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Post by sawnami on Nov 24, 2018 13:20:49 GMT -5
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Post by jerseyhighlander on Nov 24, 2018 14:54:34 GMT -5
Love that saw.
What ate the old coil? Looks like corrosion or something disagreeable ate into it.
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Post by sawnami on Nov 24, 2018 15:12:19 GMT -5
Love that saw. What ate the old coil? Looks like corrosion or something disagreeable ate into it. Thanks! The blue shell appears to have softened and deteriorated in that area. The resin part is intact.
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Post by undee70ss on Nov 24, 2018 16:35:46 GMT -5
Those blue Prestolite/Wico modules were known to be bad. How hard was it to press out as I don't think they were meant to be pressed out. I suspected the modules were the same, only the core was different. At least thats another option on those series of saws. Thanks for posting that.
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Post by sawnami on Nov 24, 2018 18:46:52 GMT -5
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Post by onlyhomelites on Nov 24, 2018 19:30:24 GMT -5
Beautiful saw and nice fix! I've played around with the coil swapping a bit myself...as long as you stick with the proper manufacturer, the ignitions seem to be pretty forgiving from one saw to another. One time I even was able to take an electronic coil from a Super 2 and use it on a Super XL with a Phelon flywheel and coil leg!
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Post by sawnami on Nov 24, 2018 19:45:04 GMT -5
Thanks Leon! I sometimes wonder if it has to do with how the coil windings are wound. I remember that the distributor pole piece for an Oldsmobile wouldn't work on a Chevrolet because the windings were wound opposite of each other.
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Post by 5terrysupersaws on Nov 25, 2018 0:23:29 GMT -5
Not an expert in this area (ex GM Tech), but the difference between a Wico and Phelon flywheel is magnet polarity.
The primary cause of failure in a Prestolite module is a poor system ground connection (casual/friction) between the armature and module.
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Post by undee70ss on Nov 25, 2018 9:11:01 GMT -5
Not an expert in this area (ex GM Tech), but the difference between a Wico and Phelon flywheel is magnet polarity. The primary cause of failure in a Prestolite module is a poor system ground connection (casual/friction) between the armature and module. Is there anyway of preventing that casual/friction?
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Post by sweepleader on Nov 25, 2018 9:41:25 GMT -5
I think what he meant was the connection was casual and made only by friction with the core. If that is correct, more friction would lead to a better connection. Maybe stuffing a shim or short piece of bare wire in between the contact points would help??? Guessing here, never fixed one.
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Post by 5terrysupersaws on Nov 25, 2018 18:43:04 GMT -5
Correct sweepleader, the system ground connection is a terminal on the module that makes casual contact with the armature when the module is seated against it. _________ | | | core | | | <---- System Ground |________ | module
Corrosion in this area can cause a loss of contact, resulting in no spark and can damage the SCR.
Full credit given to dynodave for his explanation in the thread below;
houseofhomelite.proboards.com/thread/7304/homelite-super-auto-prestolite-coil
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Post by blythkd on Sept 28, 2019 9:01:00 GMT -5
I know this is an old thread but I don't understand something that I read here and I'm trying to learn. First off, I can disassemble and repair almost anything mechanical but, and here's the but, when it comes to electrical, especially electronics, I'm about the biggest dummy you'll ever find. I know when an electronic ignition won't work, replace it. That's about the extent of my knowledge on electronic ignitions.
So earlier in this thread is a reference to "only firing on the start leg." I'm trying to put 2 and 2 together here and wonder if there's a start leg and run leg similar to capacitor terminology? Or am I way off base?
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Post by jerseyhighlander on Sept 29, 2019 1:01:09 GMT -5
I know this is an old thread but I don't understand something that I read here and I'm trying to learn. First off, I can disassemble and repair almost anything mechanical but, and here's the but, when it comes to electrical, especially electronics, I'm about the biggest dummy you'll ever find. I know when an electronic ignition won't work, replace it. That's about the extent of my knowledge on electronic ignitions. So earlier in this thread is a reference to "only firing on the start leg." I'm trying to put 2 and 2 together here and wonder if there's a start leg and run leg similar to capacitor terminology? Or am I way off base? It's not completely off from start/run capacitors except it doesn't involve a capacitor. The coil itself is essentially a step up transformer (you need to have some understanding of the physics of transformers here) with a primary winding and a secondary/high voltage winding. The flux of the magnets on the flywheel isn't enough to give you the juice you would need straight from the coil to the spark plug, so it uses the magnets to create the current it can in the primary winding, that then creates and even bigger magnetic flux to excite the secondary winding with much higher energy. This with the points/condenser or module being part of the works of the primary winding.
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