kodak
Dumpster Diver
Posts: 21
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Post by kodak on Aug 14, 2018 21:02:21 GMT -5
Hey guys! Got into some trouble on Craigslist and found me some old Homelites in need of some dire resto. On my super ez, I had to drill out and extract one of the three flat cap screws behind the flywheel. I’m sure I’m not the first. What’s my best course of action to repair this? Drill out larger and if so what thread size and where do I get such a unique flat screw? Pics will come later of my three saws over in the XL auto thread where I’m nervous about how expensive restoring these guys might get. $30 for a XL auto piston?! Ouch. Maybe she stays a non runner.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Aug 14, 2018 21:29:06 GMT -5
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Post by sweepleader on Aug 15, 2018 6:36:05 GMT -5
Helicoil is the way to go repairing threads. Only go bigger in the case that the hole is WAY oversize. That has been rare in my experience. Even if a hole has already been drilled oversize by a previous "repairman", it can usually be brought back to correct with a Helicoil or similar insert.
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Post by onlyhomelites on Aug 15, 2018 21:35:48 GMT -5
Couldn't agree more with Dan...chasing thread sizes up is not the way to go if you can avoid it. Too much metal ends up removed and the part gets weaker.
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kodak
Dumpster Diver
Posts: 21
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Post by kodak on Aug 19, 2018 19:50:04 GMT -5
Ahh worse turns to worst. Drill through the crank housing. So now I’m in need of a bottom end. If any one has a spare let me know!
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Post by sweepleader on Aug 19, 2018 20:09:07 GMT -5
I don't think that would be deal breaker. If you Helicoil the hole, without dropping a lot of stuff into the crankcase, I think it would seal up well enough. You would absolutely have to keep the little tang on the end of the Helicoil out of the engine, it would certainly do damage to moving parts. A few small mag chips would likely not hurt anything. Of course the real way to do it would be to tear down the engine so you could be sure of getting all the debris from the repair out. Put some sealer around the screw when you replace it.
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kodak
Dumpster Diver
Posts: 21
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Post by kodak on Aug 19, 2018 20:23:14 GMT -5
I’m considering this. Clean out chips and degrease drive case. Tape hole and carefully apply JB weld in hole 1-2mm deep. Then use loctite thread sealer on the bolt. imgur.com/a/7dRI0BC |
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Post by jerseyhighlander on Aug 20, 2018 1:38:32 GMT -5
I wouldn't put JB Weld in there. Especially only a mm or two, could work loose and get into the crank & bearings, even up into the cylinder & piston. I think the method Sweepleader suggest would be just fine, the insert & bolt will seal well enough. Loctite has some good, thicker formulas that should help clinch it.
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Post by sweepleader on Aug 20, 2018 7:19:23 GMT -5
I am assuming that picture is your case and you have the engine apart already.
At this point, I would clean things up properly, Helicoil the hole and put it back together. No JB. Sealer around the screw, under the head and mating surfaces. Not much, just a dab. No problems. Never know anything was ever wrong.
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kodak
Dumpster Diver
Posts: 21
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Post by kodak on Aug 20, 2018 12:13:05 GMT -5
Yes I took this saw complete apart. Wanting to do a resto on it and get my feet wet in rebuilding a chainsaw. I’ve done larger engine stuff, my 80’s Suzuki bike, but this is my first endeavor in a smaller engine to this extent. It’s pretty fun. Alright no JB weld there!
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