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Post by Deleted on Apr 25, 2018 15:46:37 GMT -5
So I found a nice little XL-102 automatic for sale on facebook marketplace. I call the guy and we talk, it come with a extra carb and starter for it 16" bar and new chain. He said he had it running last year, but couldn't keep it running. I receive the saw today, two large holes in the side, top of the box smashed to half its size, no bar inside the box. It gets worse. The handle is broken the screw at the bottom is broken off in the case. Oh it gets much worse. I pull on the rope and no compression. I put a compression tester on it and pull six time, 30psi. That can't be right, I repeat 4 more times, 30psi. I pull the muffler and find a 1/8 wide x approx 1/64" deep score down the opposite side of the cylinder, it obviously sucked a screw or piece of metal down the carb throat. When or how it got passed the reeds is unknown since the guy said it was running after he rebuilt the carb. The cylinder part number 64405-1 is unavailable as far as I can see, it appears to be exclusive to the XL-102 Automatic. If I cant remove the broken screw the fuel tank cover is also unavailable and seems to also be exclusive to the saw.
The guy was a stand up guy, he refunded me all 124.00. I sent him back 24.00 and kept the saw, he can file a claim against the post office for 50.00 for the insurance included on 2 day shipping, that makes him whole as well.
I believe Leon will have my cylinder and I'll find either the rings or piston and ring kit, all is not lost and I look forard to repairing and restoring this really hard to find saw, I was really devastated when I received the saw, but I'm feeling much better about it now.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 25, 2018 17:40:19 GMT -5
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Post by 5terrysupersaws on Apr 25, 2018 18:57:44 GMT -5
NOS cylinder 64405 available at Leons for the XL-102 .,also 64405-2 (superseded by A-69723)
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Post by Deleted on Apr 25, 2018 19:36:01 GMT -5
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Post by sweepleader on Apr 25, 2018 19:49:39 GMT -5
That broken bolt will likely back out with a left handed drill bit.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 25, 2018 19:58:12 GMT -5
That broken bolt will likely back out with a left handed drill bit. I'm guessing I need a left handed drill about half the diameter of the screw? |
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Post by jerseyhighlander on Apr 25, 2018 20:55:15 GMT -5
That broken bolt will likely back out with a left handed drill bit. I'm guessing I need a left handed drill about half the diameter of the screw? I usually go about 2/3 or more the size of the screw/bolt. The bigger the drill bit, the better chance of it grabbing and turning the broken screw instead of just drilling into it. If it feels like it might run off to one side, drill a pilot with a smaller bit but just a 1/16" or so, just to keep it centered. |
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Post by Deleted on Apr 25, 2018 21:04:57 GMT -5
I'm guessing I need a left handed drill about half the diameter of the screw? I usually go about 2/3 or more the size of the screw/bolt. The bigger the drill bit, the better chance of it grabbing and turning the broken screw instead of just drilling into it. If it feels like it might run off to one side, drill a pilot with a smaller bit but just a 1/16" or so, just to keep it centered. Thanks TJ, I guess I've been lucky, in all the tractors I've had never had a bolt broken off |
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Post by tjthechainsawmech on Apr 25, 2018 23:51:47 GMT -5
HEAT that sucker up red hot and then use a drill bit if it doesn't back out the first way. Had awesome luck with that.
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Post by onlyhomelites on Apr 25, 2018 23:54:22 GMT -5
Well I'm glad to hear the transaction was made right for you...now comes the fun part of reassembling the saw!
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Post by sweepleader on Apr 26, 2018 7:28:28 GMT -5
I would start with a small drill and try to get it centered. Then go to a bigger drill that I could angle at first to further center the hole. Once it is centered, I would straighten up and push on through. The first small drill can be right handed, any others would be left handed. If it got to the point where there was going to be little left of the broken part with the next drill, I would try an easy out. Usually they seem to come out with a left hand bit when the hole is about 1/2 or 2/3 the sized of the threads. If the center is drilled out of the bolt, it seems there is more chance of the left drill catching and pulling out the broken part. There is more of the drilling force on the outer cutting fluke and less on the center drill point which applies very little torque to the broken part.
Heating works well in steel but in an aluminum part like this it can be tricky. If you heat the surrounding aluminum, I would not suggest going over about where the paint starts to go away. You can wind up with damage to the casting pretty easily.
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Post by 1108murphysboro on May 16, 2018 21:13:02 GMT -5
Make sure the case is not made of magnesium before you touch it with heat. You can use vinegar. Scratch it somewhere hidden, to show clean metal. Put a drop of vinegar on it and watch what it does. If it starts to bubble, DO NOT HEAT IT. Aluminum won't bubble, magnesium will. If it is magnesium,and you heat it, and it does catch on fire, DO NOT USE WATER. Magnesium burns hot enough to split water into its base elements, making the fire worse. If it is aluminum, heat it up, carefully. Sorry to be so bold, if you will, but I've seen personally what happens when people don't know the difference and break out the torch first... Here's a link that should be pretty accurate. www.acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/ed1d619968136da688256af40002b8f7/e4e8180882bb7aea882570e70011468c?OpenDocument |
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Post by Deleted on May 16, 2018 22:58:06 GMT -5
Make sure the case is not made of magnesium before you touch it with heat. You can use vinegar. Scratch it somewhere hidden, to show clean metal. Put a drop of vinegar on it and watch what it does. If it starts to bubble, DO NOT HEAT IT. Aluminum won't bubble, magnesium will. If it is magnesium,and you heat it, and it does catch on fire, DO NOT USE WATER. Magnesium burns hot enough to split water into its base elements, making the fire worse. If it is aluminum, heat it up, carefully. Sorry to be so bold, if you will, but I've seen personally what happens when people don't know the difference and break out the torch first... Here's a link that should be pretty accurate. www.acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/ed1d619968136da688256af40002b8f7/e4e8180882bb7aea882570e70011468c?OpenDocumentI believe almost all the old metal Homelites are magnesium. I never use heat to remove anything. I was able to sharpen a large nail and use a hammer to tap it counterclockwise, after getting a toehold on the screw the nail bit in and started turning. I use acetone/ATF 50/50 to loosen things up, works like a charm |
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