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Post by edju1958 on Oct 11, 2018 16:07:31 GMT -5
I recently got an SXL-925 for free,but was missing the entire handle assembly.I got all the parts I needed from Joyce & Leon & put it all together.I took a compression reading on it & only ended up with 115 psi.,but that was on a dry cylinder.When I first got the saw I put some fuel in the plug hole & I gave it a couple of pulls & it took right off.I've been told that these saws should have 150 - 200 psi.How much will the compression increase by putting oil in the cylinder?I bought a 28 in.bar for it.Will that be too much bar for an engine with low compression?I also found that the fuel line inside the tank is missing.I flipped the saw upside down & shook it till a piece of line & the filter came out.I need to change the grommet on the side of the tank for the fuel line,it's turned into a mushy black substance.I've heard that putting a fuel line on the inside of the tank is not exactly a treat.
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Post by ettrick on Oct 11, 2018 16:34:18 GMT -5
Leon has a kit for fuel line that i used. It only took me a few minutes, but maybe if you get original style it is more complicated. I would not worry to much about compression if it runs good. It will handle that bar ok. Homelite sold them with up to a 36 inch bar. Dan
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Post by onlyhomelites on Oct 11, 2018 17:15:42 GMT -5
Once the rings lube up, my guess is you'll go to 140-150PSI.
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Post by rowdy235 on Oct 11, 2018 18:43:39 GMT -5
Never heard of a saw of that vintage with 200psi. I generally consider 140 and up to be good, most I have ever seen is 160-170psi. You'll pry notice a nice bump with oil in the cylinder, but I'd also guess after you get it running you'll see an increase too. In my experience if saws sit for any length of time the rings get sticky and you get lowish compression readings. After it runs and gets some fresh gas/oil through it I bet the readings will come up nicely.
Leon's site is awesome, I'd grab a parts diagram from there which should assist you with your fuel line!
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Post by edju1958 on Oct 11, 2018 19:01:15 GMT -5
Thanks Dan for your advice.I've got a fuel line kit on the way from Leon's store. Thank you Leon for your input.I don't know if you'll want to have me put a pic of the saw on HOH,it's been put together from parts from many different saws.The drive case cover is from an XL-98,& the bar is a McCulloch bar.I'm sure that I'll have to rebuild the carb as well.My success rate with carb rebuilding is 50/50 at best.I've had absolutely no success with the Walbro SDC.I don't know what I'm doing wrong.I take the parts out that are in the carb,I clean the carb with carb cleaner,then I put it back together with a new kit.I also take the needles out being careful not to get them mixed up.When I put the carb back on the saw it won't fire up.Often it only runs on a prime.I also make sure that the mounting gaskets are on properly. Ed
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Post by edju1958 on Oct 11, 2018 19:09:29 GMT -5
Never heard of a saw of that vintage with 200psi. I generally consider 140 and up to be good, most I have ever seen is 160-170psi. You'll pry notice a nice bump with oil in the cylinder, but I'd also guess after you get it running you'll see an increase too. In my experience if saws sit for any length of time the rings get sticky and you get lowish compression readings. After it runs and gets some fresh gas/oil through it I bet the readings will come up nicely. Leon's site is awesome, I'd grab a parts diagram from there which should assist you with your fuel line! Thanks Rowdy.I've been on Leon's site countless times for IPL's of many different saws.I think the 200 psi on a 925 was for one that was new back in the day.My saw was made at the Terry plant in Canada.I'm trying to figure out if my saw is 77cc,or 82cc.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 11, 2018 19:58:28 GMT -5
I think there is 1/16" difference between the piston on the 77cc and 82cc. I have one as well (for now anyway) I am not sure what cc it is either. I do believe mine has the thin rings too. I have read they used thin rings on some and standard rings on others.
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Post by edju1958 on Oct 12, 2018 8:16:25 GMT -5
John,I do remember taking the muffler off mine to inspect the cylinder.There was no scoring on the cylinder walls or the piston,I also remember seeing the rings & noting that they weren't thin.I did say that mine was made at the Terry plant in Canada.I'm wondering if the 82cc saws were made there,& the 77cc saws were made in Port Chester plant?I suppose it's anyone's guess.I do know from previous discussions that there was a problem with the 82cc saws overheating,that's why Homelite decided to drop the saw down 5 cc's to 77.It could also be that the older saws were 82cc's & the later ones were 77cc's.(that sounds more logical)In any event,I'm looking forward to getting my 925 operational. Ed
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Post by undee70ss on Oct 12, 2018 9:43:02 GMT -5
They were all 82cc up till the late 1980’s.
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Post by undee70ss on Oct 12, 2018 9:45:37 GMT -5
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Post by edju1958 on Oct 12, 2018 18:00:17 GMT -5
Thanks for clearing that up Greg.I just finished prepping the 925 for the new line.The old grommet is out & the area cleaned up.I think I'll need to take some 200 grit sandpaper to the metal line to get that sticky tar-like crud off.I thought that I'd get the new line kit today,but that wasn't the case,maybe tomorrow.There's something else I noticed about the saw - the post for the air filter cover is out of alignment.Somehow it got twisted & neither the filter,or the cover lines up properly.I'll take the stud off & try to bend it back where it belongs.If that doesn't work,then I'll be needing a new one.It could explain why there was no AF cover when I got the saw,the filter was there,but no cover or nut.These are the #'s on the saw:T8065,10415. Ed
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Post by onlyhomelites on Oct 12, 2018 22:05:16 GMT -5
Damn, that package is taking it's sweet time! Looks like it scheduled for tomorrow though.
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Post by edju1958 on Oct 13, 2018 9:26:15 GMT -5
I've gotten parts from you before Leon in as little as 3 days.Looks like this time the P.O.is giving the package the scenic route.Lol When I worked for the P.O.it was always the carrier's fault.People failed to realize what was involved with the automated process.I've gotten lettersd that were caught in sorting machines that were torn to shreds.The P.O.put them in a plastic bag with a letter saying it was"found"in their sorting machines.Like there were nasty elves who came in the wee hrs.& did it on their own. Ed
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Post by edju1958 on Oct 13, 2018 12:52:21 GMT -5
Hey whatdaya know,I got the fuel line kit in the mail just a few min.ago.Now that I've decided on doing something else while waiting for it to get here.I'm working on cleaning & setting points on an SEZ that didn't have any spark.The saw has awesome compression.I must've used the carb for it on another saw.I don't foresee the points taking all day,so I'll probably get to the fuel line a bit later. Ed
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Post by edju1958 on Oct 13, 2018 18:14:23 GMT -5
OK,what's the procedure for putting the line in the tank?I tried for 20 min.to get the grommet in the tank when the line is in it.Should I put the grommet in first & then try to fish the line through it? Ed
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Post by ettrick on Oct 13, 2018 20:48:20 GMT -5
The procedure i used was. Remove clutch cover, remove metal fuel line screw, remove air filter cover and filter, Install grommet from outside, push line through into tank and fish up out the gas filler opening, install filter and push down into tank, i used duck bill plier and lubed line then worked it onto carburetor, then cut to length pushed onto metal fuel line, then pushed on the end from fuel tank, then pushed metal line with the soft fuel line installed into grommet on tank for tight fit, and installed screw to hold metal tube to housing. I used appropriate sealant on carburetor housing so dust could not enter around tube connecting to the carburetor. Dan
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Post by edju1958 on Oct 14, 2018 10:34:41 GMT -5
I don't know if this is critical or not,but I don't have a duck bill pliers,I never even heard of them.I'm sure that with a bunch of cussing I can eventually get the line in the tank.The line going to the carb is still good,so I'm not replacing that one.I'm a firm believer in"if it ain't broke,don't fix it". Ed
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Post by ettrick on Oct 14, 2018 16:58:38 GMT -5
The line is cut at a steep angle from leon so it fits through grommet easy on tank side. I used a sharp spring hook to grab in tank and then a narrow needle nose pliers to pull up out of fuel opening to put fuel pickup on end of hose after cutting end straight, then push down into tank. Dan
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Post by onlyhomelites on Oct 14, 2018 19:29:04 GMT -5
That's exactly how I recommend installing them! The other "trick" is to feed a small diameter stiff wire through the grommet and out the filler neck. You can pierce the hose at the slant cut tip and pull it through, with generous lube on the hose of course!
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Post by edju1958 on Oct 18, 2018 12:16:50 GMT -5
I finally got the fuel line through the grommet & in the tank with a fuel filter on.I couldn't get the line to fit through the grommet where the metal line goes into the fuel line.The bulge of the two lines together is too much for that little grommet.The clamp that holds the steel line in place was difficult to attach to the steel line as well,but it's holding it in place.I haven't tried to fire it up yet,I've gotta wait till my son gets home from work to pull it over for me.When I have a saw of that size with that much compression,if I pull it over I'll end up with a massive headache.I've got neck issues.
Ed
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