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Post by mattallica on Jan 1, 2009 19:26:20 GMT -5
ok so I absolutely suck at sharpening!!!
I thought I was doing the right thing by hand...but Holy butter knives!!!
whats the best manually operated sharpening system?
and where do you find the best deals on one?
I dont want a powered set up right now...I need to use this on the tailgate while I'm working in the field.
I'm assuming a bar mounted jig is the best way to go....any input?
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Post by billg on Jan 2, 2009 3:27:50 GMT -5
I just hand file by eye but I woulkd really like to try the bench mount Stihl file system. I have Windsor grinder for round ground and a Silvey for square but I do not use them.
Bill
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Post by mattallica on Jan 2, 2009 19:51:30 GMT -5
yeah...I agree with ya oldzip...my Partner S65 came with 3 extra chains...the one on it cut awesome until I sharpened it the last time..I switched it out with one of the others that came with it,thats even worse.....so I bought 2 new chains...and I'll have my buddy give me a lesson in sharpening soon for the used ones etc,..
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Post by woodburner44 on Jan 3, 2009 20:47:01 GMT -5
 I use a bar mounted file holder to sharpen chains in the shop and touch up freehand as needed while cutting. Always take at least three extra sharp chains for each saw for a full days work. Saves wasted trips back to the barn. My kit includes all the spare parts and tools necessary to keep the saws going. I hate to get started on a job and have to quit just because I rocked a chain or broke a starter spring or rope... 
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Post by bruce hopf on Jan 7, 2009 14:59:10 GMT -5
I Used to use A Filing Guide from Oregon, that Clamps onto the Guide Bar. I used it for a lot of Years. I even tried to Free Hand File my Chain in the Field only Once without great Success.
I wanted to get into Chain Saw Service, here at home, so I Bought myself a tecomec FL 136 Chain Saw Grinding Machine.
I only use the Filing Guide, and a File, to determine the Height of the Rakers, File one down to desired Height, and set the Grinding Machine, to do the rest of the Rakers. Every Cutter Tooth is the Same, as the Next. Same Degree, Same Pitch. Sharpend Just as good, if not better than the Factory. But you have to know what you are doing, otherwise, you will get the Cutter Face too Hot. I learned that with Practicing on a few Chains that didn't fit any of my Chain Saws. Bruce.
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Post by chainsawwhisperer on Feb 2, 2009 10:14:46 GMT -5
I just ordered some Save Edge flat and goofy files. I'm going to give square filing a try. I am pretty excited to try it!
Any of you guys have advice on getting started square filing.
I know there is a big learning curve, a week from now I'll probably
be crabbing about how none of my S/F chains will cut worth a darn. Even so, I'm still excited! CSW
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Post by woodplayer on Feb 2, 2009 20:41:04 GMT -5
CSW, I highly recommend purchasing square ground chain first and practice sharpening a few cutters on it. If you have never done it before I can't really see any other method of learning the angles. Use a marker to mark the cutter filed area, and gently file so that all the marker is removed evenly. You must align the file properly into the outside corner of the cutter to start. I had modified one of the oregon clamp on bar filers to accept a flat (beveled) file. It works pretty well once you find the proper angle set up. Be patient, it took me hours to figure out and when I do a chain again it will take some time to set up again. img530.imageshack.us/my.php?image=hpim0785ajd6.jpgI have some photos of my chain and chain form others that is square filed. Let me know if you want them posted, or please post photos of your attempts and I can try helping out. good luck |
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Post by chainsawwhisperer on Feb 3, 2009 13:22:19 GMT -5
I ordered 2 new chains the other day, unfortunatly I ordered carlton round ground full chisel, not something square ground full chisel. Is Stihl - RSLK, or Oregon - 72CL what I want?
I don't think that Carlton or GB make it.
Zip, would you want to sell me a 1/4" file? I need one for the D/B.
CSW
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Post by lesorubcheek on Feb 3, 2009 13:27:13 GMT -5
Count me in too there Oldzip. If you're interested in selling some, I'd like to buy a couple from you. If you're interested, just send me a PM.
On the subject of sharpening, I have an older oregon hand sharpener that works pretty well. Bought a newer unit that looks just like the file-n-joint, but the Oregon seems smoother to operate.
I'll confess that lately I started using the Northern bench grinder a bit more. These really are a great deal for a powered bench grinder and with the few mods (thanks again Eric!) that are discussed over on AS, they are a nice working machine. Can't compare it with a real 511, but I think they do a pretty good job.
Dan
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Post by woodplayer on Feb 3, 2009 18:42:47 GMT -5
Yes CSW, either Stihl -RSKL or Oregon CL.
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Post by chainsawwhisperer on Feb 3, 2009 21:08:22 GMT -5
Thanks Woody! Who else makes square ground?
Do any of you guys have a square grinder?
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Post by redsqwrl on Feb 4, 2009 21:40:07 GMT -5
Hey Zip here is what I know.....
I just looked up some wheels for a windsor grinder.
"My cousin borrowed me a grinder (that is If replace the wheel ) that needs a wheel."
I found that at the bailey site they sell three wheels.
one for 1/2.
one for 404 and tall 375.
and one for normal 375 and 325 and 1/4.
all the wheels were 5 3/4 in dia.
I am going to try to find a wheel locally tomorrow (thursday) first then most likey spend next week destroying sections of chain learning...... I am a free hand filer that occasionally uses one of those (ph)Ferd raker and file combo units to get back on track.
Also most of the grinder folks here use a smaller grinder to do their Square stuff. I am not ready to bit into square yet.
Mike learnin as I go.
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Post by lesorubcheek on Feb 5, 2009 10:31:48 GMT -5
Yea, all I've heard of is 3/8 and 3/8 LP or Low Profile. My Northern indicates to use a 3/16" wheel for .404 and 3/8, and a 1/8" wheel for .325 and 3/8 Low Profile. I've sharpened all with recommended sizes, except .325 haven't tried yet, and it seems right.
Dan
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Post by redsqwrl on Feb 5, 2009 12:44:08 GMT -5
Hey Zip, Dan stated it better. I never knew there was a difference so it became tall and short.
Dan stated it better with normal and low.
Mike
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Post by chainsawwhisperer on Feb 6, 2009 13:26:23 GMT -5
Zip, I've heard that you can run 3/8lp on a regular 3/8 sprocket and bar, but not the other way around because of the height of the drive links. I don't remember if it was a sprocket tip or solid.
As far as the front sprockets not fitting from one chain to another, I don't know I've never tryed. I'll give it a whirl this weekend.
CSW
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Post by mattallica on Feb 7, 2009 21:33:41 GMT -5
A Tool song for one.....something to do with the theory of the evolutionary process...wikipedia will tell you. |
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Post by MCS on Feb 7, 2009 22:33:55 GMT -5
For you guys that have the grinders, can these do 1/2" chain? Are there different setups for different chains, like 3/8 vs 325 or 404 etc? How does that work? I have the Oregon 511 grinder that takes 5 5/8" wheels that are available in 1/8, 3/16, 1/4, and 5/16" The wheels have to be dresses to match the cutter. Since I use mostly chipper chain, my wheels are just rounded to a 'U' shape. One wheel has to be dressed flat to touch up the raker. The 5/16" is for the BIG chain. The 1/4" is used for 1/2"chain and rakers, the 3/16" is for 3/8 and .404. and the 1/8" is for the 1/4", .325, and low profile. The head angle and chain tilt are adjustable to what ever is needed. You can do just about anything you want to do to the cutting edge. |
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Post by chainsawwhisperer on Feb 8, 2009 9:35:51 GMT -5
A Tool song for one.....something to do with the theory of the evolutionary process...wikipedia will tell you. It is the number of chromosomes & the two sex chromosomes It's supposedly the next step in chromosomal evolution, as theorized by Karl Jung 42&2 = some Aborigines tribes, and some tribes in Africa. 44&2 = the common human 46&2 = the next step "Those two extra chromosomes make all the difference" (unknown) Just a wacky theory. CSW |
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Post by MCS on Feb 8, 2009 20:30:11 GMT -5
The big chain being 3/4" harvester. The 1/4" files should work fine for the 9/16" chain on the LCS. Just pretend it's 1/2"
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Post by mattallica on Feb 11, 2009 15:59:46 GMT -5
Ok so on a similar but slightly different note.
If the chain cuts to the right consistently,when starting out straight..it comes out the bottom of the logabout 3-4" to the right on an 18" diameter piece of oak,...which set of teeth need to be adjusted?
I was told to always use the same number of file strokes on each tooth.
Find the dullest tooth ...if it takes 6 passes....then they all get six passes.
I cheated on my new Dolmar chain...and now its cutting as described above.
If I go back to the equal passes, it would seem to change nothing in theory?!?
If it cuts right, is it the left teeth that need more filing?
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I use a bar mounted file holder to sharpen chains in the shop and touch up freehand as needed while cutting. Always take at least three extra sharp chains for each saw for a full days work. Saves wasted trips back to the barn. My kit includes all the spare parts and tools necessary to keep the saws going. I hate to get started on a job and have to quit just because I rocked a chain or broke a starter spring or rope... 
