mcclain189
Wud Cuttah
Retired Pipefitter/Welding inspector
Posts: 42
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Post by mcclain189 on May 24, 2019 9:16:12 GMT -5
Good morning. 1). When tuning a carb, until I get the "feel", what is the best way to get it right? Tachometer?? I'm good with lean it out til the highest rpm and then back off a bit, I'd like to get them "dead on" 2). I read a post somewhere in here where a guy said to help with the overheating problem on an EZA (next to keeping the cooling fins clean), was to remove the baffle and open the exhaust,, Hmm, isn't that taboo on performance and cooling the piston and cylinder too quickly? 3) Just acquired an EZA, it has the "L" shaped rings. (Looks like one disc.) I have no experance with this design. I had to go to the IPL (24323A/pg3) to see if this was a factory part. When I first saw it, it looks like there are no rings at all. Is there an advantage to this design over the standard 2 ring design , cause she's pumping 145psi. cold Not the greatest pic, but you can see the difference in color between the piston and ring. Serial # 10070407 Type # 10104 Thanks..
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Post by blythkd on May 24, 2019 11:36:38 GMT -5
Asking the best way to set the carb on a 2 stroke is probably about like asking what's the best oil mix ratio.
You'll likely get a few opinions on this but here's mine.
I worked in a Homelite shop for years before we ever even owned a digital tach. I still didn't have much use for it but Homelite "suggested" that we buy one.
Warm the engine up and like you mentioned, hold it at WOT and turn the HI screw in just until it hits top RPM. Then back it out until it 4-strokes. I used to always call it stuttering but learned on this site that most techies call it 4-stroking.
After this initial adjustment, I would always put the saw in a log and make small adjustments then try another cut. I back the HI out about the width of the screwdriver slot and try it again to see if it picks up any more power. Of course, after messing with the HI you may have to fine tune the LO to achieve best throttle response and idling. You could tach it at this point, but I don't really care what the tach says if the saw is achieving top performance.
As for the L ring, I never was a fan and I don't think Homelite was either since they weren't around for long. I think the 2 ring pistons work out better over time. 145psi is plenty good to run so no real worries there. Most Super EZ's put out more though.
As far as mufflers go, I've been opening them up since Day 1 with no issues. In Kansas, the spark arrestor screens always go in the trash. Baffles get opened up. Muffler caps get opened up and on and on. The whole muffler thing is more about 4 strokes and burning up valves. 2 strokes don't mind an open exhaust.
Like you already mentioned, just keep the cooling fins and all the area around the flywheel clean to help ensure peak cooling performance.
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Post by edju1958 on May 24, 2019 12:54:55 GMT -5
I think you pretty much nailed it Brent.I don't have a tach either & I was felling some trees at my neighbor's earlier in the week & he asked me to hand my saw to him so he could cut some branches out to tie a cable in the tree to help guide it on the way down.He was quite impressed with how the saw ran & said I had it tuned really good.I think that tuning a saw by ear is almost a lost art & it doesn't come overnight either.It does take practice.Like Brent said,make sure the saw is hot when you tune it.If you tune a saw when it's not warmed up you'll be defeating your purpose. Ed
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Post by jasonrkba on May 24, 2019 23:04:56 GMT -5
I have a tach and use it when I want to play with a saw but I usually just lean it out then go rich until it slows down then go back a little. This is why I like service manuals. They give you a good starting point.
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