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New C-91
Apr 2, 2018 17:22:16 GMT -5
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Post by rowdy235 on Apr 2, 2018 17:22:16 GMT -5
Thanks guys. Think I'm gonna have to give that aftermarket coil a try unless there are any good NOS or used ones available on here? Looks to me like the coil is "glued" to the core, at least at the bottom, with some kind of yellow material. Same stuff is on the plug wire where it goes into the coil. Thinking it's gonna destroy the end of the wire getting it out I think it only looks like it is glued, they are pressed on and most show a little of that yellow stuff, but if you carefully pry the old one off with a couple small screwdrivers the coil will back off the core, not sure what the yellow stuff is, if its glue or a sealant. Gotcha, that very well could be, I actually thought it was one unit so wasn't trying to remove it lol. Maybe I'm playing devils advocate, but if the coil is not the issue what's left? Condenser? Flywheel? Never seen either of those fail but not to say it's not possible.
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Post by sweepleader on Apr 2, 2018 17:33:24 GMT -5
The wire is ordinary solid copper core plug wire, most auto parts stores have it. Just don't use the carbon center stuff, there is not enough voltage with that.
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Post by repomafia on Apr 2, 2018 18:02:32 GMT -5
Speaker wire speaker wire. Lol
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Post by Deleted on Apr 2, 2018 18:26:46 GMT -5
Condenser could be the culprit too. I’m working with a saw now that has new points, condenser and coil and still has weak spark. Flywheel magnets are good on this saw too. There is a thread here about checking flywheel magnets. I want to say I read something about putting a small hex nut like 1/2” on them and if you can sling it off they are weak but don’t quote me on that. I’ve also read where condensers have been found to go bad sitting on a shelf, I’m sure that takes years or has a lot to do with environment it’s stored in too.
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New C-91
Apr 2, 2018 18:27:31 GMT -5
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Post by rowdy235 on Apr 2, 2018 18:27:31 GMT -5
Haha, I'll check with the parts house see what they have. Looks like the wire is readily available online too.
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New C-91
Apr 2, 2018 18:29:20 GMT -5
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Post by rowdy235 on Apr 2, 2018 18:29:20 GMT -5
Condenser could be the culprit too. I’m working with a saw now that has new points, condenser and coil and still has weak spark. Flywheel magnets are good on this saw too. There is a thread here about checking flywheel magnets. I want to say I read something about putting a small hex nut like 1/2” on them and if you can sling it off they are weak but don’t quote me on that. I’ve also read where condensers have been found to go bad sitting on a shelf, I’m sure that takes years or has a lot to do with environment it’s stored in too. Interesting, well it took quite a bit of force to get my wrench unstuck from the flywheel so magnets are presumably good. I'll have to look into condenser, but thinking needs new coil anyway
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New C-91
Apr 3, 2018 18:07:03 GMT -5
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Post by rowdy235 on Apr 3, 2018 18:07:03 GMT -5
New coil, plug wire, and boot are on the way.
Any opinions on whether to paint it? (The saw that is)
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Post by onlyhomelites on Apr 3, 2018 18:20:50 GMT -5
Any opinions on whether to paint it? (The saw that is) I guess it all comes down to what you want to with the saw. If you plan to run it a lot, I wouldn't. If you want a shelf queen, absolutely! I would paint it, but everybody here knows I'm paint happy! It's a huge investment in time and a decent amount of money to get a nice finish that is fuel & oil resistant. I probably have ~$60 in materials and ~15-18 hours in this C-9 that I restored.
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Post by Clasec on Apr 3, 2018 18:43:28 GMT -5
Nice! Gotta love the green and red.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 3, 2018 18:54:57 GMT -5
Speaker wire speaker wire. Lol Yeah,that'll just make that saw sing.Lol This post was mader with all due respect to the members involved.
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Post by rowdy235 on Apr 4, 2018 19:22:59 GMT -5
Wow, that is one beautiful C-9. I wouldn't mind putting in the time/money, but my saws are not "shelf queens". Its not like I cut cords upon cords of firewood or cut down acres of trees either but all my saws get used somewhat regularly. None of my other saws have been painted/restored but they are cosmetically in better shape as well I'm thinking about giving it a good cleaning and maybe some polishing to see if I can at least get the paint thats on there looking better, and go from there.
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Post by onlyhomelites on Apr 4, 2018 20:09:14 GMT -5
That's a great place to start (and maybe finish)!
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Post by lesorubcheek on Apr 4, 2018 20:23:30 GMT -5
The past few years I've been using Gibbs lubricant on saws. Think it was somebody on AS posted about it, anyway I was very skeptical but decided to get a can and see what it'd do. I mean, it's just high priced WD-40 right? .... Wrong! It really is some amazing stuff. It removes white death, especially if it's light on the surface of magnesium. Now if a part is corroded badly, it won't perform a miracle, but it leaves a nicer finish than anything else I ever tried. Supposed to leave a protective layer too to prevent future corrosion. You can also apply paint over it if you wanna do so. And, no, I don't own any stock in the company or anything like that. lol.
Dan
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New C-91
Apr 4, 2018 20:42:35 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by rowdy235 on Apr 4, 2018 20:42:35 GMT -5
The past few years I've been using Gibbs lubricant on saws. Think it was somebody on AS posted about it, anyway I was very skeptical but decided to get a can and see what it'd do. I mean, it's just high priced WD-40 right? .... Wrong! It really is some amazing stuff. It removes white death, especially if it's light on the surface of magnesium. Now if a part is corroded badly, it won't perform a miracle, but it leaves a nicer finish than anything else I ever tried. Supposed to leave a protective layer too to prevent future corrosion. You can also apply paint over it if you wanna do so. And, no, I don't own any stock in the company or anything like that. lol. Dan I'll definitely give that a try! Where did you get it?
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Post by lesorubcheek on Apr 4, 2018 20:51:20 GMT -5
Honestly can't remember where I got that first can that I tried, but after it was used up, I've bought 12 can packs off ebay. Just search for Gibbs lubricant. Think I'm on the third case now. Use it at the farm on tractors along with the woodworking equipment... really anything that's metal that ever gets any sign of oxidation.
Dan
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Post by rowdy235 on Apr 8, 2018 0:10:55 GMT -5
I'll have to put some on order, wasn't able to find any locally. Got new coil, plug wire and plug boot installed tonight. The plug wire I ordered off ebay was a little smaller (diameter wise) than the original which kind of irritated me at first since its the right Part #. However, it seems that the hole in the new coil is a little smaller as well, so it seems to work fine. I put a little bit of sealant around where it goes into the coil just to make sure it doesn't come loose. Like jselden mentioned, I did have to file down the flywheel side of the coil a little bit to get proper clearance. I just bolted up the flywheel and turned over slowly by hand, this showed me where I needed to file. In the picture below you can see the mark made by the flywheel. I'd guess I removed maybe 1/16" if that in that place, so not a big deal, but something to look for if you buy the aftermarket coil. Its kind of frustrating to have to modify a brand new part to work, but not much choice in the matter unfortunately. After screwing around with the boot for far too long and finally getting everything together, I buttoned everything else up, put the plug on the end and the result was a nice blue spark, a site for sore eyes I tell ya. I couldn't resist so I put a little two stroke in the carb and gave it a shot, it lit right off but man is this thing loud! Gonna work on getting it running all the way tomorrow. I also did a good cleanup, although unfortunately the paint is too far gone for polish to help (I tried). I don't think it looks awful, but I may consider repainting it. On an unrelated note, can anybody explain how the heck the recoil functions on this saw? Mine works fine but I just can't wrap my head around how it works. Ignition All Buttoned Up (note line from flywheel on coil) Old Coil (Shot, I'm certain) Where I stand now
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New C-91
Apr 8, 2018 6:58:36 GMT -5
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Post by Deleted on Apr 8, 2018 6:58:36 GMT -5
That is aggravating to have to modify a new part that is supposed to be a direct replacement. I haven’t tried on but I read a post somewhere else where somebody had to. I bought a piston from the same place and had to turn down the inside of the skirt at the bottom because it hit the crankshaft lobes. Ended up not using it in the end. Anyway glad you got it going that far. I’m gonna let somebody else explain the recoil lol mine gave me fits too. I replaced the spring in mine and it works great now. You might take a look at the IPL on Leon’s site, seeing the breakdown may help.
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Post by sweepleader on Apr 8, 2018 7:31:04 GMT -5
I don't know about the recoil either, but I do think the paint looks fine. The decals clearly tell what the saw is, that is a big deal to me. The rest of the saw looks complete and unbroken, with lots of honest wear. My kind of saw. Is there tape holding the recoil handle together? If so I would try to replace that. I might just clean the saw as for a repaint and clear coat the whole thing, even the bar. No blasting or sanding, just like it is. I once saw a 1962 Corvette race car done like that, it was built as a backup for LeMons and never used. 30 years later it was clear coated, right over the spot rust and original paper GM tags on everything underneath. Very cool.
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Post by rowdy235 on Apr 8, 2018 13:25:21 GMT -5
I don't know about the recoil either, but I do think the paint looks fine. The decals clearly tell what the saw is, that is a big deal to me. The rest of the saw looks complete and unbroken, with lots of honest wear. My kind of saw. Is there tape holding the recoil handle together? If so I would try to replace that. I might just clean the saw as for a repaint and clear coat the whole thing, even the bar. No blasting or sanding, just like it is. I once saw a 1962 Corvette race car done like that, it was built as a backup for LeMons and never used. 30 years later it was clear coated, right over the spot rust and original paper GM tags on everything underneath. Very cool. Yeah, I think I am fine with the paint for now, as like I said my saws do get used, so would probably wear the new paint off quickly lol. Shows how unobservant I am, but until you pointed it out I didn't realize there was any tape on the recoil handle, but turns out there is. So I may try to replace that. I also put a little friction tape on the back handle which makes it look a little nicer besides helping the grip out. First thing this morning I checked out the fuel filter which appeared to be brand new. I am thinking somebody redid the fuel system on this saw as everything looks like new. Put some fresh two stroke in it and it fired up within 3 pulls Warmed it up for about 5 minutes and then checked the adjustments, all of which were spot on except I lowered the idle a hair. Saw ran great, and started very easily after that initial start up. Here's a quick teaser video of it running youtu.be/csYkoX1_YV0
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Post by Deleted on Apr 8, 2018 13:30:25 GMT -5
Sounds and looks great to me.
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