SEZAO Clutch

[Deleted]

I don't know much about clutches,how to take therm off, put them on,etc I bought a SEZ as a parts saw,but it's too good to use for parts.I need clutch parts,but I don't know exactly what I need.Here's a pic:

20180314_170238 by edju1958, on Flickr

[fossil]

You need a new "S" clutch. The threads are left hand so, clock wise to get it off. I use a modified socket to get them off. You will need to block the piston to get it off. Turn the clutch clockwise until you see the piston coming up though the spark plug hole. You need to make sure you get the piston just above the exhaust port. Feed a bunch of starter rope into the cylinder through the plug hole to jam the piston.

That will allow you to free the clutch. With "S" clutches, never pry on the shoe parts, only on the center member.

A special tool was made to remove clutches but not sure of they are available. onlyhomelites

[Deleted]

OK,I see right on the clutch it says which way to turn it,but I don't see any clutch shoes in there,& shouldn't there be some kind of cover on it?I have another SEZ that I think has a locked up or seized clutch.I know I've got to take that one apart too.Hands on,that's the way I like to learn.There's nothing like it.

[fossil]

The shoe is the part that has "OFF" on it. Sintered metal part. I don't know if they broke due to worn drums, being taken off incorrectly or maybe they just broke as the design was bad. I haven't broken one yet but I don't run my saws much.

I trust I didn't curse myself there.

[Deleted]

Mar 14, 2018 21:03:05 GMT -5 fossil said:

The shoe is the part that has "OFF" on it. Sintered metal part. I don't know if they broke due to worn drums, being taken off incorrectly or maybe they just broke as the design was bad. I haven't broken one yet but I don't run my saws much.

I trust I didn't curse myself there.

Lol
I'll say this - I have run my saws hard,but not as hard as some clowns do,& I've never broken a clutch in over 45 yrs.of cutting.I've worn them out,but never broken one.I don't think I've even broken a spring.(Now I probably cursed myself,Lol)

[onlyhomelites]

The clutch "shoes" are the two large pieces that contact the drum (or in your case, 1 piece!). I personally prefer to run the s-clutch over the later 3-shoe design. The Super EZ does use a 69915 cover and (2) 80361-2 screws. Those were likely removed and lost during the initial diagnosis of the saw.

When replacing this model of clutch, you have to be careful to get the right one, as there were 2-3 different designs offered. For the Super EZ, you need a 68362-1, 68362-3 or 68362-7. These versions have the proper crankshaft size; other versions do not.

There are aftermarket clutch tools on Ebay, but as oologahan noted a few months back, you've got to be careful as they are not as stout as the original Homelite: www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=homelite+68438&LH_PrefLoc=3&_ftrt=901&_sop=15&_dmd=1&_sofindtype=0&_osacat=0&_ipg=200&_ftrv=1&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xhomelite+23696.TRS0&_nkw=homelite+23696&_sacat=0

[Deleted]

Mar 14, 2018 21:39:01 GMT -5 onlyhomelites said:

The clutch "shoes" are the two large pieces that contact the drum (or in your case, 1 piece!). I personally prefer to run the s-clutch over the later 3-shoe design. The Super EZ does use a 69915 cover and (2) 80361-2 screws. Those were likely removed and lost during the initial diagnosis of the saw.

When replacing this model of clutch, you have to be careful to get the right one, as there were 2-3 different designs offered. For the Super EZ, you need a 68362-1, 68362-3 or 68362-7. These versions have the proper crankshaft size; other versions do not.

There are aftermarket clutch tools on Ebay, but as oologahan noted a few months back, you've got to be careful as they are not as stout as the original Homelite: www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=homelite+68438&LH_PrefLoc=3&_ftrt=901&_sop=15&_dmd=1&_sofindtype=0&_osacat=0&_ipg=200&_ftrv=1&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xhomelite+23696.TRS0&_nkw=homelite+23696&_sacat=0

OK Leon,in your professional opinion,which of the previous three clutch shoes that you mentioned do you prerfer?And would you have any of these in your store?I looked on the Bay earlier before I knew what I was even looking for just to get an idea,& they have squat.If you don't have any.maybe Joyce has them?

[undee70ss]

Mar 14, 2018 21:39:01 GMT -5 onlyhomelites said:

 I personally prefer to run the s-clutch over the later 3-shoe design.  

Can I ask why you prefer the "S" clutch over the 3 shoe design? 

[Deleted]

I think you misunderstood me Leon,which of these 3 do you prefer: 68362-1, 68362-3 or 68362-7?Also,is my drum still OK?

[undee70ss]

Mar 15, 2018 6:52:57 GMT -5 edju1958 said:

I think you misunderstood me Leon,which of these 3 do you prefer: 68362-1, 68362-3 or 68362-7?Also,is my drum still OK?

They are all the same. The number after the dash is the revision with 7 being the latest and greatest.

[Deleted]

OK,thanks for clearing that up Greg!

[onlyhomelites]

Greg I've found the S-clutch to be the most durable in terms of wear.

But I guess I should clarify that the 3-shoe design I'm talking about is the modern style with springs that run parallel to the shoes.


The old SXL style 3-spring clutches where the shoes and springs are perpendicular are pretty stout clutches.


Ed if you can't get what you need from Joyce, I have an S-clutch and two of the HD style clutches in stock that I built from NOS parts:

www.leonschainsawpartsandrepair.com/store/p7087/NOS_Homelite_Super_EZ%2C_150%2C_350_Chainsaw_Clutch_Assembly_67855-1%2C_65217%2C_65892.html

www.leonschainsawpartsandrepair.com/store/p7168/NOS_Homelite_150%2C_Super_EZ_Automatic_Chainsaw_Clutch_68362-7.html[/a]

[onlyhomelites]

For the record, 3 shoe style clutch I dislike the most were never used on the Super EZ...the shoes with linings adhered to the shoe are the least durable of anything I've seen on a Homelite. The 360/410 clutch shoe is a real pain in the ass when it comes to constantly losing the linings.

[undee70ss]

Mar 14, 2018 21:17:05 GMT -5 edju1958 said:

Mar 14, 2018 21:03:05 GMT -5 fossil said:

Lol
I'll say this - I have run my saws hard,but not as hard as some clowns do,& I've never broken a clutch in over 45 yrs.of cutting.I've worn them out,but never broken one.I don't think I've even broken a spring.(Now I probably cursed myself,Lol)

On Super EZ’s the clutches were known to break sometimes under certain conditions. See pic.

[Deleted]

Thanks Greg,I'll have to be careful when using those two saws.

[onlyhomelites]

Interesting, I'm having trouble understanding why high speeds would cause the breakage. I'm wondering if the clutches in question were worn down quite a bit, causing too much flex?

[Clasec]

Might be caused by high speed where the clutch is locked to the drum then the operator undercuts the limb using the top of the bar gets to close to the kick back point and it forces the bar up and stalls it for an instant which would twist the clutch as the flywheel and crankshaft  continue to rotate. 

[sweepleader]

I was wondering about that high speed conclusion too. My thoughts were a bit of a combination of the above suggestions. I thought that with "some" low speed, low power wear, the shoes would be out of shape due to being suspended on one end and slippage. The toe of the shoe would wear more than the heel were it is connected to the spreader and the crank. When it was run at high speed (read max power) it would tend to rock a bit on the high spot created by the toe wear. That would put a twist on the connection to the spreader bar. This would be severe with a high speed jam of the chain. The twist would be in line with the axis of the crank. Breakage could be the result.

It would be really interesting to look closely at the wear face of the clutch shoe in relation to the drum, are the curves the same or is the curve on the shoe tighter, a smaller diameter? All this really doesn't matter as we are not redesigning a replacement, but it is fun to guess.

I wonder too why they designed the connector with the thinnest spot right next to the shoe, where it broke. Why not have that whole long connector portion the same thickness? Then it would spread out the bending over a much larger area, reducing the stress. Another question that will need a time machine to answer.

[Deleted]

I wonder if that's what happened to the clutch on my saw?

[Deleted]

Ed if you can't get what you need from Joyce, I have an S-clutch and two of the HD style clutches in stock that I built from NOS parts:

Leon,what would you allow me for a trade in on my half clutch?Lol