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Post by Deleted on Apr 6, 2018 19:54:51 GMT -5
I'm looking at a Homelite bar with this info on it:16/40 J1 05 A8.I know that 46/40 stands for in./cm.,but the rest is all Greek to me.
This post was made with all due respect to members involved.
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Post by undee70ss on Apr 7, 2018 16:15:49 GMT -5
It's kind of greek to me to, have any pics?
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Post by Deleted on Apr 7, 2018 17:22:20 GMT -5
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Post by undee70ss on Apr 7, 2018 18:29:53 GMT -5
That has to be a late 1990, 2000+ made bar. It looks like the D196 mount, that fits 360, SXL etc.... As far as I know, they were all 3/8 pitch, .050 gauge, they never made a .325 pitch in that mount.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 7, 2018 18:43:24 GMT -5
Thanks Greg! I figure I can't really go wrong with the price & I don't care if it's got a scratch on it.I'll be putting it on a saw to cut wood anyway.
This post wass made with all due respect to the members involved.
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Post by fossil on Apr 7, 2018 20:02:11 GMT -5
Laminated bar, DO96 type mount for most of the older Homelites. You can't go wrong at that price.
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Post by tjthechainsawmech on Apr 7, 2018 20:20:34 GMT -5
I was gonna say 3/8 to.
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will
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Post by will on Apr 8, 2018 8:11:56 GMT -5
So if a bar is marked .375 is it a 3/8" pitch or a 3/8" Low Profile?
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Post by Deleted on Apr 8, 2018 12:05:38 GMT -5
Yes.In order to get a metric rerading from fractions,just take the bottom number & divide it into the top number.You say that 8 doesn't go into 3?Yes,that's why it's got the decimal point first - .375.This was seventh grade math for me back in '71.Lol Some people called it division,I refer to it as"gozintas".That's because one number goes into another.A little math humor.
This post was made with all due respect to all members involved.
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will
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Post by will on Apr 8, 2018 15:56:19 GMT -5
I did know that 3/8" was .375. I was really wondering if it was 3/8" or 3/8" low profile, or if there was a difference in the bars, I know there is a difference on the 3/8" and 3/8" LP chains.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 8, 2018 17:29:33 GMT -5
It doesn't really matter to me if it's 8/8 or 3/8 LP.I'll run full chisel too,it doesn't matter.There are people who are afraid of full chisel because of the kickback factor.I look at it this way - if there a chain brake on the saw,what does it matter if the saw wants to kickback?I've been cutting wood for over 45 yrs.& I think by this time I pretty much know what I'm doing plus what the saw can do as well.I even have saws with no chain brake - it was optional way back when.If anyone cuts wood & uses their head & doesn't do stupid stuff,then they'll be good to go.Did I mention that for the past 27 yrs.I've been legally blind?
This post was made with all due respect to the members involved.
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Post by undee70ss on Apr 8, 2018 18:03:21 GMT -5
I did know that 3/8" was .375. I was really wondering if it was 3/8" or 3/8" low profile, or if there was a difference in the bars, I know there is a difference on the 3/8" and 3/8" LP chains. With a sprocket nose, yes there is. 3/8 lo pro is not really a true 3/8 pitch, like regular 3/8. With a hard nose bar, you can use any pitch you want, just use correct gauge. |
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will
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Post by will on Apr 8, 2018 22:50:04 GMT -5
I did know that 3/8" was .375. I was really wondering if it was 3/8" or 3/8" low profile, or if there was a difference in the bars, I know there is a difference on the 3/8" and 3/8" LP chains. With a sprocket nose, yes there is. 3/8 lo pro is not really a true 3/8 pitch, like regular 3/8. With a hard nose bar, you can use any pitch you want, just use correct gauge. That was what I needed to know. I'm not sure how you would know if the a late model Homelite sprocket bar is 3/8" or 3/8" LP since I've never seen any literature on what the numbers on the newer bars mean. I see lots of newer numbered bars on eBay since they sold the Super XL-925 and Super XL into the late 80s or longer, some seem to be thinner for top to bottom and I would be nervous if I had to start making chain or finding chain with less than common number of drive links. I guess the variables in buying these newer bars presents a problem to some guys, me included. It seems there are plenty of Oregon D091 and D196 bars around as well as Carlton compatible bars, so I'm not sure I would even be doing myself a favor in buying a newer Homelite bar over an Oregon or Carlton. |
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Post by undee70ss on Apr 9, 2018 3:13:27 GMT -5
That was what I needed to know. I'm not sure how you would know if the a late model Homelite sprocket bar is 3/8" or 3/8" LP since I've never seen any literature on what the numbers on the newer bars mean. I see lots of newer numbered bars on eBay since they sold the Super XL-925 and Super XL into the late 80s or longer, . They were both sold well into the 1990’s. I have never seen any bars in the D196 mount take a 3/8 lo pro chain. |
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Post by undee70ss on Apr 9, 2018 3:26:28 GMT -5
That has to be a late 1990, 2000+ made bar. It looks like the D196 mount, that fits 360, SXL etc.... As far as I know, they were all 3/8 pitch, .050 gauge, they never made a .325 pitch in that mount. I checked my literature, that bar must have been made in the year 2000 or later as in 1999, they were still using the old numbering system. There was a few made in .325 pitch. The sprocket can be changed on these although not as easy as the SP bars. |
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will
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Post by will on Apr 9, 2018 5:26:50 GMT -5
That has to be a late 1990, 2000+ made bar. It looks like the D196 mount, that fits 360, SXL etc.... As far as I know, they were all 3/8 pitch, .050 gauge, they never made a .325 pitch in that mount. I checked my literature, that bar must have been made in the year 2000 or later as in 1999, they were still using the old numbering system. There was a few made in .325 pitch. The sprocket can be changed on these although not as easy as the SP bars. Thank you very much for both posts. That makes sense that the .325 bars would have a different mount pattern because the .325 applicable saws would have .325 designed mount pad |
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Post by stillsawing on Apr 9, 2018 8:19:05 GMT -5
.375 lo pro is a 3/8 pitch, however there's a difference above and below the rivets. The important thing is to make sure the drive tangs match your sprocket tipped bar. The lo pro drive tang is shaped different than standard 3/8, see what the saw chain manufacturers have said about matching up bars. Otherwise a .050 gauge hard nosed would be a simple solution.
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Post by rarefish383 on Apr 10, 2018 17:29:53 GMT -5
It doesn't really matter to me if it's 8/8 or 3/8 LP.I'll run full chisel too,it doesn't matter.There are people who are afraid of full chisel because of the kickback factor.I look at it this way - if there a chain brake on the saw,what does it matter if the saw wants to kickback?I've been cutting wood for over 45 yrs.& I think by this time I pretty much know what I'm doing plus what the saw can do as well.I even have saws with no chain brake - it was optional way back when.If anyone cuts wood & uses their head & doesn't do stupid stuff,then they'll be good to go.Did I mention that for the past 27 yrs.I've been legally blind? This post was made with all due respect to the members involved. It wasn't till I got my two Stihls that I even owned a saw with a chain brake. I do know that back in the 70's we were doing a big lot job, and I had one of the Super 1050's with a 36" bar. We were cutting big Poplar logs into saw logs and firewood. The tip of my saw hit a log on the far side and shot back and bit 3 fingers on my left had. Those three fingers start to turn yellow below about 40 degrees and don't work as good as the others, Joe. |
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Post by jerseyhighlander on Apr 10, 2018 18:51:25 GMT -5
I wouldn't count on the chain brake to keep you from getting bit. Sure it's not a bad thing to have but it doesn't have a magic shield attached to it. If your forward arm isn't locked at the elbow, it will just bend your arm back at you, maybe hit the brake, maybe not.
A Farm we get chicken from raises them free range out in the woods, has lots of acres and went in one day to find he had his face redecorated. Was out cutting with a modern Stihl saw and had it kick back. Buried the nose of the bar in his face, just to the side of his nose, and right up to the bottom of his eye socket.
I worked as a professional cabinetmaker for decades. One day sweeping up my shop, I looked at the table saw I'd spent thousands of hours on, thought to myself, "I'm doing pretty good, 15 years running saws daily and I've never been bit". Cut off my left thumb 4 hours later being stupid at the end of a 16 hour day.
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Post by rarefish383 on Apr 10, 2018 19:34:04 GMT -5
I wouldn't count on the chain brake to keep you from getting bit. Sure it's not a bad thing to have but it doesn't have a magic shield attached to it. If your forward arm isn't locked at the elbow, it will just bend your arm back at you, maybe hit the brake, maybe not. A Farm we get chicken from raises them free range out in the woods, has lots of acres and went in one day to find he had his face redecorated. Was out cutting with a modern Stihl saw and had it kick back. Buried the nose of the bar in his face, just to the side of his nose, and right up to the bottom of his eye socket. I worked as a professional cabinetmaker for decades. One day sweeping up my shop, I looked at the table saw I'd spent thousands of hours on, thought to myself, "I'm doing pretty good, 15 years running saws daily and I've never been bit". Cut off my left thumb 4 hours later being stupid at the end of a 16 hour day. I kind of wish you hadn't shared that story. I'm just getting into woodworking and everything in my shop scares me, except my DeWalt nut drivers I use for pre drilling and screwing things together. But I guess that's no worse than me sharing about my fingers, and I can show you the scar on my left leg where I picked it up stepping over a log and stuck it right into a fast idling Super EZ, Joe. |
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