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Post by Mikie12 on Jan 27, 2020 17:17:15 GMT -5
Thanks sweepleader; Sounds really straight forward, and I'll set it accordingly. What about the 1/4 turn rich beyond your instructions for the 2 hour break-in period?
I'm willing to go lighter on the oil mix, but still a bit shy given the history I've had with this particular saw. What is the advantage, less carbon build-up in the combustion chamber?
Thanks again, Mike.
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Post by Mikie12 on Jan 29, 2020 17:07:59 GMT -5
An update; I got my Super XL AO going yesterday. I didn't plan it that way, but it's kind of ironic that today just happens to be the saw's born on date, exactly 40 years ago today.
I followed the carb adjustment procedures given by sweepleader and she seems to run great. I also tipped the saw on it's side several times as rowdy suggested watching for any change in idle speed checking for crankshaft seal problems, and there was no change in idle speed.
A follow-up question to sweepleader's high speed carb adjustment; I adjusted the saw at WOT and got it to it's highest RPM and started going rich from there. I noted that in less than an 1/8th of a turn it began the threshold of "four stroking". If I turned just a bit more, it significantly decreased the RPM.
My question is, how far should I go rich from the threshold of four stroking before the saw is considered "properly" and safely tuned? And should I go for a richer setting beyond what is "proper" for the first 2 hours of operation for break-in?
Thanks, Mike.
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Post by rowdy235 on Jan 29, 2020 18:22:49 GMT -5
What I do is richen the mix until it just begins to 4 cycle. Then I put under a good load, not to the point of stalling, but like normal cutting, and make sure it clears up. Ideally you want 4 cycling when not under load and cleared up in a cut. I personally run my saws as rich as I can while still clearing up in the cut. If you get to a point to where it won't clear up when under load, you'll want to lean it out. Usually very minor adjustments.
You will get lots of different opinions on break-in, its as bad as fuel mix lol.
I myself would not go any different than normal but I would check the tune pretty regularly to ensure it was still in tune. As the saw breaks in there will be some adjustment needed of the tuning I am sure.
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Post by edju1958 on Jan 29, 2020 18:57:45 GMT -5
There was a guy over on AS who stated that in your break in period you don't want any constants,meaning no constant idling,no constant WOT,etc.A good way to break it in is to cut up a bunch of limb wood.Do that for about 45-60 min.& shut it down & take a break.Stack up your wood,or load it up,then go back at it again. Ed
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Post by Mikie12 on Jan 30, 2020 17:51:13 GMT -5
Thanks rowdy and edju, that completely answered my questions. Mike
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Post by Mikie12 on Apr 4, 2020 14:52:57 GMT -5
Sorry I'm so late in writing an update but some things came up, and I got really busy suddenly.
First I hope everyone is well and still suckin air.
Once I set the carb mixture, I followed the advise above for break-in and varied engine speed and load for a couple three hours before getting to the extended full power cuts. With the chain properly sharpened, the saw just sucks itself into the wood with no effort on my part. So far I've burned a gallon of mix through the saw and it is performing excellent!
I'd like to thank all who responded to my questions and helped me through the re-building process and to do it correctly. Thanks to you I now have what is essentially a brand new machine.
Take care, and stay well. Mike.
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Post by sweepleader on Apr 4, 2020 22:36:57 GMT -5
Great news, thanks for the update.
Sorry I missed your question at the top of this page. I would have replied that once it was running right, I would just make sure it did not go lean, ever. The advice of the guys above is good and obviously had good results. :{)
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Post by ellsworth74 on Apr 27, 2020 10:27:35 GMT -5
one other thing that not many people talk about is running 85 oct with ethanol in it. Ethanol burns much hotter so there are 2 things I've found u can do. 1 is to go even heavier on the oil mix and run the carb rich. 2 is what I do which is use 93 oct ethanol free and still run it heavy on the oil. The 1974 650 that my dad bought when I was 4 is still up and running today with only a new spark plug, carb kit, fuel lines, rubber boot. And that's cutting wood every Sunday all winter long
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Post by sweepleader on Apr 27, 2020 11:53:47 GMT -5
Adding oil to the mix is a two edged sword. The carb will flow mix volumetrically, so a needle setting is in gallons per cubic foot of air. If oil is added to the mix, gasoline is displaced causing the air/fuel ratio to go lean. The screws must be adjusted to the new ratio if oil is increased or decrease in the mix.
Also Ethanol has less energy than gasoline so more of it is needed to make horsepower, that means more throttle opening which again messes with the mixture.
My point is one should always be aware of the carb settings, especially when changing anything to do with the fuel ratio or the gasoline purchased. I try hard to never change the oil, the ratio, or the ethanol free gasoline I buy.
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