Super XL 925 wont idle and air filter question

[Deleted]

In effort to restrain myself from cluttering up the forum with a bunch of likely useless posts I decided to try and get two questions into one here. First off my Super XL-925 was running like a champ a few weeks ago but I got it out today and that was not the case. It was a bit harder to crank and once I cranked it I soon learned it didn't want to idle. It runs full throttle like a top and sounds great too I might add but when it comes back to idle it only idles a few seconds then dies. I opened the lo side needle and that seemed to help with starting but it didn't have much effect if any at all on the idling. I'm guessing maybe stopped up and probably a new carb kit but just thought I would get a feel of what some true "master saw builders" think. 

I was also looking at ordering and air filter for it. There are several on ebay at reasonable prices but things like the air filters I tend to look and see if someone like stens or some others might still have these in production as I believe the ones for the super XL are. Anyway I noticed that little red barn had some new ones but they looked to be a bit odd to me. By that I mean the outer edges appeared to be metal. Now most (all really) of these different homelite air filters that I have seen have rubber around the edges which seems to form a seal when the cover is installed. I wouldn't think the metal edge would act much like a seal so I was wondering if anyone had used these or what some thoughts might be on them. The filter media looked to be a bit different too but I really couldn't tell much from the picture.

John

[undee70ss]

I take it you let the saw fully warm up and it still won't idle? Probably needs carb cleaned and maybe a kit, unless there are other issues.

Ive only used Homelite filters, I really don't know about the aftermarket ones.

[edju1958]

I just bought a filter for my 925 about 6-8 weeks ago & I know I didn't pay more than $20 for it.It's a genuine Homelite filter too.I got it from Bob Johnson.What I usually do when I order from him is wait till I've got a sizeable order,then I'm not paying $3.50 for shipping on just one or two items.

                                                                                                  Ed

[Clasec]

I have found that the early 925's have the steel edged filters and later ones the rubber edged style. Not sure why the change. Maybe a cost cutting measure to go from steel to rubber. I can tell you that a steel edged one is harder to keep the cover  tight and will  vibrate loose if not tightened well. Never had a problem with the steel ones sealing. 

[Deleted]

So I got some time today and went through the carb still won’t idle. I did notice a “lope” to it and suddenly it dawned on me I had a SXLAO do that same thing once. So I pulled the carb back off and the intake manifold, peered off into the reeds and sure enough looks like two tiny holes in the bottom reed. Looks like a complete tear down now. I’ve got a tank cover and gasket coming in from Leon’s to fix the fuel leak so I guess I will go all the way to get the reed fixed and make sure there isn’t a little piece on top of the piston now.

[Deleted]

Got an Oiler question also. It ran maybe a total of 1 to 2 minutes on my bench in my vise if that long while I tried to adjust for the lope. In that amount of time there is a mist of oil covering my bench. Is it oiling too much or is it adjustable?

[undee70ss]

Nov 17, 2018 17:43:20 GMT -5 jselden78 said:

Got an Oiler question also. It ran maybe a total of 1 to 2 minutes on my bench in my vise if that long while I tried to adjust for the lope. In that amount of time there is a mist of oil covering my bench. Is it oiling too much or is it adjustable?

Not adjustable. Probably normal amount, older saws generally oil plenty.

[Deleted]

Well turns out my eyes have once again deceived me and there are no holes in the reeds. However there is quite a bit of trash floating in there appears to be pretty corroded around the intake area. Next question I have is when I was looking at the homelite service manual and IPL for this I noticed the carb has a governor valve (maybe that’s right) could that be causing a problem? I haven’t removed it yet but I did make a very slight quick attempt at it and there is some sort of sealer around it that has it locked very tightly in place. If I were to remove this what would I use as a sealer to go back with?

[5terrysupersaws]

Nov 17, 2018 19:18:08 GMT -5 jselden78 said:

Well turns out my eyes have once again deceived me and there are no holes in the reeds. However there is quite a bit of trash floating in there appears to be pretty corroded around the intake area. Next question I have is when I was looking at the homelite service manual and IPL for this I noticed the carb has a governor valve (maybe that’s right) could that be causing a problem? I haven’t removed it yet but I did make a very slight quick attempt at it and there is some sort of sealer around it that has it locked very tightly in place. If I were to remove this what would I use as a sealer to go back with?

The governor valve relates to the high speed circuit so in this case it's probably not the problem.

The low speed or idle circuit is currently causing an issue, one or more of the idle holes may be restricted..

Removal of the Welch plug may be necessary to inspect and run an appropriate sized wire through the holes,
carb. cleaner alone sometimes will not remove these restrictions .

[Deleted]

Well I pulled the old reed valves and seat and found a bit of "white death" around the seal into the intake. I ordered a new read valve assembly (used in excellent condition from Mr Leon) installed it and got the saw fired up. That was not the problem lol. Still won't idle however I got it pretty close. It kinda revs itself up a bit then falls right down to dead. I think I might have carb problem. I have tried doing a vacuum test and pressure test on a few carbs and I ran into some issues. One of which was I didn't know how long it should hold pressure or when you hit the pump diaphragm through the hole how far it should fall. I was reading the homelite service manual when I tested one last. I had one that tested good and its on a super XL now and running pretty good. I had another that when I got to the point in the manual where it says to pressurize the carb then hit the pump diaphragm through the hole in the cover and the pressure should drop just enough to fill the carb body then hold (if I remember that right) I believe that one I had would drop out all the way when I did that. Anyway when I get an opportunity to be distraction free from a wife a 3 year old an 18 month old a needy neighbor and two old truck drivers I will try to test again and post while testing so I can be a little more accurate with my questions. I hope HOH is still around in 20 years cause that might be the first opportunity I have for a distraction free hour lol

[Deleted]

Ok well another simple fixed I over looked. I pressure tested the carb which I posted about a question in another thread but best I could tell it was fine. I reinstalled it and took a close look at the fuel line. I never paid much attention to it since I’ve had the saw and just assumed it was new line as it looked new and it might have been but it either it was cheap or not new. I found it was split where it slips on the metal line going into the tank. It was also splitting a bit each time I put the carb back on. I pulled that piece off replaced it with some new tygon and man does that saw run fine. Took very little adjustment to fix it and it runs like a top. Now I just gotta get the correct line as what I put on it doesn’t seal the hole in the intake box. Once that’s done all I’ll lack is a good clutch cover and that saw will be in great shape

[undee70ss]

Dec 2, 2018 16:57:26 GMT -5 jselden78 said:

Ok well another simple fixed I over looked. I pressure tested the carb which I posted about a question in another thread but best I could tell it was fine. I reinstalled it and took a close look at the fuel line. I never paid much attention to it since I’ve had the saw and just assumed it was new line as it looked new and it might have been but it either it was cheap or not new. I found it was split where it slips on the metal line going into the tank. It was also splitting a bit each time I put the carb back on. I pulled that piece off replaced it with some new tygon and man does that saw run fine. Took very little adjustment to fix it and it runs like a top. Now I just gotta get the correct line as what I put on it doesn’t seal the hole in the intake box. Once that’s done all I’ll lack is a good clutch cover and that saw will be in great shape

You can also pressure test a carb by removing the fuel filter and applying pressure there. This tests the carb and the line as installed. 

[edju1958]

Congratulations John on catching something simple that most anyone could overlook! (I mean that in a good way) Sometimes looks can be deceiving.I've got a 925 that was given to me.It took a lot of parts from Chainsawlady & Leon combined to get that saw put back together.I still can't figure out why someone decided to take the handle assembly off the saw.I still need to either adjust the carb on it,or rebuild it,it doesn't want to idle at all.What size bar do you have on your 925?I put a 28 in on mine.Again,congratulations on a job well done!

                                                                Ed

[Deleted]

I haven’t thought about it that way but that would’ve promptly found my problem...that is if I wouldn’t have ignored it when I saw it

[5terrysupersaws]

68046 Grommet to seal the air box, or the kit: FLS24, which contains two fuel hoses and grommets.


Side note: Hope this post contains useful information... 'cause 500+ posts does not a "master saw builder" make. 

[Deleted]

Thanks I just ordered the kit from Mr Leon's store

[onlyhomelites]

Dec 2, 2018 21:30:32 GMT -5 jselden78 said:

Thanks I just ordered the kit from Mr Leon's store

Packaged up and heading out tomorrow!

[Deleted]

Dec 2, 2018 17:46:06 GMT -5 edju1958 said:

Congratulations John on catching something simple that most anyone could overlook! (I mean that in a good way) Sometimes looks can be deceiving.I've got a 925 that was given to me.It took a lot of parts from Chainsawlady & Leon combined to get that saw put back together.I still can't figure out why someone decided to take the handle assembly off the saw.I still need to either adjust the carb on it,or rebuild it,it doesn't want to idle at all.What size bar do you have on your 925?I put a 28 in on mine.Again,congratulations on a job well done!

                                                                Ed

I am running a 24" on mine. I did make a few cuts with it back when I got it running the first time and I was pretty impressed with its speed. Of course it only made about 3 or 4 cuts before I started having some trouble with it but it was in red oak about 32" in diameter. I think I'm going to leave a 24" on it. I've looked for a 28" for another saw and haven't had much luck.

[edju1958]

I suppose it depends on what you're looking for,whether it be a sprocket tip bar,or a hard nosed bar.I put a hard nosed bar on mine because it was a good price of $48.I've been told that I'll lose 10% power due to friction loss,but at 82 cc,& the fact that the 925's came with up to a 36 in.bar,I think I'll be OK.The 925 won't be one of my main runners anyway,just when I get some really big wood to cut.

                                                                          Ed

[Deleted]

I would think you would be fine with a 28” bar. I’ve learned a bit about the bar length too. The super XL was supplied with up to a 24” bar too and quite honestly that’s all I’ve ever run on one. With a growing fleet of super XLs I have several with a 20” bar and got the opportunity to really run one of them for a day recently. That was a different saw. Way better than I ever remember one cutting. I think I’m going to stick with a 20” on super XL from now on and the 24” on the 925