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Post by Deleted on Jan 17, 2018 13:20:45 GMT -5
I'm going to use Tygon and one of Leon's grommets fro the lane from the letal tube to the inside of the tank, but I bought a 8 dollar oEM line to go from the metal tube to the carb. There is no way this is going to fit inside the carb box hole or over the carb inlet because it seems that the inside of this hose is rigid plastic and not rubber (possibly to prevent decay), With me being down to one hand its not going to be possible for me to "muscle" it on either even with heat and lube (sounds kinky). I think I need a thinner walled 3/16" ID hose  20180117_120755 by Al Michaels, on Flickr  20180117_120727 by Al Michaels, on Flickr  20180117_120709 by Al Michaels, on Flickr |
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Post by sweepleader on Jan 17, 2018 14:18:36 GMT -5
I would be inclined to see if the carb end would fit on the carb, if it does, then I would be also inclined to shave the OD to fit the carb box hole. Once that was accomplished, I would install the hose, then reinstall the carb. That would get the process down to what was actually do-able, one step at a time. Too many steps at once seems to me to be the bane of chainsaw work, especially when it comes to carbs. Of course, the linkages, mix needles and gaskets would still have to be hassled at the same time as the fuel line...
Also of course, grinding and hacking on the purchased fuel line would void its warranty, but I always figure that to be the first step in any project, void the warranty.
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Post by Clasec on Jan 17, 2018 15:04:00 GMT -5
You might try PB Blaster on the rubber hose. It makes it slick and also easier to remove.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 17, 2018 18:04:21 GMT -5
Is there any reason I can't use a thinner wall Tygon that will go through the airbox and stretch over the carb inlet?
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Post by Clasec on Jan 17, 2018 18:46:46 GMT -5
It would be okay as long as the airbox is sealed where it enters.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 17, 2018 21:14:35 GMT -5
It would be okay as long as the airbox is sealed where it enters. That's what I'm going to do, use Tygon and seal the box with a dab of silicone. I cant see tearing the saw apart to put the hose on until I'm into to it for something big. |
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Post by Deleted on Jan 18, 2018 22:49:18 GMT -5
It would be okay as long as the airbox is sealed where it enters. I used a 3/16" ID by 5/16" OD Tygon. I had to cut one end of the Tygon on a angle and pull the line through the airbox with a set of pliers, and it was not easy to pull it through. I don't believe there is any way air will get through, it was tough and it won't budge unless you pull it with pliers. Do you think I'm okay? |
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Post by onlyhomelites on Jan 18, 2018 23:34:31 GMT -5
Absolutely will be air tight! Does it look like the hose pinched too much?
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Post by Deleted on Jan 18, 2018 23:47:37 GMT -5
Absolutely will be air tight! Does it look like the hose pinched too much? nope it isn't pinched inside, but the hose is just a tad bigger than air box bulkhead hole. Thanks |
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Post by Deleted on Jan 19, 2018 20:07:48 GMT -5
Absolutely will be air tight! Does it look like the hose pinched too much? nope it isn't pinched inside, but the hose is just a tad bigger than air box bulkhead hole. Thanks The fuel line grommet Leon sent worked like a charm and I have new Tygon line in the tank and from the tank to the carb. There is one nick on the bar, and the air filter cover has a few chips out of it, but getting a saw like this for 200 delivered is a great deal to me, considering 50 was shipping.  20180119_183024 by Al Michaels, on Flickr  20180119_183037 by Al Michaels, on Flickr  20180119_183130 by Al Michaels, on Flickr  20180119_183059 by Al Michaels, on Flickr |
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Post by Deleted on Jan 19, 2018 21:44:13 GMT -5
Are those power bar tips like mine with the nick still available?
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Post by onlyhomelites on Jan 19, 2018 22:21:21 GMT -5
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Post by Deleted on Jan 19, 2018 22:32:32 GMT -5
How are the installed? Thanks |
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Post by Clasec on Jan 20, 2018 0:04:43 GMT -5
Drill out the rivets that hold the tip to the bar and remove the tip. Insert the new tip and install the new rivets and peen them down.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 20, 2018 0:27:33 GMT -5
Drill out the rivets that hold the tip to the bar and remove the tip. Insert the new tip and install the new rivets and peen them down. Thanks a bunch, I was worried they might be pressed in. I have a small ball peen hammer |
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Post by onlyhomelites on Jan 20, 2018 8:37:30 GMT -5
The factory probably did use a press, but peening them is just as effective...just not as quick. If a person has a bench mounted chain break, you can also use this to "cut" the head off the old rivet, if you go slow.
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