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Post by Deleted on Mar 15, 2018 17:54:46 GMT -5
I got my XL-101 that I bought off the Bay a couple of days ago.I went through my usual checks - take off the muffler & look over the piston & cylinder - all looked good there,no scoring.I went on to check for spark - there was none.I thought to myself"what did I do,buy another 101 wth a bad coil?"I tried a different plug - nothing.Then I took off the recoil cover & made a discovery after a few mins.The wire that goes from the coil to the switch wasn't connected very good to the coil.I checked with my meter to see if the coil was good - yup,reading 7.75 ohms.So a little finagling with that to get a good connection & reset the air gap on the coil & I had beautiful spark.I took it to the garage & put a little fuel into the carb & gave a pull & away it went.Man is that thing loud! It has a muffler like the C series sawes have.Does anyone know if the XL-101 had a quieter version of a muffler?If you're not wearing ear protection,you'd be deaf in no time operating one of those saws.So now I'll take my bar off the other 101 that I've got that has multiple problems.I did think to myself as I was putting oil in the saw"what if this saw has an oil leak too"?But it ddn't leak,thank God.
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Post by fossil on Mar 15, 2018 19:37:26 GMT -5
No, but the 102, 103, 104 did and I'm guessing they will bolt up. Someone with a 101 should know. My XL-76's have the 102 - 104 type and I don't find them too loud unless the baffle is out of it.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 15, 2018 20:23:09 GMT -5
No, but the 102, 103, 104 did and I'm guessing they will bolt up. Someone with a 101 should know. My XL-76's have the 102 - 104 type and I don't find them too loud unless the baffle is out of it. The screwy thiong here is when I go to the IPL for the 101,the 102 & the 103 are grouped together with it.So if I want the quiet muffler then I should probably go to the 104 IPL? In all my excitement I forgot to mention that one of the screws for the recoil cover is broke off in the housing.How do I get that out? |
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Post by fossil on Mar 15, 2018 21:12:16 GMT -5
No, but the 102, 103, 104 did and I'm guessing they will bolt up. Someone with a 101 should know. My XL-76's have the 102 - 104 type and I don't find them too loud unless the baffle is out of it. The screwy thiong here is when I go to the IPL for the 101,the 102 & the 103 are grouped together with it.So if I want the quiet muffler then I should probably go to the 104 IPL? In all my excitement I forgot to mention that one of the screws for the recoil cover is broke off in the housing.How do I get that out? I use a drill and ez outs to get broken screws out. 101  102 - 104 
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Post by Deleted on Mar 15, 2018 21:48:44 GMT -5
The muffler on the blue saw on the left is called a stack muffler,& that sucker is LOUD.IO looked on the Bay for a muffler - $50 & up,not what I want to spend on a muffler.Ear protectors are cheaper than that.
As far as using a drill & easy outs - I doubt that I have an easy out small enough.I'll check in a.m.I'll get a pic on here too.
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Post by sweepleader on Mar 16, 2018 6:57:12 GMT -5
Methods I use to get a small screw out:
I have a TIG welder so that would be my first choice.
Without that, a left hand drill which of course runs "backwards". They can be had from lots of places, auto parts stores, hardware stores (not home depots). Usually they will catch as they drill and the screw "unscrews". The drill should be sized for an easy out in case the drill does not extract the screw.
If the left hand drill does not work, easy out.
If not that, a tap drill size drill will removed the core of the screw and leave some threads. Pick out the threads with a sharp, hard tool.
If that leaves a mess, drill still larger and install a Helicoil or similar. I might skip the tap drill size drilling and go straight to the Helicoil as I am very comfortable with using them.
Only under the direst of circumstances drill an over size hole for a larger screw.
If the drill or easy out breaks, all bets are off. A TIG will get them but if that was available, I would have used it already. Don't break the drill or easy out.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 16, 2018 7:22:39 GMT -5
I have used easy outs before,but on a larger scale.
I'll see what I've got,maybe I don't have small enough.
I had a similar situation with a different saw last summer.I told the saw dealer I was dealing with at the time & he said"Can't you just run the saw with only 3 screws in the recoil?"What an ass!
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Post by onlyhomelites on Mar 16, 2018 14:22:38 GMT -5
That shop stool sure is nice...looks familiar too!
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Post by Deleted on Mar 16, 2018 15:01:31 GMT -5
You'rer not going to believe this - after I got my drill out & the easy outs.I took the recoil cover off & saw that there was just a little hair of the broken screw sticking out of the screw hole (I know,t sounds kinda perverted or kinky)I thought to myself if I could just get a hold of that with my little pen screwdriver I might have a chance to turn it out.I only touched that little hair of metal stcking up & I thought I saw it move.I thought my eyes were playing tricks on me,so I tried it again,& it moved again.I continued this till I was able to get hold of it by hand & out it came.I think I had angels with me today.Lol It's more effort now to put the tools away than it was to get the screw out.
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Post by sweepleader on Mar 16, 2018 19:05:19 GMT -5
Gotta get lucky now and then. If it was not jammed in the threads or rusted in place, it should screw out easily, just like a loose screw. That is when a left handed drill bit works best.
Lucky you!!
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Post by Deleted on Mar 16, 2018 19:44:35 GMT -5
Well my luck ran out there.I decided to taske a look at the fuel filter & it's a good thing I did.Apparently the previous moron....I mean owner decided to use a garden hose as a fuel line.I was wondering why I was having such a tough time getting the fuel line out of the tank.Then I also looked in the airbox where it attaches to the carb - what an idiot! He had it attached to the inlet on the carb & fastened it on with a small wire,most likely wouldn't stay on because it was a GARDEN HOSE! As I looked the saw over I understood why he used a GARDEN HOSE.There were no grommets either going into the airbox,or going into the tank.If the saw ran at all it must've leaked terribly.If a person doesn't know what he's doing to a chainsaw,please leave it alone & get professional help like we do here.  20180316_182218 by edju1958, on Flickr  20180316_182106 by edju1958, on Flickr |
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Post by Deleted on Mar 16, 2018 20:56:59 GMT -5
OK,I've been on the different IPL's for the 101,102,& 103.I found the grommet for the airbox,but when I went on Leon's siite the number of the grommet (64862) refers to a throttle rod grommet for a 540,8800 & some other smaller saws.Also,I can't even find the number for the grommet that goes into the tank.I understand now why the previous owner used a garden hose.
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Post by onlyhomelites on Mar 16, 2018 22:40:37 GMT -5
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Post by Deleted on Mar 17, 2018 0:11:44 GMT -5
Yeah Leon,after I made my last post I realized that ther original line that was in there didn't require a grommet at the fuel tank because the hose fit tight enough & that's what the previous owner was sadly trying to do by using a 1/4 in.line.Unfortunately it didn't quite fit the bill.I read an old post here from back a few yrs.ago where a member used a 68046 grommet successfully.I don't remember what size Tygon line he used though (maybe 3/16?). When I was on your Store site I did see that line/grommet combo,but I didn't think it applied to the XL-101 because it wasn't listed with all the other saws.Maybe you should add the 101,102,103,& 104 to the list?Thanks,I'll be ordering. |
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Post by onlyhomelites on Mar 17, 2018 7:45:45 GMT -5
Yeah, when I originally put the kit together, I didn't have an early saw on hand to make sure that everything was the same, so I left those off and forgot to ever add them in. Thanks for the reminder!
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Post by Deleted on Mar 23, 2018 8:06:15 GMT -5
Update on my new 101 -the oil tank on this one leaks too.I believe that both of these 101's have gaskets in them for the oil tanks.I'd like to know what's involved with splitting the saws to put a new gasket in?  20180323_083404 by edju1958, on Flickr |
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Post by fossil on Mar 23, 2018 12:13:36 GMT -5
I don't think those tanks are screwed together. I believe they used some type of adhesive. I expect it would be just about impossible to get them apart without damaging them.
I have an XL-700 like that as well as a yellow 82cc saw. The yellow saw gas tank is leaking. I plan to pick up some Red Kote tank sealer next month to fix that one.
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Post by onlyhomelites on Mar 23, 2018 12:40:14 GMT -5
Ed can you take a picture of the oil tank from the muffler side? If there are visible screws, you have a later model that MAY come apart. If it's strictly a bonded tank, you'll have to go with a tank liner. For visible cracks over 1/16", you'll need to fill them first with some JB Weld or similar before proceeding to Red-Kote.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 23, 2018 14:28:05 GMT -5
I don't want to get ahead of myself here,but does the tank need to be completely dry & free of any oil residue?If so,how do I get the residue out?I have two 101's & they're both the same.I'll get some pics up before the end of the night.
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Post by fossil on Mar 23, 2018 15:46:59 GMT -5
Lacquer thinner cleans tanks really well as long as there isn't any paint on the inside. If you use it be careful not the get any thinner on the outside paint when pouring it in or out of the tank.
Using it on a tank that's painted on the inside can make quite a mess.
Whatever you use make sure all the gunk is out as well as any oil or gas.
Putting some hex nuts in the tank with the cleaner and giving the tank a bunch of shakes helps.
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