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Post by jerseyhighlander on May 6, 2019 12:57:00 GMT -5
Got lucky the other day, had a friend driving up through Connecticut right through the area where a Super EZ Auto was being offered on CL. Managed to get everything lined up on the fly and got a good saw for just $25.-. It starts right up & purrs with a little gas through the carb but won't start and probably needs a carb rebuild, hopefully happening later today.
Soon as it's running I want to swap out the star sprocket for a rim sprocket. I've already got the clutch hub/drum and rim sprockets. According to the IPL's, there are several other parts necessary for this conversion starting with a different bearing race, which is on it's way. There's also a different thrust washer part# 65027 which I've located but the $7.- w/shipping for what looks like a plain washer is making me crazy. I wanted to get two or three as I have others I want to convert when they're ready to go. Being it's the same bearing and same shaft I'm confused about what is different with the race. I'm guessing the race is a bit longer or shorter? making the thrust washer a bit thicker or thinner? If the washer I need is thinner, I could just take a belt sander to the one I'd be removing... Anyone familiar with this?
The parts lot I grabbed with the bearing races also has the shoes & springs for the 3 shoe clutch so the clutch plate for that on Leon's site is already in my cart. Item 55 on the illustration lists two part #'s, another thrust washer #65024 which is roughly the diameter of the clutch plate & #58833-1 which is another smaller thrust washer, which the IPL calls for but doesn't show in the illustration.  ? They are both also called "inner" thrust washers. I'm wondering if the 58833-1 is the same as #51 on the illustration? All three of these are $5 or more a piece, all from different sellers... In the end I'm going to pay more for this clutch conversion than I did for the saw. I'm sure it will be worthwhile, I just want to cut out buying anything I'm not going to need.
Joyce, you happen to have any of these parts? I'd rather give you my money than the ebay pirates.
Nearly forgot the porn...
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Post by jerseyhighlander on May 6, 2019 15:40:22 GMT -5
Scrolling through the Super EZ parts on Leon's site, I'm finding almost everything so far. Didn't come up when I searched the part #, good thing I looked.
Edit: DUN. Leon come through again!
Still going to need to figure out where that 58833-1 thrust washer is going to go..?
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Post by 5terrysupersaws on May 6, 2019 16:52:37 GMT -5
Scrolling through the Super EZ parts on Leon's site, I'm finding almost everything so far. Didn't come up when I searched the part #, good thing I looked. I too was punching in the part numbers and getting 0 results. Glad you got it sorted. The differences in the thrust washers, bearing race, will be the spacing or clearance. The combination of a rim/drum and 3-piece clutch may need some adjustment, you'll know once it's all assembled. Anyway, nice SUPER EZ-AO , haven't seen that color scheme before. Should polish-wax up real nice.  SN:41723109 ... DOM: Friday, June 21st, of 1974 EDIT: I don't have the 3-piece clutch-- rim/drum combination, so not sure if 58833-1 is needed, but if it is, it would go between the drum and 65024-1 inner thrust washer. |
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Post by jerseyhighlander on May 6, 2019 23:24:23 GMT -5
Scrolling through the Super EZ parts on Leon's site, I'm finding almost everything so far. Didn't come up when I searched the part #, good thing I looked. I too was punching in the part numbers and getting 0 results. Glad you got it sorted. The differences in the thrust washers, bearing race, will be the spacing or clearance. The combination of a rim/drum and 3-piece clutch may need some adjustment, you'll know once it's all assembled. Anyway, nice SUPER EZ-AO , haven't seen that color scheme before. Should polish-wax up real nice. SN:41723109 ... DOM: Friday, June 21st, of 1974 EDIT: I don't have the 3-piece clutch-- rim/drum combination, so not sure if 58833-1 is needed, but if it is, it would go between the drum and 65024-1 inner thrust washer. Glad to hear it wasn't just me. Thanks for all the other good info.
Got the bar cleaned up earlier. Wasn't too bad to begin with so not too much work. Looking everything else over, after cleaning the filthiest air filter I've ever seen, I'm going to gas it up and see if it'll start tomorrow. Took the cover off the fuel pump side of the carb and the diaphragm was still very flexible. Maybe won't need a rebuild... We'll see. Just need to clean out all the junk that made it past the filter and into the carb chamber.
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Post by jerseyhighlander on May 13, 2019 18:51:33 GMT -5
So this project has moved forward a bit but has hit a couple bumps too. I ran it a bit, did some cutting with it and besides stalling a few times dropping out of a cut, it just felt like it needed a carb rebuild so I benched it and the next day my parts showed up so I figured I'll do that and the rim sprocket/clutch swap at the same time. Started with the sprocket/clutch and the confusion about what parts were really needed and in what order just got worse. The new inner thrust washer is the same thickness, just smaller diameter, could have left the old one on with no ill effect. The bearing race... The new one, part number from the IPL, can't imagine what it is for, but it's not for the Super EZ. The inner diameter is waaay larger than the crank spindle. Length was exactly the same so just used the old one. Couldn't see a reason not too. The 58833-1 thrust washer, the one that isn't pictured in the IPL just identified along with the larger one that goes inside the clutch cup... Can't see how that could possibly fit in there, decided to leave it out. After all that fun, and cleaning things out better, I noticed the bar tension screw was badly bent so figured I'd rob one from a parts saw for now and replace it. Cleaned up a little better one it was out and noticed the case was cracked right at the screw head. Traced to the other side and at first thought it didn't mater as it drops into the hole of the bar stud but on closer look, it is traveling up the channel where the screw sits, toward the drive case/crankcase.
My current options are, take it off, drill a hole at the end of the crack to stop it, bolt on some bucking spikes to reinforce the other end and forget it. Or, drill the hole and weld the crack. 2) Swap it out with another drivecase. I have an EZ Auto with blown cylinder/piston that is for parts and same part number and even a NOS drivecase is fairly cheap. I'm leaning toward option 2, can always weld the old one sometime later.
Either option I think I have to pull the drivecase to do it and thought I'd have to deal with a gasket at that point but it's apparently an o-ring in there. Still, the old one isn't likely to be reusable at this age. (opinions?) But they are available. Doesn't look too involved. A few screws and maybe some fuss with the oil seal/bearing clip?
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Post by rowdy235 on May 13, 2019 21:32:00 GMT -5
I have an SXL that has that same crack, been like that as long as I've had it and never gave me a problem lol. Really the adjuster just puts tension on the chain, when you tighten the nuts down that's what does the actual holding. Possible you could clean it up and apply some jb weld? If you're not wanting to keep it pristine of course. Welding is obviously the best choice but I'd wait to have an excuse to pull the side case  |
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Post by 5terrysupersaws on May 13, 2019 21:38:48 GMT -5
Removal/replacement of the drive-case is quite involved and requires complete disassembly.
The crankshaft stays attached to the drive-case via bearing retainers and screws. To remove the crankcase
the connecting rod must be removed first... a real p.i.t.a. ... don't know of a different method.
I too have a very nice condition XL-1 with a cracked drive-case in the exact same location ... probably
caused by a pinched bar and a two-fifty pound gorilla trying to remove it. Think I'm going to make an
extra thick bucking spike for the repair if I can get the two halves to line up better and close the gap.
My apologies for no useful info on the thrust washer, race, clutch/rim dilemma.
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Post by jerseyhighlander on May 15, 2019 17:50:25 GMT -5
No apologies, can't expect you to be 100% accurate where even the IPL apparently has bad information. Pretty strange, that optional bearing race has a substantially larger inner diameter... Not made for that saw at all. The other stuff just kind of follows suit.
Given how the bar adjuster screw was bent, I'm pretty sure somebody cranked down the bar nuts when the adjuster lug wasn't lined up the the hole in the bar. I'm half tempted to just brace it with the bucking spike and see how it goes but I'm pretty familiar with how cracks in castings like to grow & migrate if not stopped in some way. And vibration isn't going to help that. It's gotten to the rearward rib where the bar adjuster screw passes through again with the nut on the end. Possibly that rib is thick enough to halt it but no way to be sure & I don't want it to progress to the area that is the wall of the crankcase. Maybe I'll do an exploratory on that dead EZ Auto first.
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? They are both also called "inner" thrust washers. I'm wondering if the 58833-1 is the same as #51 on the illustration? All three of these are $5 or more a piece, all from different sellers... In the end I'm going to pay more for this clutch conversion than I did for the saw. I'm sure it will be worthwhile, I just want to cut out buying anything I'm not going to need.
