dynodave
Saw Builder
equal opportunity GEARHEAD
Posts: 246
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Post by dynodave on Feb 23, 2018 7:31:27 GMT -5
On AS the recent thread about a non starting XL evolved into correct spark plug ID. DJ7J regular plug for the early saws like my 2. fine...except when I checked they were both DJ8J, well I guess I'll have to buy some new plugs  Champion Spark Plug DJ7J $2.81 SKU: #Stens 130-099 Then today I find an IPL UT10719 for my later (plastic) 200 Classic. Thanks Leon. Well this bad boy lists DJ7Y. Didn't have to post there on AS as it was unrelated, but I found it interesting anyway. No further comment warranted for me... However I did see that this 200 has a primer bulb on the fuel tank cap... yet it was not shown on the IPL. It is something that needs to be renewed... must be E-10 disease? added fwiw: 73 147psi 77 135psi 200 125psi |
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Post by onlyhomelites on Feb 23, 2018 8:38:30 GMT -5
This IPL cover's all revisions to your ut# and it does show the primer cap: www.leonschainsawpartsandrepair.com/uploads/3/9/7/9/39792537/homelite_180_192_200_little_red_super_2_super_2_sl_xl_chainsaw_ipl_18866.pdfEvidently it was repaired at some point with parts from a later version. Does your engine housing have any kind of hole on the upper drivecase side? Those primer caps can be found on Ebay (super expensive), but they can also be repaired in your shop with a little careful work. You need to source a bulb with the proper base width (for some reason I'm remembering 18mm, but it has been a while), carefully pry the retainer ring off, set the new bulb in and use a couple dabs of super glue to hold the ring back on. The design actually sucks, as you have to twist the hose up as you screw on the cap and when the hose falls off (it does from time to time), then you have a lean running situation. If I was using one on a regular basis, I'd eliminate the primer all together by plugging the hose in the fuel tank and using a standard fuel cap. Just my 2-cents! |
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Post by undee70ss on Feb 23, 2018 8:51:01 GMT -5
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dynodave
Saw Builder
equal opportunity GEARHEAD
Posts: 246
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Post by dynodave on Feb 23, 2018 10:35:12 GMT -5
onlyhomelites
Thanks for the correct IPL listing. I would be inclined to plug the line at the carb, put a duck bill vent in the tank hole, and get a regular cap. Do you have any plain caps 97230A external tank threads 97359 looks OK too 97228 red? 2018 calendar?
undee70ss
I know it was you who posted on AS, which I did not want to "stir the pot".
I wonder if the lower compression 200 is routine and the reason for the Y extended tip to insure that it gets enough heat to stay clean?
Not sure why both early saws had the DJ8J...I never looked at the exact # though I looked at the plugs generally.
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Post by onlyhomelites on Feb 23, 2018 15:38:57 GMT -5
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dynodave
Saw Builder
equal opportunity GEARHEAD
Posts: 246
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Post by dynodave on Feb 24, 2018 7:16:18 GMT -5
Order placed...
I saw on ebay that aftermarket repop caps are sold. They don't have the oem number on the inside.
On AS, another issue was brought up about the choke lever hanging up causing starting trouble.
I'll offer my comment here for HOH also:
I have never seen a written procedure to properly put in the black carb cover and was often annoyed on the difficulty of putting it in. This may be contributing to the choke lever dragging and causing the problem you encountered. I believe they made at least 3 versions of the carb cover and they were not perfect...or the same
So, to easily and reliably put the choke on you need to properly fit the carb cover. They are just a crude molded black plastic/vinyl piece and does not always fit properly with out trimming it and knowing how to put it in. You have to realize the XL (single throttle) and XL2 (dual throttle) were actually different castings and there certainly had to be a bit of manufacturing variation. Then consider more variation for the plastic versions of saw.
Blue printing the carb cover to your case only takes a few minutes and will make the saw much easier to maintain.
To put it in... without bending it all up... you need to pull the starter cover off (and handle bar). that allows the two tanks to rock outward a bit. The cover then fits in position easily...IF it is sized correctly it will fit in position without any strain or forcing
1. The front edge must fit easily inboard of the magnesium housing. Trim this edge to suit.
2. The top edge must also fit inside of the mag case. Trim so it fits without significant force needed
3. Put starter cover on...cover should fit well in the aperture now. The bottom lip is sitting on top of the mag case and tank bosses. The rear lip sits on top of the mag case.
4. Swing the choke lever up and if it touches the plastic cover (usually on the front edge) an exacto blade will work well to trim for proper clearance for the full lever arc/swing.
That's what I did...now it start easy and reliably. As long as you keep the E-10 out
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Post by sawnami on Feb 24, 2018 20:26:49 GMT -5
Wonder what they'd say about the plug in my "Angry Mosquito" XL2? 😁  |
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Post by sweepleader on Feb 24, 2018 20:36:58 GMT -5
Autolite, cool. Is that an XST? I used to be able to get them at a local box store, the last ones, XST254, I bought off the bay. I guess they have been discontinued...
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Post by sawnami on Feb 24, 2018 21:45:16 GMT -5
Autolite, cool. Is that an XST? I used to be able to get them at a local box store, the last ones, XST254, I bought off the bay. I guess they have been discontinued... Yes, it's an XST but there's something else about it. 😉 |
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Post by 5terrysupersaws on Feb 24, 2018 21:54:23 GMT -5
I notice it's not a tapered seat style spark plug ,also like the 'stinger' on your "angry mosquito"!!
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Post by sawnami on Feb 24, 2018 22:36:04 GMT -5
I notice it's not a tapered seat style spark plug ,also like the 'stinger' on your "angry mosquito"!! Thanks! You got it on the plug! |
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