How to Get Flywheel Off Blue EZ?

[Deleted]

Anybody got any ideas that work when it comes to getting recessed flywheels off like this one?Since the pic was taken I've already broken off one fin,now U must take off another at 180 degrees opposite so it's balanced.

20180404_174350 by edju1958, on Flickr

[walterg]

I haven't pulled mine, but I would assume you remove the pawls, and use a puller using those holes.

[fossil]

Apr 4, 2018 17:39:31 GMT -5 edju1958 said:

Anybody got any ideas that work when it comes to getting recessed flywheels off like this one?Since the pic was taken I've already broken off one fin,now U must take off another at 180 degrees opposite so it's balanced.

20180404_174350 by edju1958, on Flickr

I wouldn't break another fin off. The amount of weight that fin has won't make any difference. I've seen lots with  fin broken off that have been running for years.

That aside, single cylinder engines by their nature vibrate so badly a fin won't mean anything

I generally use a cheap steering wheel puller with the appropriate bolts in the starter dog holes and washers. 

If you can't do that pull the coil off and using a hardwood dowel and hammer, give the flywheel a few good smacks from the rear on the flywheel counter weight opposite the magnets.
Watch you don't hit a fin.

[onlyhomelites]

Yep, as already noted, a plate style puller that threads into the pawl holes is your best bet. I am fortunate enough to have a Homelite tool that threads to the pawl studs, eliminating the need to remove them. My Homelite tool is like this one, but mine has all four nuts: www.ebay.com/itm/HOMELITE-A24290-puller-tool-flywheel-rotor-Super-XL-ao-XL-12-SEZao-35SL-360-350/372252166488?hash=item56abf54958:g:HmwAAOSwgDRZcki0

[Deleted]

I did take the pawls out,I didn't want to break those too.I do have a flywheel puller that I used on my XP-1000,I'll just have to find smaller bolts to fit the pawl bolt holes.I sprayed a bit of Blaster on the crank & I put the nut back on flush & hit it with a hardwood board on it & a small hammer - didn't budge.I'll let it sit overnight & most of tomorrow too,I have my two month post surgical check up.I had to go for X-rays today & pain management wanted me to stop in for a pill count & a urine test - I probably failed it because I didn't study.Lol  Anyway,I'm trying to get the flywheel off to take a look at the points because I still have no spark on it after cleaning up & checking the coil.The coil only checked out at 7.02 ohms,which I think is on the low side.Multimeters aren't really good for testing coils,what is really needed is a coil tester because the coil tester will heat up a coil as if it were out in the field actually working,then it gives a true coil reading.
    This post was made with due respect to all members involved.

[rowdy235]

Good luck, I just got done fighting a flywheel myself on the C-91, the puller is probably the best bet for the cost of a couple bolts.

[Deleted]

I'll be out & about tomorrow,so I'll stop at a hardware store & buy the bolts I;ll need.I'll take the pawl stud with me to get the right ones.

[sweepleader]

Be sure to get quality bolts, they are strong and cheezy bolts that size can break pretty easily. I like to use socket head bolts for pulling as they always seem to be good quality.

[onlyhomelites]

That's good advice Dan! I have bent or broken more than my fair share of the cheezy ones.

[Deleted]

I know how to buy bolts.The bolts with the slash marks on the heads are specially hardened bolts.The more slashes,the harder the bolt.Just in case there are guys out there that didn't know that.
    This post was made with all due respect to the members involved.

[walterg]

Apr 4, 2018 20:47:28 GMT -5 edju1958 said:

I know how to buy bolts.The bolts with the slash marks on the heads are specially hardened bolts.The more slashes,the harder the bolt.Just in case there are guys out there that didn't know that.
    This post was made with all due respect to the members involved.

Yes, but Dan was recommending socket head cap screws.
Grade 8 bolts are rated at 150000 psi.
If you have a place that sells the good socket head cap screws. They are rated at 175000 psi. So for smaller bolts on a puller, I'd go with them.
Grade 8 might be fine depending on the bolt size, but Id go with the stronger bolt.
Just a suggestion. My 2 cent worth.

[sweepleader]

We got some grade 5 bolts, with 3 marks on the head, at work in the last year that were breaking as they were torqued. We spent a fair amount of time working on our automated torquing equipment before we found out that Grade 5 as specified was about equal to an ungraded bolt IN CHINA! These bolts came from China, they have their own standard, apparently purposely to deceive the unwary. We could not relate their standards to SAE (inch) or ISO (metric). I refuse to buy hardware made there, just a tidbit to save someone some grief. My local True Value hardware store carries all US made grade 5, 8, and socket heads which as walterg mentioned are the strongest. My local home stores inventories are variable as to the country of origin and I do not buy bolts from any of them.

The socket heads are somehow more ductile than grade 8's, I have bent (on purpose) 1/4-20 socket heads 90 degrees without breaking them. I don't know how the metal guys do that but it is impressive. They will stretch quite a ways, giving warning of overloading, before they break and leave a stub stuck in the hole.

I am pretty sure everyone who posted above knows about bolts, this is posted as general information for those who did not know.

[onlyhomelites]

Apr 5, 2018 6:56:51 GMT -5 sweepleader said:

"My local home stores inventories are variable as to the country of origin and I do not buy bolts from any of them.

I've got a Home Depot a mile away that is really convenient, but I refuse to buy any machine type bolts from there as it is all Chinese made crap. Half the time the thread pitch isn't even quite right and I won't even get into the quality "issues"!

[Deleted]

This is probably one of those posts that could get one terminated but as I’ve said before I’m maintenance supervisor on an automotive frame production line. Guess how many weld nuts and bolts are in an truck/suv frame made in China and Korea. Our automated torque systems use impact sockets. We’ve used standard duty in a few places for clearance and have still twisted the head off of bolts from Korea. I would say we’ve researched the standards on those bolts but nothing on the boxes is written in English. Further research for that falls in Quality and that’s not my department 😎. Ok that was probably way off subject but just thought it reinforced what Dan said

[Deleted]

This is all in line with the other posdt I made on a carburetor,whether to buy a Chinese knockoff,or rebuilt what you already have.(brushcutter's thread)What I don't understand is how are we saving money by buying from overseas because we have to use twice as many to get the same results as U.S.made.Then there are the countless man hrs.involved to try to rectify the broken bolts ,not to mention down time involved.Then there's the safety issue -  suppose you're driving along & hit a pot hole.the bolt was already stressed from being installed,now that nasty pot hole.Now that pot hole has put more stress on the already stressed bolt & POP You could be looking at thousands of dollars of damage just in replacement parts (probably made in China again),not to mention the labor costs involved.
   Now use that same thought on a chainsaw that has a chain revving at thousands of ft.per second.Not a good safety factor.
      This post was made with all due respect to the members involved.

[longpork]

We have a place in Edmonton that has all kinds of fasteners.
They may have a fastener that would thread onto that stud when I make my flyweel puller.
There may be a place closee there that may have something you can use.
yes I am going to pack my saw in there to find the right fitting.