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Post by rowdy235 on Apr 1, 2018 17:49:41 GMT -5
Hey guys, look what I picked up today. A little rough cosmetically but seems to be good shape mechanically. Looks as if the carbruetor may have been replaced/rebuilt recently (see second pic) Unfortunately it has no spark, I have to get a puller to get the flywheel off (unless anybody has any other ideas, besides prying on the edge and tapping crank with a hammer, which didn't work). I tried disconnecting kill wire and nothing- so that rules out the switch. Anybody have any idea on what the no spark issue is? I'm hoping its just a dirty connection, or corroded points, but would that cause no spark completely? I'm just hoping doesn't need any new components as I know they're getting hard to find.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 1, 2018 18:04:35 GMT -5
I’m not sure of the similarities but there are new aftermarket coils available on eBay that are for a C-72 if you need one. The points and condenser are also available and are pretty low cost. Outside of that not sure which may be your issue if any. I know on my c-72 my coil wire was in terrible shape so like you say could just be a connection or even just a bad on/off switch
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Post by sweepleader on Apr 1, 2018 18:19:13 GMT -5
Congrats, looks very good.
There is a little "white death" going there, that would lead me to suspect the points. They will corrode with damp storage and not conduct. A points file from an autoparts store will fix them up, it doesn't take much filing, just a couple swipes. Some folks use sandpaper but that can leave behind abrasives that besides being damaging to moving parts, can block the points open. Abrasives are oxides that do not conduct electricity and you are back where you started.
I use TWO levers (screwdrivers), one on each side of the flywheel. Carefully rocking the wheel back and forth while applying pressure on both levers. Somewhere between 3 and a dozen "rockings" will pop the wheel. Leave the nut on the crank so the wheel does not earn its name and fly. Do not poke a screwdriver through the crankcase, which can be fragile. I do not use a hammer.
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Post by rowdy235 on Apr 1, 2018 18:37:33 GMT -5
Thanks guys. I saw the coil was available on ebay, and looks like a electronic chip too, so I'm certain I can get spark back one way or another.
I am thinking corroded points is most likely at this time, the saw seems to be in good shape, but seems like it has been stored outside or at least in a damp environment. I pulled the muffler cover and looked in the cylinder- it looks perfect- all shiny except for a vertical strip on the far side, which I believe is from the ring gap.
I tried the two screwdriver method to no avail- one issue is there is such little room under the flywheel and on the sides it makes it hard to pry. I hit the crank with some PB blaster and may try again here in a bit- but I think I'm gonna need a puller. The fact the flywheel seems stuck would also support the points being corroded as they presumably have not been checked in a very long time.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 1, 2018 19:06:35 GMT -5
I’m not an expert on these by any means lol I just chimed in because it took me about 3 months to get my C-72 running and that was trying a bit of it all. I’ve had luck too with the screwdriver method of removing the flywheel but the first time I pulled the flywheel on my C-72 I had to use a puller. I will say I messed up with the puller and put the two screws in the bolt holes for the cover, they weren’t deep enough and I broke one out before the flywheel popped off. I removed the starter prawls and they were deeper and worked to remove the flywheel. I have a question now though about the C-91. I looked at the IPLs before I said anything about the ignition parts just to verify they were the same and I didn’t see an IPL for the C-91. Is this rare or were they the same as the C-72? I did see one for the geardrive though
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Post by Deleted on Apr 1, 2018 20:39:06 GMT -5
If you think your saw looks rough cosmetically you should've seen the Super XL-12 I picked up a couple of weeks ago.The recoil rope was hanging out,white death all over.I have the same problem with no spark too which I attributed to the points too.It also came with a lot of parts missing - drive case cover,front log spike,bar plates & stud nuts,front handle & handle mount, two recoil cover screws.I found a hardware package on Ebay that had everything except for the handle for $18,I even got some extra stuff too.I originally bought the saw as a parts saw,but it had such good compression & the piston & cylinder were in great shape I figured why not?When I went to inspect the airbox I had to use a channel locks to loosen the nut,& the air filter I had to pry out with a screwdriver.I also had to do the same with a channel locks to get the plug wire off.Then I took sandpaper & wound it around an undersized drill to clean the corrosion out of the plug wire.It's starting to look like a saw now,but I still need a handle bar.What can I use to stop the white death? Your saw is pristine compared to mine.Lol
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Post by rowdy235 on Apr 1, 2018 20:54:33 GMT -5
^ Lol, guess I shouldn't be complaining, I've come across plenty of saws like that as well though! I think the only way to stop the white death would be to remove it and re-coat (eg paint) it, or depending on the area, clean it up as good as possible and put a light coat of oil or WD-40 on it. I'm stil him-hawing as to whether I want to clean this one up and paint it or just leave it as-is.
Anyway tinkered a little more but decided to stop before I broke something and get a puller. I actually noticed one of the little "ears" where the bolts go in for the puller is broken. I'm not too worried since it looks like there's plenty of good thread below to get a grip (threaded in a bolt to verify they were good), but it appears (to me anyway) to be indicative of somebody trying (likely unsuccessfully) to remove the flywheel prior.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 1, 2018 21:16:56 GMT -5
Yeah Rowdy,it does seem that way.Some flywheels can be a real pup to get off & others practically fall off.I think you might have your hands full with this one.As a penetrant try using a 50/50 mix of acetone & atf.You mix it up in an airtight container because the acetone will evaporate.I used a small dishsoap bottle to mix mine in & it's a handy dispenser too.It'll separate over time,but just shake it up every time you use it & you'll be good to go.Good luck on the flywheel.
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Post by tjthechainsawmech on Apr 1, 2018 23:35:54 GMT -5
I screw the flywheel nut on the crankshaft until it's flush with the surface and then wack on it with one of those hard plastic hammers while holding the saw by the flywheel. Takes a few good blows, but I haven't had one get the best of me yet....have missed and hurt my hand a couple times but ya get used to it after awhile. Little heat never hurts either, but wear gloves if yer gonna hold the flywheel after!
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Post by sweepleader on Apr 2, 2018 7:29:56 GMT -5
I would agree with tj, with a stuck one putting some heat on the wheel should loosen it up some. Don't overdo it, the magnets can be damaged by heat.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 2, 2018 9:03:58 GMT -5
I never knew that the magnets could be damaged by heat.I did know that they can be "unmagnetized"by a sharp blow though.Ask Leon about the latter,he'll confirm it,or go to his post about him getting his 8800 finally up & running.
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Post by rowdy235 on Apr 2, 2018 12:53:32 GMT -5
Well I took the easy way out and got a puller. Had to put a LOT of tension on it but it finally popped free.
Points were heavily corroded, filed them and regapped them, but still no spark. Disconnected kill switch just to verify.
Connections all look fine. Coil has a crack in it but not sure if that means for sure its shot or not. Does anybody know of a test with an ohmmeter to verify if the coil is good? And of course, anybody know of a replacement coil at a decent price? I'd be fine with used as long as it was good shape and worked.
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Post by rowdy235 on Apr 2, 2018 13:20:27 GMT -5
Okay, so I found a testing article on the site, I have around 2.3 ohms between the primary and ground (which seems normal), but can't get a reading at all between the secondary (plug wire) and ground. Sound like a bad coil?
EDIT: Went and re-ran all the tests again with the same results, I disconnected all wires from the coil before testing as well. I stabbed one of my leads trough the insulation on the plug wire very close to the coil and have 0 ohms between there and the end of the wire, which means thats good.
So I'm pretty sure the coil is shot at this point, but I have a couple questions about replacement. Looks like the original one is riveted in, do I need to re-rivet it or is there another option? Also I was told the plug wire is supposed to unscrew, but mine looks pretty stuck. Can a replacement wire be purchased as well?
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Post by sweepleader on Apr 2, 2018 15:59:13 GMT -5
The zero ohms across the secondary (plug side) is a bad sign. Given that, I would unscrew the plug lead, you have nothing to lose, and check with the ohm meter from ground to the plug wire spike. I would try that D cell test too I guess. I have not used it yet but it certainly is easy. You do need a good condenser for the test but it does not have to fit the saw. Its down the page a ways at: houseofhomelite.proboards.com/thread/6623/rigged-coil-testerDirect link to the vid: houseofhomelite.proboards.com/thread/5822/magneto-testing-flashlight-battery?page=1&scrollTo=39515I do not have a lot of faith in checking the ohms of a coil unless I have specific manufacturer numbers, I believe there are too many variables to make general statement except for continuity. If there is no continuity, things are grim. The only really certain test is swap in parts from a running saw.
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will
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Post by will on Apr 2, 2018 16:20:40 GMT -5
Okay, so I found a testing article on the site, I have around 2.3 ohms between the primary and ground (which seems normal), but can't get a reading at all between the secondary (plug wire) and ground. Sound like a bad coil? EDIT: Went and re-ran all the tests again with the same results, I disconnected all wires from the coil before testing as well. I stabbed one of my leads trough the insulation on the plug wire very close to the coil and have 0 ohms between there and the end of the wire, which means thats good. So I'm pretty sure the coil is shot at this point, but I have a couple questions about replacement. Looks like the original one is riveted in, do I need to re-rivet it or is there another option? Also I was told the plug wire is supposed to unscrew, but mine looks pretty stuck. Can a replacement wire be purchased as well? The rivets to connect the core housing layers, the coil should slide on and off the core?
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Post by Deleted on Apr 2, 2018 16:25:12 GMT -5
There are some new aftermarket coils on eBay if it has the 55986 coil. I almost bought one myself but found an NOS. The price isn’t bad on them but I read somewhere else where somebody bought one and had to file the outside a bit to get the necessary clearance behind the flywheel but I don’t know what’s to that like I say I found an NOS. It took a while to find it though they don’t come up often. If I ever need another I’m willing to try that aftermarket myself.
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Post by sweepleader on Apr 2, 2018 16:25:17 GMT -5
There is likely a tab that slides into the coil, against the core, and is held in place with a screw on the side away from the flywheel. It might also be bent over, to hold the coil in place.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 2, 2018 16:26:10 GMT -5
And yes the coil should just slide off it’s a press fit kinda might have to tap it.
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Post by rowdy235 on Apr 2, 2018 16:37:19 GMT -5
Thanks guys. Think I'm gonna have to give that aftermarket coil a try unless there are any good NOS or used ones available on here?
Looks to me like the coil is "glued" to the core, at least at the bottom, with some kind of yellow material. Same stuff is on the plug wire where it goes into the coil. Thinking it's gonna destroy the end of the wire getting it out
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will
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Post by will on Apr 2, 2018 17:10:26 GMT -5
Thanks guys. Think I'm gonna have to give that aftermarket coil a try unless there are any good NOS or used ones available on here? Looks to me like the coil is "glued" to the core, at least at the bottom, with some kind of yellow material. Same stuff is on the plug wire where it goes into the coil. Thinking it's gonna destroy the end of the wire getting it out I think it only looks like it is glued, they are pressed on and most show a little of that yellow stuff, but if you carefully pry the old one off with a couple small screwdrivers the coil will back off the core, not sure what the yellow stuff is, if its glue or a sealant.
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