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Post by Mikie12 on Jan 9, 2020 16:22:56 GMT -5
Greeting; I'm looking for an OEM air filter, fuel line tank filter, a fuel hose (hopefully alcohol resistant), and a muffler gasket. Thanks.
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Post by Mikie12 on Jan 16, 2020 19:19:54 GMT -5
No responses yet! I hope Leon or somebody is reading my search for parts???
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Post by edju1958 on Jan 16, 2020 19:25:18 GMT -5
It would help if you gave us a UT # of your SXL.There were many different models of the SXL over it's reign. Ed
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Post by rowdy235 on Jan 16, 2020 22:46:43 GMT -5
Ed's got a point- they built so many iterations of the SXL over the years its hard to tell.
If Leon has them I am sure he will give you the hookup on the parts, but if it were me I wouldn't be too stuck on OEM for the parts you are needing. Its likely aftermarket ones will be as good if not better than the original. Oregon 55-211 is an air filter I've used before and runs about $10. Tygon line can be had fairly affordably as well as fuel filters, I just picked up a kit from amazon a couple weeks ago that came with several sizes of tygon and several fuel filters for less than $10.
I also didn't remember my SXL having a muffler gasket but maybe its missing?
Just want to be clear I'm in no way trying to down Leon- he is great and has a huge selection of awesome NOS parts, just wanting to provide you some other options.
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Post by edju1958 on Jan 16, 2020 23:25:48 GMT -5
Leon also sells Tygon line kits & aftermarket parts.If not for some of the aftermarket grommets he's sourced over the yrs.I'm afraid we'd be paying big bux for the OEM's on Feebay. Ed
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Post by onlyhomelites on Jan 16, 2020 23:35:16 GMT -5
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Post by Mikie12 on Jan 19, 2020 14:46:22 GMT -5
My apologies for the oversight. The UT#10525-A Serial#400280294.
This saw is of late 1979 manufacture, I bought it new in early 1980 and maybe put 25 to 30 hours of operation on it since them. Unfortunately I hot- seized it twice now, the first time was in the late 90’s as I didn’t have the fuel mixture adjusted properly and it seized because the mixture was too lean. Then I hot-seized it again in 2008 as the fuel finder piece came off the hose because of the alcohol laden fuel I was running in it and unbeknownst to me and the mixture went lean again.
So I’m just about finished (for the second time) installing a new piston and cylinder and need an alcohol resistant fuel hose and new air filter. I also thought about using a thin layer of aviation type formagasket on the mating surfaces between the new cylinder and the crankcase and airbox.
But in watching Leon’s vids he doesn’t recommend it, but I’m concerned about these places not sealing completely just using them dry and it sucks air again leaning the fuel mixture leading to another hot-seize. Twice burned-four times shy I suppose. I’d appreciate any guidance and/or suggestions any of you reading this may have on the issues I’ve raised or any other tips relevant to the re-build and safe operation. Thanks, Michael.
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Post by Mikie12 on Jan 19, 2020 16:06:52 GMT -5
Here's some picts of the saw when I finished replacing the piston and cylinder in 2008. It performed just as well as it looked, well, until it seized...
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Post by 5terrysupersaws on Jan 19, 2020 16:56:44 GMT -5
My apologies for the oversight. The UT#10525-A Serial#400280294. This saw is of late 1979 manufacture, I bought it new in early 1980 and maybe put 25 to 30 hours of operation on it since them. Unfortunately I hot- seized it twice now, the first time was in the late 90’s as I didn’t have the fuel mixture adjusted properly and it seized because the mixture was too lean. Then I hot-seized it again in 2008 as the fuel finder piece came off the hose because of the alcohol laden fuel I was running in it and unbeknownst to me and the mixture went lean again. So I’m just about finished (for the second time) installing a new piston and cylinder and need an alcohol resistant fuel hose and new air filter. I also thought about using a thin layer of aviation type formagasket on the mating surfaces between the new cylinder and the crankcase and airbox. But in watching Leon’s vids he doesn’t recommend it, but I’m concerned about these places not sealing completely just using them dry and it sucks air again leaning the fuel mixture leading to another hot-seize. Twice burned-four times shy I suppose. I’d appreciate any guidance and/or suggestions any of you reading this may have on the issues I’ve raised or any other tips relevant to the re-build and safe operation. Thanks, Michael. Welcome to this great site, recommend becoming a member to enable access to the Super XL category. *UT:10525-A ( Super XL-AO ) SN:400280294 DOM; Monday, January 28th, 1980, UT# last built '80 TYGON F-4040-A is compatible with greater than 10% ethanol fuel, plenty of imitations out there..if it isn't printed Tygon F-4040-A on the fuel line then it's not genuine. OEM air filter is: 63589-A , fuel filter with element: A-69923 , element only: 64083 Permatex #58931 can be used sparingly to seal a used cylinder gasket, but a pressure/vacuum test should be done to verify that the crankcase is indeed sealed.
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Post by Mikie12 on Jan 19, 2020 17:05:13 GMT -5
Not sure if the picts went through, so tried here again...
/Users/mac/Desktop/IMG_0077.jpg /Users/mac/Desktop/IMG_0078.jpg /Users/mac/Desktop/IMG_0076.jpg /Users/mac/Desktop/IMG_0079.jpg
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Post by Mikie12 on Jan 20, 2020 14:17:20 GMT -5
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Post by rowdy235 on Jan 20, 2020 14:59:32 GMT -5
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Post by rowdy235 on Jan 20, 2020 15:02:52 GMT -5
Also, ouch on having to rebuild twice now. Last engine I had that had to be rebuilt twice was a Johnson 40hp outboard with the imfamous VRO oil injection. Burned up once under warranty and then again out of warranty. My grandpa axed the VRO the second time and just premixed the fuel, lol.
I tend to run my saws on the rich side, as with modern two cycle oils there's very little chance of fouling plugs. I can't think of much other than that and making sure periodically when you're cutting its still running properly (should 4-cycle / sound like missing at WOT under no load) that I would recommend.
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Post by sweepleader on Jan 20, 2020 18:41:40 GMT -5
I would suggest that you shut it off as soon as it starts to give signs of running out of fuel or otherwise going lean. Do not try to "finish this last cut". You did not say that is what happened but that situation burns a lot of pistons. Glad you are getting it going again, it should have a lot of hours left in it. :{)
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Post by Mikie12 on Jan 21, 2020 16:22:03 GMT -5
Thank you all for the helpful saw identification and part #'s.
It appears I got this saw hot off the press since I bought it in mid February and it was manufactured on January 29 of 1980. I still have the receipt for it from the PV Ranch Supply in Oroville.
Sorry I can't post any of the picts I have of my saw, but only wanted to show that it looks like I just took it out of the box new, suffice it to say I take good care of my equipment (my Dad taught me that) now I wish I could keep it running.
On the second time I hot/seized it, I did get an indication that something was up as I had to keep turning the idle screw rich as I wouldn't idle. But I didn't investigate it further, if I had done so, I would have found that the fuel finder had dropped off in the tank and could have avoided burning it up again.
I'll follow 5terry's advise and lightly coat crankcase, and bottom of the cylinder with the permatex, and you are so right about that stuff, a very little goes a long, long way. Also, Terry, can you tell me about the pressure/vacuum test. Is this something I can do myself, or would need to take it to a repair shop? Does the saw need to be fully or partially disassembled in order to perform the test?
Last question, does anyone know of a brand of tool that has a 7/16 box end that is thin enough that I can get into the two nuts holding the cylinder to the crankcase? I can't get that last little bit of a turn to get the nut into position enough to get another bite for final tightening to the 100 inch/pound torque spec with an open end.
Thank you all again, Mike.
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Post by sweepleader on Jan 21, 2020 17:07:03 GMT -5
A grinder made my wrench fit that spot. It does not have to be very strong and I don't use it for anything else. In fact it is a cheap Harbor Freight wrench, part of a set I bought for grinding and bending to fit where they must.
The pressure test does require some disassembly, you have to be able to block off the intake and the exhaust ports with plates and gaskets. The gaskets can be cut from rubber inner tube or similar, the plates can be just about anything stiff that you can work with. There will not be a lot of pressure so they do not have to be particularly strong. A compression tester adaptor for the plug hole can be used to insert the pressure and/or vacuum.
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Post by Mikie12 on Jan 22, 2020 19:31:25 GMT -5
Thanks sweepleader, Thats a good idea as I don't want to sacrifice one of my good wrenches for that single purpose.
I was thinking of skipping the crank seal test since I've not had a problem with that but that's no sure prediction either. Someone told me once that the symptoms of a leak in the crank seal is that I'll never be able to adjust the carburetor properly or have that adjustment remain consistent. Is this true? If not or partially true, what other crank seal leak indications should I be looking for? Thanks.
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Post by rowdy235 on Jan 22, 2020 20:04:15 GMT -5
Quickest and easiest test for crank seals is to flip the saw on its side (like you are cutting a tree) while idling. If it dies or wants to crank seals are in need of attention.
As far as symptoms, they can cause the saw to be hard to tune as you mentioned.
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Post by Mikie12 on Jan 26, 2020 13:51:25 GMT -5
Thanks rowdy, I'll be watching for that.
I've got everything sealed up and have re-assembled my saw. Next, I want to run the adjustments past everyone here and see if I'm doing it correctly:
The last time I bought the parts, the fella that sold them to me advised me to do the following once I got it back together:
First, set the mixture according to the book, which states in pertinent part to "start a cut into a log, gradually apply enough pressure to stall the chain. If the engine falters, open HI needle gradually until engine will carry the full clutch slipping load with out faltering".
He also added, that when I have adjusted the mixture as per the book, to run the saw at WOT with no load and listen for the "burble" or "four stroking", then for newly rebuilt engines such as yours, to open the needle a further 1/4 turn rich and run it that way for the first two hours of operation until the cylinder and piston break-in.
Does all, any or some of this sound right to you all? Would much appreciate any advise!
On fuel mix, I was advised to use a good quality oil such as Stihl universal two cycle oil which I have a gallon jug of, and to mix it with a non-alcohol regular gasoline @ 32:1.
Any comments on the fuel mix?
Thanks in advance, Mike.
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Post by sweepleader on Jan 26, 2020 16:44:47 GMT -5
The high speed adjustment sounds about right, but I do not bother with the stall it in a log part first. I go straight to the high speed four stroking/miss. Then adjust the idle. I set the idle speed so the saw will run, adjust the mix to fastest, lower the speed, adjust the mix to fastest, lower the speed, repeat as necessary till the chain stops.
Edit: I forgot to add that if the saw does not want to accelerate with the trigger pull, I back out the idle mix screw a little until the acceleration is smooth, then reset the idle speed so the saw will run but the chain will stop. If these adjustments don't work or the saw still does not run right, its back inside for some more fixing.
Opinions on oil mix? How many people are there that own saws? Answer, everyone with an opinion on oil mix. I run whatever 2 cycle oil at 40:1 in everything 2 stroke.
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