130 on Jan 28, 2020 11:28:03 GMT -5
First time rebuild question:
I just received my NOS cylinder for my XL130 rebuild project. Now this may be a dumb question, but I’m the kinda guy that would rather sound dumb than proceed blindly and be stupid.
The inside of the cylinder is not polished shiny like I had expected to see. Do I need to prepare the cylinder in any way (other than clean and wipe) prior to putting my new piston and rings into it?
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Post by undee70ss on Jan 28, 2020 11:41:27 GMT -5
It’s not supposed to be shiney. It may be Nicasol coated or chrome lined depending on when it was made. Just clean real good and coat cylinder wall with 2 stroke oil.
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Post by xl130 on Jan 28, 2020 12:00:08 GMT -5
Thanks! I’ll proceed as recommended! Not sure when it was made. It’s pn 64405. It took me quite awhile to find and it cost me a bit so the last thing I want to do is make a bad mistake and wreck it!
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Post by xl130 on Feb 1, 2020 19:30:03 GMT -5
Second newbie XL-130 rebuild question; ( There will likely be more)
When pulling the crankshaft back into the crank casing should you put the seal in first then pull the crank bearing in or, pull the main bearing/ crankshaft and then install seal from outside the case?
Also a put the crankshaft and bearing in the freezer for a day to shrink? Do you need to heat the casing? How much heat? Pop it in the oven like cooking a pizza hot? If heating it I guess put the seal in after everything is together and cools as to not damage the seal? (They must be resistant to heat but how hot is too hot?)
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Post by onlyhomelites on Feb 2, 2020 8:30:20 GMT -5
I typically install the seal first as I don't heat the drivecase, but as you pointed out heating the casing would require leaving the seal out to be safe. Most of the time I don't even cool the crankshaft & bearing, but a couple hours in the freezer would be more than enough.
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Post by xl130 on Feb 2, 2020 8:40:32 GMT -5
Thanks for the insight. I’ll try freezing the crankshaft & Bearing first and see how well things slide into place. Hopefully that’s all it takes.
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Post by xl130 on Feb 16, 2020 19:52:47 GMT -5
She almost ready for a test fire. Maybe tomorrow. Pretty pumped....and a bit nervous. I've never ripped one of these things down and completely rebuilt. Any tips on new engine break in??
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Post by onlyhomelites on Feb 16, 2020 23:17:41 GMT -5
Don't give it any sustained rev's to the moon, run it just a tad rich and vary the speed a bit now and then if you are bench running it for break-in.
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Post by xl130 on Feb 17, 2020 18:57:51 GMT -5
Moderate success. It’s alive! Run two tanks through it on idle and a few revs. Fails the tip test though. Must be sucking air somewhere. Gee I hate to tear those darn seals out after just putting them in. I’ll be starting on the clutch side. That seal didn’t go in well. Had all kinds of problems.
Can’t feel too bad though...First ever tear down and rebuild and it runs!
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Post by onlyhomelites on Feb 17, 2020 21:25:20 GMT -5
You're getting there; the rest will be easy most likely. At least you know where to investigate...
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Post by xl130 on Feb 18, 2020 8:51:24 GMT -5
Has anyone used the CR-6130 oil seal on the clutch side? No spring in it. But it’s a lot cheaper than the Dichtomatik 0609318TC and I don’t have to wait for two weeks for it to get shipped in.
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Post by edju1958 on Feb 18, 2020 10:25:08 GMT -5
Has anyone used the CR-6130 oil seal on the clutch side? No spring in it. But it’s a lot cheaper than the Dichtomatik 0609318TC and I don’t have to wait for two weeks for it to get shipped in. I looked up the Dichtomatik seal on MRO Supply & it should have a spring.They're only a hair over $6 there.If you order $20 or more then shipping is free. Ed
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Post by onlyhomelites on Feb 18, 2020 10:37:16 GMT -5
Has anyone used the CR-6130 oil seal on the clutch side? No spring in it. But it’s a lot cheaper than the Dichtomatik 0609318TC and I don’t have to wait for two weeks for it to get shipped in. I've never substituted a non-spring seal where a spring was originally used. For me personally, I'd only go that route if it was the only option, especially on a saw that I was invested in.
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Post by xl130 on Feb 18, 2020 10:50:08 GMT -5
I want a seal that will last.....Looks like the Dichtomatik it is.
MRO Doesn’t ship out of the USA. I’ll have to go with the local guys again. Oh well. Been workin this saw since November. What’s another couple weeks....
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Post by fossil on Feb 18, 2020 11:53:12 GMT -5
A couple of other options with garter springs.
Timken (National) 16X24X4 Spring double lip
23,80 24,00 4,00 mm, which is
Shaft size .629"
.937" saw case pocket Dia .945" Actual OD is Rubber coated Recommended interference to the case pocket is .006" +/- .003" .157" width
Daemar
S06209318A 0.625 0.938 0.189 Rubber coated seal. Single sealing lip.
I measure the actual new 58308 seal OD (metal case) diameter at .939". Metal case interference fit is generally +.004" to +.005" over pocket size.
Seals (double lip) have a sealing lip and a dust lip for abrasive environments like grinders, belt sanders etc. and generally not required on chainsaws. They do not give any advantage in sealing over single lip seals.
Single lip seals like the Daemar seal are usually cheaper to buy.
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Post by xl130 on Feb 18, 2020 12:05:07 GMT -5
Thanks fossil. That’s great information. All of this is pretty new to me so that kind of help is greatly appreciated!
I’ll look into the availability of those other seals.
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Post by fossil on Feb 18, 2020 12:48:22 GMT -5
Don't forget to build up the step on the crankshaft. It's a bit of a pain because the step is so low in the saw case so if you use tape start with short pieces so you don't get any past the step.
If you do get it past you'll likely ruin the seal when you pull the tape out.
Put some grease on the tape an seal lip(s) before you slide the seal over
I clean the shaft off with some kind of degreaser like brake cleaner so the tape sticks.
Make sure that the garter spring is still in the old seal and if it's missing make sure you find it and pick it out.
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Post by xl130 on Feb 18, 2020 13:47:59 GMT -5
fossil- Do you have a product code for the Timken National ?
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Post by fossil on Feb 18, 2020 15:19:31 GMT -5
fossil- Do you have a product code for the Timken National ? The product code for metric seals is almost always the size unless it crosses directly to in inch seal. Be careful as some listed like 16X24X?? will have slightly different diameters on the OD so it's important get the exact numbers. The seal you want is 16X24X4 OD of the seal is .945 If you were to order a 16X24X6 the OD of the seal would be .953" and would not fit If you are unable to find that seal ask about Daemar. My supplier can get Daemar. Or, I can try for the National / Timken seal on my end. There's a bit of confusion out there as Federal Mogul owned National and Timken carried their line of seals. Timken bought National from Federal Mogul. Some vendors know that and some don't. It depends which catalog they have. If the guy you are dealing with doesn't understand the above about metric seals you may want to find an industrial supply house that does. I hope that makes sense.
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Post by sawnami on Feb 20, 2020 7:41:59 GMT -5
Can you not find the OEM seal? I show that I've got 13 of them on hand.
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