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Post by Clasec on Sept 6, 2018 12:23:29 GMT -5
I cant figure out why that jug is on that saw, it would seem much easier to find a SXL-925 jug than a 923 jug, unless sit was a old one found on a repair shop shelf. I don't care for Frankensaws, I guess if you built them yourself and knew what they were it would be different, but we have seen quite a few saws someone cobbled together and often times it is a detriment to reaping them. Whoever did the conversion did it the right way. It has the correct thick ring piston and they installed the correct plug in place of the decompression valve. Have seen a lot of these conversions with the valves still in and they don't fit well with the 925 downdraft exhaust. . Wish I could find some of those plugs.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Sept 6, 2018 12:29:35 GMT -5
I cant figure out why that jug is on that saw, it would seem much easier to find a SXL-925 jug than a 923 jug, unless sit was a old one found on a repair shop shelf. I don't care for Frankensaws, I guess if you built them yourself and knew what they were it would be different, but we have seen quite a few saws someone cobbled together and often times it is a detriment to reaping them. Whoever did the conversion did it the right way. It has the correct thick ring piston and they installed the correct plug in place of the decompression valve. Have seen a lot of these conversions with the valves still in and they don't fit well with the 925 downdraft exhaust. . Wish I could find some of those plugs. Why wouldn't the correct jug be used?
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Post by Clasec on Sept 6, 2018 12:32:46 GMT -5
Whoever did the conversion did it the right way. It has the correct thick ring piston and they installed the correct plug in place of the decompression valve. Have seen a lot of these conversions with the valves still in and they don't fit well with the 925 downdraft exhaust. . Wish I could find some of those plugs. Why wouldn't the correct jug be used? May have been a service replacement kit sold to fit several 900 series saws and probably 700 and 800's also.
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capoman
Collector wannabe
Posts: 12
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Post by capoman on Sept 6, 2018 12:42:11 GMT -5
It looks like the saw is missing a couple bolts on the ignition. You will want to make sure the rotor [flywheel] does not contact the steel part [core] as this will make it hard to pull also. Yea i dint put them back yet I took them out to clean that dirt it was on the parts By the way the rotor dosent touch that piece becaus when i took off the spark plug it turn smoothly So what you think guys ? The problem in the cylender and piston or what
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Post by Clasec on Sept 6, 2018 12:47:04 GMT -5
I would try removing the carbon from the piston top and see how that helps.
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Post by ettrick on Sept 6, 2018 14:30:31 GMT -5
This makes me wonder about an old post somewhere, that discusses the reason homelite downsized the cylinder in later sxl-925's. It talked about it being equal to a 922 or 923. How can you tell what jug is on a 925 by visual? And was there any bulletin on this? About over heating issues i think. Dan
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Post by rowdy235 on Sept 6, 2018 18:41:04 GMT -5
There is some carbon buildup, and removing that would definitely help. How hard is it to pull over? Does it start at all?
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Post by Clasec on Sept 6, 2018 19:23:42 GMT -5
This makes me wonder about an old post somewhere, that discusses the reason homelite downsized the cylinder in later sxl-925's. It talked about it being equal to a 922 or 923. How can you tell what jug is on a 925 by visual? And was there any bulletin on this? About over heating issues i think. Dan I had read about the overheating issue also. All 923's were originally 82cc. Can't speak as to the 922. The first 925's were 82cc and had the oval exhaust port and were 2 1/16 bore. The downsized engine is 77cc and probably square port. The only way to tell the cc's is to remove the muffler and measure the bore. Homelite made 923 cylinders with the square exhaust [stock] and oval [replacement] exhaust ports but they both would have a decompression valve. A-69674 by CLASEC, on Flickr
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Post by ettrick on Sept 7, 2018 7:35:40 GMT -5
This picture is a 923 then because of the decompression valve? The 925 had spark retard so no decompression needed from what i read. Dan
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Post by Clasec on Sept 7, 2018 9:04:55 GMT -5
This picture is a 923 then because of the decompression valve? The 925 had spark retard so no decompression needed from what i read. Dan Correct, The cylinder pictured is of a later 923 replacement.
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capoman
Collector wannabe
Posts: 12
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Post by capoman on Sept 9, 2018 15:17:10 GMT -5
Hello guys well im trying to disassembly the chain saw but i cant reach the cylinder Iv open all screws but i dont what it stuck I dont want to to open it by pressure Afraid to brok somthing Dose anyone of you have a video or pics of how to disassembly it ,??
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Post by 1975 Super XL on Sept 9, 2018 16:54:50 GMT -5
Most of the screws you have removed hold the fuel tank halves together. If you want to take the fuel tank apart, there are some more screws under the flywheel holding it together, but I don't think it's necessary to take the tank apart to get to the cylinder. I have never worked on a Super XL 925, but it looks like to access the cylinder you will need to remove the rear handle/air box assembly. The upper part of the handle is attached to the crankcase with 4 screws, and the bottom of the handle is attached to the fuel tank with another screw. Before removing the handle you will probably need to remove the carburetor and disconnect the oil lines.
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capoman
Collector wannabe
Posts: 12
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Post by capoman on Sept 10, 2018 15:29:09 GMT -5
Most of the screws you have removed hold the fuel tank halves together. If you want to take the fuel tank apart, there are some more screws under the flywheel holding it together, but I don't think it's necessary to take the tank apart to get to the cylinder. I have never worked on a Super XL 925, but it looks like to access the cylinder you will need to remove the rear handle/air box assembly. The upper part of the handle is attached to the crankcase with 4 screws, and the bottom of the handle is attached to the fuel tank with another screw. Before removing the handle you will probably need to remove the carburetor and disconnect the oil lines. Thank you But iv followed the part where there is the flywheel is not attached to thw handle where you find the start switch and the acceleratore I dont know how to take off that flywhell Iv took off the bolt that foimd in the midle of the flywheele but its stucked i dont know how to take it off Im afraid to broke it
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Post by 1975 Super XL on Sept 10, 2018 16:13:21 GMT -5
The flywheel is pressed onto the crankshaft, and there are a few ways to remove it:
The best and factory recommended method is to use a Homelite flywheel puller, attached to the starter pawl studs using the flywheel screen nuts. But an automotive balancer puller will work if it is small enough. Remove the starter pawl studs and thread the screws into the flywheel. If you do not have any screws that fit the flywheel, the screws from the starter cover may fit.
If you do not have a puller, another way to remove the flywheel is to thread the flywheel nut on until it's flush with the end of the crankshaft. Then have someone hold the saw up by the flywheel while you use a piece of brass and a hammer to tap the crankshaft.
If the crankshaft has end play (the crankshaft slides inside the crankcase slightly), you can place a small prybar or large screwdriver under the flywheel and apply pressure to it while tapping the crankshaft, again with a piece of brass and the nut flush with the end. If you use this method make sure not to stick the prying tool in too far and rotate the flywheel 180 degrees after every few hits to apply force evenly across the flywheel.
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Post by rowdy235 on Sept 10, 2018 18:00:49 GMT -5
1975 SXL has it right, I've never had much luck with the prying or hammering method, but a puller makes quick work of most flywheels.
Sounds like you are on your way, good luck!
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Post by blythkd on Dec 8, 2018 20:02:02 GMT -5
Most of the screws you have removed hold the fuel tank halves together. If you want to take the fuel tank apart, there are some more screws under the flywheel holding it together, but I don't think it's necessary to take the tank apart to get to the cylinder. I have never worked on a Super XL 925, but it looks like to access the cylinder you will need to remove the rear handle/air box assembly. The upper part of the handle is attached to the crankcase with 4 screws, and the bottom of the handle is attached to the fuel tank with another screw. Before removing the handle you will probably need to remove the carburetor and disconnect the oil lines. Thank you But iv followed the part where there is the flywheel is not attached to thw handle where you find the start switch and the acceleratore I dont know how to take off that flywhell Iv took off the bolt that foimd in the midle of the flywheele but its stucked i dont know how to take it off Im afraid to broke it Just wondering if you're still following this thread and if the saw problem was ever solved. I have a soft spot for 925's and hate to see what appears to be a pretty good 925 bite the dust.
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Post by 5terrysupersaws on Dec 8, 2018 21:15:14 GMT -5
Thank you But iv followed the part where there is the flywheel is not attached to thw handle where you find the start switch and the acceleratore I dont know how to take off that flywhell Iv took off the bolt that foimd in the midle of the flywheele but its stucked i dont know how to take it off Im afraid to broke it Just wondering if you're still following this thread and if the saw problem was ever solved. I have a soft spot for 925's and hate to see what appears to be a pretty good 925 bite the dust. capoman hasn't been online for a couple months, not sure if he's made any progress. I'd like to hear about your SXL-925's blythkd, I'm looking for UT numbers and Serial numbers of any TERRY saws to complete a project ( Homelite-Terry UT MODEL SN ) that I have going...Thanks !
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